What String Gauge do you use on electric (strat)

[guitarded]

:lol alright. Good then.

9's are for sissies anyway.

:lol you're gonna get my thread deleted! :lol

Mainly 9-42
A brand new Fender Tele from 2011 came with that gauge too

I find that gauge easier for bending and vibrato but I tend to "miss" or hit the string weirdly with the pick when I (try to) play fast on the high E string.

I am pretty sure 9s were on this one also when it was new...

After 35 years of 9's, I switched to 10-46 D'Addarios recently. Couldn't be happier. I find the intonation is a bit better, especially on the cowboy chords down by the nut. I'm liking the tone too, just a bit less icepicky.

I haven't been playing (guitar) quite that long, but for a while now. did you have any fatigue issues after the switch? Don't get me wrong, I know it's only guitar strings... were not talking about climbing Mt. Everest. I just ask because I have access to a lot of knowledge on here and I appreciate you cats taking the time

can bend the top E up to bottom fret without thinking.

that's what I like about them :lol !
but I haven't had any tuning issues really... seem to have to make slight intonation adjustments occasionally but I think that is due to the crappy bridge they put on. the springs that are supposed to keep tension on the string saddle are very weak!

 

[Stratman68]

9's are fine-If that's what you use that;s what you will get use to. I never go out of tune, well rarely. I play about 4 hours a day, studio only now.
Don't listen to the crap, judge for yourself. For a Strat, 98% (just a guess) of players use either 9's or 10's) Only you can decide.

 

[stratos]

I play EB 10's, was using Elixer Nano-web 10's, but thy seem to de-ravel quicker now.
Tried GHS Dave Gilmor set....sucked big time. My strat has a Kahler, and string tension needs to be balanced between the set.
I use 2 Kinman pups..center/neck to get the snap...some call it a "chimeyness" ..I would describe it as a very noticeable high freq. presence. I also have a (I think) ..120pf capacitor across the volume pot wiper/output lugs. Allows for high end freq. to pass when the pot is turned back.
If using passive pups, keep your line cable as short as possible. Drive line capacitance is a big factor on most guitars.
The 11R input has good impedance matching on the front end....(I think Cliff made a nice work around on FW 11 to do basically the same thing)..thx. again Cliff.
Hope this helps bro.
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Don't forget to re-intonate after gauge changes, and maybe a neck reset if you increase overall tension.

 

[quonsar]

I should clarify - 9's are fine, I only switched to 10's due to my deeply ingrained bad habits. I have a very heavy touch, tend to grip the neck too hard, especially if I am really getting into it! As a result I have always had slight intonation problems with chords down by the nut, your standard cowboy chords E, A, C, D, G, this comes from pressing the strings until they go sharp. 10's aren't all that much bigger than nines, but it seems to make a little improvement for me. I can definitely feel the difference when bending but no fatigue issues at all.

 

[stevorc321]

I like the idea of .10s...less fatiguing for long sets...I occasionally try them now and then - but when I go back to .11s it always feels like home on my strats & teles. It's more that they feel right than sound night/day different. But I do notice a difference in sound because my bending, vibrato, intonation are much better with .11s. Also the high E can sound a bit wimpy for me with .10s. Even .105s don't feel right to me.

 

[Asphyx74]

9-42 Pyramid Pure Nickel Round on my Melancon Custom Artist (standard tuning)
11-52 Pyramid Nickel Plated Steel Round on my LP Standard 2008 and my Schecter Solo 6 Custom (both one step down)

 

[guitarded]

For a Strat, 98% (just a guess) of players use either 9's or 10's) Only you can decide.

If i would have had to make a guess I would have said at least 70% played 10s and the other30% devided between 9s 11s and so on...

I use 2 Kinman pups..center/neck to get the snap...some call it a "chimeyness" ..I would describe it as a very noticeable high freq. presence.

I don't think I have heard a bad review on kinman pups. the new Impersonator 54s look like a sweet set!

It's more that they feel right than sound night/day different.

This is one of my big problems... I get it in my head that it's gonna be a huge difference, then turns out not to be. I would prefer to stay with 9s because I like playing them and am used to them.
I am now thinking the best route for me will be a new set of pups!


anyone using the Dimarzio area 58? I kinda got it my head that these would be a good choice...
I would like something with a medium output. not sure though how it would work out... My strat has a humbucker in the bridge position... I would change it also if I could find a good match...
I am thinking also to just change the pickguard to a stantard S/S/S config...
I assume the routing for the humbucker will accommodate the leaning single? anyone know?

thank you everyone so far!

 

[Stratman68]

I have met and read mostly of 9's & 10's, hence my guesstimate. I have heard many times from folks, 9's on my Strats and 10's on my Les Pauls. LP_'s have a shorter scale and the strings do not have as much tension. I also do many 1 1/2 step bends and at my age, 10's ain't gonna let that happened
Why are you hooked on noiseless? I only ask because from 1990 to a few years ago, I used noiseless on my main strat 89 USA Std. I am moving away from them, except for my deluxe.
('s or 10's or 11's, you cannot go wrong if they are comfortable and sound good to you-That is the ONLY bottom line you should care about.

 

[Guitar-Tiz]

From 9's to 10's, and even from 10 − 46, to 10 − 50, or 9 - whatever's, I notice a difference.

However, I know a lot of my guitarist friends who SAY they can't tell the difference in tone from 9's to 11's, or any gauge, so it's something you'll have to experiment with.

The one thing you will notice, for sure though, is that thicker strings feel different, which in turn affects your playing, which can change your tone in many innumerable ways.

 

[Jens]

I use .11 GHS Boomers on my strat.

Jens

 

[steverosburg]

again... thanks for all the help...


What type of music do you play?

Christian rock and contemporary worship. I can't play fast, so light strings don't really bring much advantage for me there.

 

[Morphosis]

The cheapest 10-46 i can find ... have make comparisons with €1,- sets from thomann.de (germany) vs. D`addario 10-46 ... can`t here differents in sounds. ... but can change strings for times more ofte for the same money ... and this IS a sound difference *g

 

[Rex]

The cheapest 10-46 i can find ... have make comparisons with €1,- sets from thomann.de (germany) vs. D`addario 10-46 ... can`t here differents in sounds. ... but can change strings for times more ofte for the same money ... and this IS a sound difference *g

Be careful with cheap strings — or even more expensive strings for that matter. Tone is only one difference. Intonation will also suffer on a poorly-made string, and a poorly-made connection at the ball end can make it difficult to stay in tune.

There are many brands of strings, but only a few string manufacturers. Most of those manufacturers repackage the same strings and ship them to multiple sellers, to be sold under different brands. Sometimes mainstream strings show up in cheap packaging; sometimes cheap strings show up in mainsteam packaging. If you always buy the cheapest you can find, you run a greater risk of inferior intonation, tuning stability and tone, and a greater risk of premature breakage.

 

[Stratman68]

Also, the acids in each individuals hands (sweat) have a lot to do with strings getting old early. I like Ernie Ball, they are inexpensive and last a long time(for me) My hands don't sweat a whole lot and being OC, I wash my hands 20 to 30 times a day.

 

[Rex]

Also, the acids in each individuals hands (sweat) have a lot to do with strings getting old early.

+1. There are big differences in acidity and quantity of sweat between different people, and they can make a huge difference, not only in string life but in the life of bridge components, tuners and more.

 

[guitarded]

Thanks for all the input!
I may pick up a set of 10s just for kicks
But still thinking new pick ups may be the best fix for me.

 

[andi-o]

But still thinking new pick ups may be the best fix for me.

I'd put it that way, too. Pickups for the sound, strings for the appropriate playing feel.

I play 9.5 - 44 on my Strats and Teles in standard tuning, 10 - 46 on my Strat in Eb
and on my Les Pauls. I think a lot of the "modern" guitar playing techniques request
lighter string gauges. (Ok, if you feel comfortable with 3 nps legato licks on .12 strings,
it's ok for me - I play .12 on my acoustic, btw. 8))


Andreas

 

[guitarded]

I'd put it that way, too. Pickups for the sound, strings for the appropriate playing feel.

That's actually better than I put it. :lol
Thanks for the input Andreas. I have heard some of your recordings and really dig your tone!
Thanks for weighing in!

 

[Guitar-Tiz]

As far as "acids" go, I can only use 2 string brands... DR's, and D'addarios.

I rust a set of EB's in less than 24 hours.

GHS's don't last more than a week.

Until DR came out with their new coating they have, I couldn't use coated strings at all, because it would turn to goop on me.

The only problem I have with D'addarios, is that I don't like the way they feel.

I have used DR's almost exclusively (not counting my acoustic) for over 10 years. I have only strayed once or twice, and only because they where free!

 

[guitarded]

As far as "acids" go, I can only use 2 string brands... DR's, and D'addarios.

I rust a set of EB's in less than 24 hours.

GHS's don't last more than a week.

I have friend like that, and not just the strings... the neck of his guitars really shows it too.