MIDI output voltage: WIDI Master is getting hot

It's especially surprising that Fractal set this up differently for the FM3, given that the circuit appears to work correctly on the Ax-FX iii.

From what I've seen, this, combined with a few reports of somewhat delicate USB connectors are the two design flaws that have effected some users.
 
Hi! I would then like to share a solution to the problem described above. Today I tested Roland WM1. And yes, it doesn't get warm, which is what I suspected, since it is powered by its own voltage. AAA battery. According to the manufacturer, the operating time lasts for about 60 hours and when the battery is weak, the light comes on first. So that you can exchange it in time. For me it is a better and more elegant solution before you start tinkering and that with a 1500 euro device. The size is same as Yamaha BT01. The function is ok. In this sense a problem for me was solved. I wish everyone a nice Saturday evening.

Greetings from Lahr/Black Forest
 
Thx for the tip/workaround.

Even though the odds of someone damaging their midi device or FM3 are fairly low, FAS should publish a warning about their risky departure from the spec.

If I was a user of such a midi device, I would appreciate it if FAS provided an adaptor with an inline resistor at cost.

I'd have no trouble making one, but it would probably look pretty lumpy.
 
I'm using WIDI Jack units between my AxeFX III and a RJM Mastermind GT16. Both units are running at room temperature, even after a full day (10+ hours) of tech rehearsals.
 
I can imagine a scenario where a device draws too much current, but it is not noticed. So either the device gets immediately damaged, or has a shortened life span. It is also possible that it might damage the FM3. This is why I'm suggesting a little heads-up from FAS.
 
It's a great device! Used it on many shows without any problems. I highly recommend it (if you can solder your custom adapter ...)
 
laxu said:
At least the WIDI Master gets hot very quickly after plugging it into the FM3. Of course it's possible the Yamaha dongle is just designed differently so it's harder to feel the heat on the plastic.

So far the adapter I've made has worked great. If someone is looking to build one I would advice getting as small MIDI connectors as you can get to keep it compact. I used standard size ones meant for cables and they are bit bigger than I'd like but my local electronics vendor did not offer anything else.

Another option that would work even better is that instead of the WIDI Master you buy the WIDI Jack. It can be powered via USB or via MIDI out port but uses short cables so you could instead build a custom MIDI -> 3.5mm (or 2.5mm, not sure) cable with the resistor in place. Would most likely look cleaner than the WIDI Master + adapter.
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I like this idea. I have a WIDI JACK heating up when powered from my FM3 MIDI OUT....so the cable hack with 220 Ohm resistor is the solution I'm considering.
 
So my solution was to split one of the cables that comes with the Widi Jack put a 220 R resistor on both Pin 4 and Pin 5. Then I put the whole lot into a little switch that I stole of some Christmas lights.

Now I can turn on and off the Widi without having to unplug the MIDI socket every time.
 

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I think this only applies to devices that draw power. I couldn't find out whether the MIDI IN is spec'ed to provide power. I saw one reference that made it sound like only OUT & THRU have power.

I also saw on a MIDI Solutions page a reference to a change where the original MIDI spec was 5V, and more recently it changed to "allow" a lower voltage of 3.3V. This also presents another problem, as a device designed for the newer 3.3V spec could get hit with the older 5V. Seems like a risky choice. Feels like we're floundering here.
 
oh boy, this mess is what the original MIDI standard tried to avoid by defining the physical layer as a 5mA current loop. This eliminates the voltage level discussion and addresses cable length issues to some extent. Unfortunately practically all manufactures chose to simplify their designs and replaced the current loop by a voltage source plus matching resistor.
 
NHD said:
Just tries the Yamaha MD BT01 on the FM3, unfortunately it heats up immediately after pluging in..
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I've been using the Yamaha MD BT01 since I got the FM3. I've had the FM3 with the BT01 on for about 6hrs today and the BT01 is way cooler than the back panel of the FM3. Hasn't been working hard but it's been on.
 
I realise this is an old thread, i've been looking into getting some kind of wireless midi setup for my Morningstar MC8 into the FM3
very simple : Midi OUT of MC8 into Midi IN of FM3

as a potential work around
i take it if i use a Widi JACK on the FM3 Midi IN (powered by a USB-USB-C adaptor) i wouldn't run into the issues mentioned here on the Midi Out jack ?
i'd prefer to have two Widi Masters as it's cleaner , but my soldering skills are horrendous =)
 
forgot to add barring that the Midi IN also provides power like the Midi OUT jack and would need a custom midi cable/resistor regardless

thanks
 
university81 said:
forgot to add barring that the Midi IN also provides power like the Midi OUT jack and would need a custom midi cable/resistor regardless

thanks
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The Widi Jack solution should work fine.
(I haven't tested it, but everything i've read indicates it will work.)

Midi IN should not supply any power
 
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