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Axe-Fx III Firmware Version 2.05

FractalAudio

Administrator
Fractal Audio Systems
Moderator
Thanks.

Delay comp was at 0. I tried all other settings and the results didn't change. Any time I had mic + di selected this happened. Using just the mic worked as expected.
I've tested this in every possible way I can think of and it works fine here.

[EDIT] Now it's acting funny. Not sure what I did but the Reverse Filter mode is not working. It was working then I twiddles some knobs and it stopped. For now use the Conventional deconvolution mode.[/EDIT]
 
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Satch4u3

Experienced
Since loading 2.05, anyone else now getting text(regarding loading "this" and "that". Can't recall that it says exactly.) that appears on screen when you first turn on the Axe Fx 3? It's before the splash load screen. Possibly normal but I have not seen anyone mention it.
 

dpeterson

Fractal Fanatic
Since loading 2.05, anyone else now getting text(regarding loading "this" and "that". Can't recall that it says exactly.) that appears on screen when you first turn on the Axe Fx 3? It's before the splash load screen. Possibly normal but I have not seen anyone mention it.
diagnostic was added to help troubleshoot.
 

peteri

Inspired
Since loading 2.05, anyone else now getting text(regarding loading "this" and "that". Can't recall that it says exactly.) that appears on screen when you first turn on the Axe Fx 3? It's before the splash load screen. Possibly normal but I have not seen anyone mention it.
yes, that's normal - Clive mentioned it in the first post on this thread
 

fractalz

Experienced
The meters on the front of the Axe-Fx are relative to full-scale. They are not calibrated in dBu. They are to assist you so that you don't clip the converters.
Again, I don't understand why the front-panel output meters display different levels when the physical outputs are generating *identical* levels.

At this point, I'm ready to throw in the towel. I'm frustrated that I don't understand the Output 1 metering scheme, but in the end a) I have other ways to meter b) the unit sounds and functions great c) no one else seems to have the same confusion.

From a user standpoint, I view the additional gain on Output 1 coming from the knob. That is, at some point about mid-way, I view the knob as being neutral (0dB gain) and getting the ~20dB of extra gain at full clockwise rotation. In that case, the internal levels should match Out1/Out4 as the gain hasn't yet been applied.

I think you are viewing it as 0dB of reduction at full clockwise and boosting the meters 20dB to pre-compensate for the pre-knob gain boost. Both are valid, but IMHO, the latter is confusing for the reasons I've demonstrated above.

And now, back to playing guitar...
 

FractalAudio

Administrator
Fractal Audio Systems
Moderator
Again, I don't understand why the front-panel output meters display different levels when the physical outputs are generating *identical* levels.

At this point, I'm ready to throw in the towel. I'm frustrated that I don't understand the Output 1 metering scheme, but in the end a) I have other ways to meter b) the unit sounds and functions great c) no one else seems to have the same confusion.

From a user standpoint, I view the additional gain on Output 1 coming from the knob. That is, at some point about mid-way, I view the knob as being neutral (0dB gain) and getting the ~20dB of extra gain at full clockwise rotation. In that case, the internal levels should match Out1/Out4 as the gain hasn't yet been applied.

I think you are viewing it as 0dB of reduction at full clockwise and boosting the meters 20dB to pre-compensate for the pre-knob gain boost. Both are valid, but IMHO, the latter is confusing for the reasons I've demonstrated above.

And now, back to playing guitar...
The front panel meters indicate the level INTO the D/A converters. The only place the system can clip is at the converters so the meters let you know when you are in danger of clipping the converters.

There is nothing about "20 dB" anywhere in association with anything. Abandon that concept. A signal is generated internally. That signal can be any value from 0 (negative infinity dB) to a thousand dB, in theory. That signal is then multiplied by the "gain" of the output level knob (0 to 1). The knobs have an audio taper but that's irrelevant. If, after applying that gain, the signal exceeds 1.0 the converters will clip and red LEDs on the meters will light.

If you think about the meters as level into the converters it all makes sense because that's what it is. To further demonstrate this increase the Boost/Pad setting for Output 3/4 and watch what happens.

The output meters are the analog of the input meters. They indicate converter levels. Nothing more, nothing less. And what they do is extremely important and convenient.
 

PKasaty

New Member
The front panel meters indicate the level INTO the D/A converters. The only place the system can clip is at the converters so the meters let you know when you are in danger of clipping the converters.

There is nothing about "20 dB" anywhere in association with anything. Abandon that concept. A signal is generated internally. That signal can be any value from 0 (negative infinity dB) to a thousand dB, in theory. That signal is then multiplied by the "gain" of the output level knob (0 to 1). The knobs have an audio taper but that's irrelevant. If, after applying that gain, the signal exceeds 1.0 the converters will clip and red LEDs on the meters will light.

If you think about the meters as level into the converters it all makes sense because that's what it is. To further demonstrate this increase the Boost/Pad setting for Output 3/4 and watch what happens.

The output meters are the analog of the input meters. They indicate converter levels. Nothing more, nothing less. And what they do is extremely important and convenient.
This is perfect for me. On the Axe FX, my main concern isn't exact dB coming out of the unit, but whether it's a "healthy" level heading into the D/A converters (good signal-to-noise, no clipping). In my use-case, it's a great feature. Thank you!
 

fractalz

Experienced
The front panel meters indicate the level INTO the D/A converters. The only place the system can clip is at the converters so the meters let you know when you are in danger of clipping the converters.

There is nothing about "20 dB" anywhere in association with anything. Abandon that concept. A signal is generated internally. That signal can be any value from 0 (negative infinity dB) to a thousand dB, in theory. That signal is then multiplied by the "gain" of the output level knob (0 to 1). The knobs have an audio taper but that's irrelevant. If, after applying that gain, the signal exceeds 1.0 the converters will clip and red LEDs on the meters will light.

If you think about the meters as level into the converters it all makes sense because that's what it is. To further demonstrate this increase the Boost/Pad setting for Output 3/4 and watch what happens.

The output meters are the analog of the input meters. They indicate converter levels. Nothing more, nothing less. And what they do is extremely important and convenient.
So, if I add 18dB boost/pad to Out4, both the block and hardware meters increase and start to look very similar to the Out1 meters. Without the boost/pad on Out4, the Out1 meters read consistently ~20dB lower than Out4. So, there must be an intrisic boost/pad on Out1 (which matches your "out1 has different gain staging" comments and is where my "~20dB gain" comment comes from). The Out4 meter is now reading 18dB more than I see at the DAW which makes it apparent that it is not metering the hardware output but rather the converters (as you say).

So, this is starting to make sense if I think of the meters (block and hardware) as being at the converter and Out1 having an intrinsic boost/pad.

I only really care about this because I want Out1 and Out4 to *output* the same level so I can, for example, run amp+cab+reverb -> Out1 and amp+cab->Out4 in case I want to replace the reverb later. I want these tracks to be interchangeable in the DAW, so they need to come in at the same level. And, of course, I don't want either path to clip. In this case, the Axe metering doesn't help me balance the output levels so I have to use the DAW.
 

FractalAudio

Administrator
Fractal Audio Systems
Moderator
So, if I add 18dB boost/pad to Out4, both the block and hardware meters increase and start to look very similar to the Out1 meters. Without the boost/pad on Out4, the Out1 meters read consistently ~20dB lower than Out4. So, there must be an intrisic boost/pad on Out1 (which matches your "out1 has different gain staging" comments and is where my "~20dB gain" comment comes from). The Out4 meter is now reading 18dB more than I see at the DAW which makes it apparent that it is not metering the hardware output but rather the converters (as you say).

So, this is starting to make sense if I think of the meters (block and hardware) as being at the converter and Out1 having an intrinsic boost/pad.

I only really care about this because I want Out1 and Out4 to *output* the same level so I can, for example, run amp+cab+reverb -> Out1 and amp+cab->Out4 in case I want to replace the reverb later. I want these tracks to be interchangeable in the DAW, so they need to come in at the same level. And, of course, I don't want either path to clip. In this case, the Axe metering doesn't help me balance the output levels so I have to use the DAW.
Why not use Output 2?
 

fractalz

Experienced
Why not use Output 2?
Instead of Out1?

I could, but I have two Axe IIIs - one in the studio and one for live. I'm hoping not to have to re-develop my patches for re-amp v. live use. So, I want consistent output levels whether I'm going out 1,2,3 or 4. I know, high-class problems...
 

PKasaty

New Member
Instead of Out1?

I could, but I have two Axe IIIs - one in the studio and one for live. I'm hoping not to have to re-develop my patches for re-amp v. live use. So, I want consistent output levels whether I'm going out 1,2,3 or 4. I know, high-class problems...
I'm newish to the Axe platform, so forgive me if this wouldn't work. Building on the "Why not use Output 2" comment, if you aren't using all four outputs, it looks to me like the "Output X Copy Output 1" option might be a good solution. Or you could ditch output 1 all together, depending on what you are connecting to live, etc. Just a few thoughts... like I said, I'm new so take it easy on me if that wouldn't work.
 

fractalz

Experienced
I'm newish to the Axe platform, so forgive me if this wouldn't work. Building on the "Why not use Output 2" comment, if you aren't using all four outputs, it looks to me like the "Output X Copy Output 1" option might be a good solution. Or you could ditch output 1 all together, depending on what you are connecting to live, etc. Just a few thoughts... like I said, I'm new so take it easy on me if that wouldn't work.
Ideally in the studio I’ll be running 4 stereo pairs through the Axe using all inputs/outputs. The FX are great and the UI is much more friendly than the H9000 sitting next to the Axe
 

selta

Power User
@FractalAudio , et. al. -- as a bass player, and one who has been (overly?) vocal about the lack of new shiny stuff for us lowend folks in Fractal products, I want to say a big thank you for the updated SVT model and the PortaFlex. I don't yet own a III so I can't take advantage of them, but, hopefully sooner than later that changes. I did want to give credit where due and thank you for the update :)
 

bradlake

Axe-Master
Ideally in the studio I’ll be running 4 stereo pairs through the Axe using all inputs/outputs. The FX are great and the UI is much more friendly than the H9000 sitting next to the Axe
.............Eventide never got their shit together on the H-series as far as ease of use (I have an 8000) and Cliff’s III algorithms have much more girth and length, from what I’ve heard..................
 

fractalz

Experienced
.............Eventide never got their shit together on the H-series as far as ease of use (I have an 8000) and Cliff’s III algorithms have much more girth and length, from what I’ve heard..................
Agreed. However, the H has a boatload of presets and I’ll end up using those old favorites from time to time until I build up a library of 3sets.

They’ve added all the H9 presets in the 9000 so there is a lot to start from.
 

sskkmm

Experienced
Ideally in the studio I’ll be running 4 stereo pairs through the Axe using all inputs/outputs. The FX are great and the UI is much more friendly than the H9000 sitting next to the Axe
.............Eventide never got their shit together on the H-series as far as ease of use (I have an 8000) and Cliff’s III algorithms have much more girth and length, from what I’ve heard..................

Sheesh guys I will gladly pay for shipping if you want to get rid of those awful eventide boxes... :p
(had an orville and eclipse back in the day..good times, good times).
 
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