No, it's the opposite.fuzznut said:#23- damp... IIRC, higher values (CW) result in less damping,
Jay Mitchell said:No, it's the opposite.fuzznut said:#23- damp... IIRC, higher values (CW) result in less damping,
Yes. Cliff explained this in some detail within the last few weeks.fuzznut said:So I guess what I'm hearing is the volume compensation that Cliff included in the damp parameter.
Dinkledorf said:Great stuff Yek! Thank you!
eda123 said:AWESOME!!!
THANK YOU SO MUCH!! Very helpful for a newbie like me, and the step-by-step method just cant be beat for clarity.
Some questions:
For #7 - can you post a link here on how to dial in live vs. bedroom? Im sure there is some article out there outlining this- if so a link would be helpful.
For #20 -If you turn it up beyond the amount that the amp sim can handle, the tone will get mushy, or bass tones will get farty and flubby.
Is there any more info on that? IE, why this happens, what models it happens with and at what settings, etc?
I explain this in the thread on speaker resonant frequency: there is no "right" frequency, and there is no way to identify the actual resonant frequency of a speaker (or cab sim) by ear.Deltones said:It would be great if somebody could chime in about a way to hear what happens when the frequency is right while tweaking that parameter.
Also explained in the other thread. It is usually negligible and at most a second-order effect. You may actualy prefer the sound of this parameter set to something other than the "correct" frequency, if you can even tell the difference.It seems that this parameter is very important for accuracy.
yek said::?:eda123 said:AWESOME!!!
THANK YOU SO MUCH!! Very helpful for a newbie like me, and the step-by-step method just cant be beat for clarity.
Some questions:
For #7 - can you post a link here on how to dial in live vs. bedroom? Im sure there is some article out there outlining this- if so a link would be helpful.
For #20 -If you turn it up beyond the amount that the amp sim can handle, the tone will get mushy, or bass tones will get farty and flubby.
Is there any more info on that? IE, why this happens, what models it happens with and at what settings, etc?
Bedroom/live: when playing at soft volume, you often turn up treble and bass. It's what the Loudness switch does on older hifi systems. At louder level those bass/treble freqs are much more noticeable by the ear (Fletcher Munson-law or something) and those same settings can be too much. Also, the guitar is a Mids-instrument, it'll disappear in the mix when competing with other instruments below or above the Mid-range. There's no guide as to dealing with this at bedroom level, other than experimenting yourself. As soon as things work out at rehearsal or live, restrain yourself from adjusting the tone at home. One handy trick though is using the blocking PEQ described above.
MV: no strict guideline here either. Just be aware of it happening.
Jay Mitchell said:I explain this in the thread on speaker resonant frequency: there is no "right" frequency, and there is no way to identify the actual resonant frequency of a speaker (or cab sim) by ear.Deltones said:It would be great if somebody could chime in about a way to hear what happens when the frequency is right while tweaking that parameter.
Also explained in the other thread. It is usually negligible and at most a second-order effect. You may actualy prefer the sound of this parameter set to something other than the "correct" frequency, if you can even tell the difference.It seems that this parameter is very important for accuracy.
If you're looking for the "missing piece," this ain't it. It's a subtle enhancement that is best taken care of only after all the heavy lifting has been done.
Jay Mitchell said:I explain this in the thread on speaker resonant frequency: there is no "right" frequency, and there is no way to identify the actual resonant frequency of a speaker (or cab sim) by ear.Deltones said:It would be great if somebody could chime in about a way to hear what happens when the frequency is right while tweaking that parameter.
Also explained in the other thread. It is usually negligible and at most a second-order effect. You may actualy prefer the sound of this parameter set to something other than the "correct" frequency, if you can even tell the difference.It seems that this parameter is very important for accuracy.
If you're looking for the "missing piece," this ain't it. It's a subtle enhancement that is best taken care of only after all the heavy lifting has been done.
That's not what he said. Here's the quote:joegold said:I don't have time to search for the quote but...
Yet in one of Cliff's recent posts he basically says that tweaking the SRF just right *was* the missing piece in a tone he was trying to nail.
Jay Mitchell said:That's not what he said. Here's the quote:joegold said:I don't have time to search for the quote but...
Yet in one of Cliff's recent posts he basically says that tweaking the SRF just right *was* the missing piece in a tone he was trying to nail.
"Furthermore there are certain aspects that simply can't be modeled and require user intervention. For example, a speaker has a low-frequency resonance. A tube amp will create a higher output at that resonant frequency. The Axe-Fx has no way of knowing what that resonant frequency is and defaults to a value that is common for the speakers that are typically used with that amp. However, if you drive that speaker through a solid-state amp you won't excite the resonance unless you adjust the LF Resonant Frequency to match it. This is the one of the few advanced parameters I ever adjust and I tweak it until I hear the bottom end "sympathize". For example, my favorite Mesa cab resonates around 110 Hz but most of the models default to 95 Hz so I usually adjust the LF Resonance to 110 Hz when using that cab. After I do that the Axe-Fx is indistinguishable from the real thing, IMHO."
If you're close enough that you can't distringuish between the Axe-Fx and the real thing after you get the resonant frequency correct, the odds are that you couldn't tell the difference with a differenct value of resonant frequency.
It really is a subtle effect, when it's even audible.
FractalAudio said:One way to find the SRF is to put a Filter block after the amp block. Set the type to Peaking, Q to 5 or so and Gain to 10 dB. Start with a Freq. of 50 Hz. Play some chugga-chugga and slowly adjust the Freq. until you hear and feel the cabinet resonate. Make a note of the frequency. Remove the filter block and set the amp block SRF to match. 4x12s typically have an SRF of between 80 and 120. Open back cabs are typically a bit lower.
It will not work at all with IRs, because the impulse response contains no impedance information. Furthermore, it cannnot work with a physical cab unless it is being driven by an amplifier that either has a high linear source impedance (for example, a Vox AC30 or a Champ) or is being driven to the point of saturation of its power stage. Even then, the notion that you can hear the "resonant frequency" apart from all the other response peaks that guitar speakers have (due, for example, to standing waves in the enclosure) is a very tenuous one.Deltones said:Is this for physical cabs only, or we can use your trick with IR's