MIDI output voltage: WIDI Master is getting hot

Not sure about the rest of the FM3 schematic, but merely adding a 220 Ohm 1/4 Watt 5% resistor to pin 4 in the box would be simple if you can solder etc?

As to the warranty, that's a question for Fractal, though since they screwed up by not including a part that's in the official MIDI Spec, perhaps they'd make an exception for those who are having the issue and fix it themselves, or do the mod themselves and offer to swap out MIDI PCB's?

I'm not powering any MIDI gear via my FM3, so no issues for me.
 
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DJD100 said:
Not sure about the rest of the FM3 schematic, but merely adding a 220 Ohm 1/4 Watt 5% resistor to pin 4 in the box would be simple if you can solder etc?
Click to expand...
Maybe, but voiding your warranty and disassembling the FM3 to install the resistor in the first place would be a chore. Easier to just build a simple adapter which also helps take the CME WIDI Master further out so it isn't right against the power switch. It's a very tight fit normally.

I should have the parts in the mail so hopefully can assemble one tonight.
 
Ok so I got my adapter built according to @Ben Lewry 's diagram. Works fine now with CME WIDI Master and XSonic Airstep, wirelessly switching the FM3 and CME is staying cool as a cucumber!

Some mistakes were made and I ended up with just a bit too long wires so it doesn't look that great. The female MIDI jack I got was also totally shit quality for the housing but I expect it will work well enough.

I couldn't find a MIDI male to female adapter and think that would be the best option for building a neat looking version of this.
 
Hi guys, I made a little Hack to solve the FM3+WIDI Master overheating problem.
Here's the instructions...

The FM3 does not have current limiting resistors on the midi out jack.
The missing resistors can cause problems with devices that use the "Midi Out" to supply current, like wireless midi transmitters.
The CME WIDI Master transmitter will overheat without a current limiting resistor.

I made an adapter for the CME WIDI wireless transmitter that will overcome this problem by adding a 220ohm resistor inline with
the WIDI transmitter. This is specifically for use with the FM3. It is not needed for the AxeFX III and will not work with other devices.

The WIDI transmitter comes with both IN and OUT connectors.
Since I only use Midi to communicate in one direction, one of the Midi IN jacks is not being used.
This hack will repurpose the extra 5 pin connector, along with the correct 220ohm resistor, to power the WIDI correctly.
This also extends the length of the WIDI transmitter to allow more room to connect it next to the IEC main power cable.

First, remove the plastic casing and wires from the extra MIDI IN connector by heating it up with a heat gun.
The black outer plastic will begin to sag and pull off easily with pliers.
The inner white plastic will separate from the metal pins, once the pins get hot. Remove all the plastic and wires.

Next cut the wire leads off of the 220ohm resistor so that the leads and the resistor are all about the same length.
On the WIDI MASTER OUT transmitter, solder the resistor directly to pin 4, and the straight wire leads to pins 2 and 3.
Match these leads up with the exposed contacts on the MIDI jack that we removed the plastic from, and solder them.
Be absolutely sure none of the wires are touching each other!

Now we'll strengthen the adapter by filling it with Devcon 5-min clear epoxy.
Cover the new midi connector end tightly with clear Scotch packaging tape.
Epoxy doesn't stick to the tape so this will keep the connector clean of epoxy.
Next wrap more tape around the area to be filled with epoxy, leaving a small area to pour it in.
Mix a generous amount of epoxy on an old Sweetwater catalog page, and pour it into your new dongle.
Wait 10 mins and remove tape.

You can cover the whole area with shrink tube or electrical tape if you like, for good looks!

The WIDI Master transmitter will now run perfectly cool with the FM3.
It's also long enough to avoid the power cable connector!

*Note: You can also make this adapter by cutting off the end of a midi cable and
soldering the resistor and cable wires to the WIDI Master transmitter.
This method will preserve both Midi IN jacks for bi-directional communication.

Rock!
\m/
 

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AlGrenadine said:
I use it occasionally only so maybe not long enough to get it hot
I can check if it gets hot if you want
Click to expand...
At least the WIDI Master gets hot very quickly after plugging it into the FM3. Of course it's possible the Yamaha dongle is just designed differently so it's harder to feel the heat on the plastic.

So far the adapter I've made has worked great. If someone is looking to build one I would advice getting as small MIDI connectors as you can get to keep it compact. I used standard size ones meant for cables and they are bit bigger than I'd like but my local electronics vendor did not offer anything else.

Another option that would work even better is that instead of the WIDI Master you buy the WIDI Jack. It can be powered via USB or via MIDI out port but uses short cables so you could instead build a custom MIDI -> 3.5mm (or 2.5mm, not sure) cable with the resistor in place. Would most likely look cleaner than the WIDI Master + adapter.
 
I have to to dig the thread out again.
Because: I added a BOSS RC-5 to my signal chain. So , basically: FM3 MIDI OUT > BOSS RC-5 MIDI IN
My question: If i route the BOSS RC-5 MIDI OUT to the WIDI Master, do i need an adapter with this 220 ohm resistor, or does the BOSS "apply" a resistor to the voltage pin? ...
 
MrPond said:
I have to to dig the thread out again.
Because: I added a BOSS RC-5 to my signal chain. So , basically: FM3 MIDI OUT > BOSS RC-5 MIDI IN
My question: If i route the BOSS RC-5 MIDI OUT to the WIDI Master, do i need an adapter with this 220 ohm resistor, or does the BOSS "apply" a resistor to the voltage pin? ...
Click to expand...

I would doubt that the Boss pedal would supply power on its MIDI out socket?
 
I mean - not supply power, more in terms of: Directing power thru the pins and adding the resistor to it?
I ask that because I don't want to add "too much" resistor to the power and also not too low ...
 
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