Last time I try. Multiple preset sellers have posted a preset for people to try to see if they jive with the sellers way of dialing in presets. I would LOVE to try out one of your presets to see if it fits with MY gear, ear, etc. It would be awesome if you'd post one of yours for everyone to try instead of someone who might not have my ears/hands/gear, etc. Like I said, I won't keep bugging you about this as it's your business.@sprint you want to try one of my metal Artist preset ? metallica ? ok . check your inbox
Ordinarily, if a new Fractalite is having trouble getting their bearings, a reasonable recommendation is to start with a simple amp > cab chain, maybe with a drive in front, and/or delay and/or verb after, using the models they're familiar with in real life.Ok to set the record straight (if anyone cares) - I really regret calling Fremen's work garbage as him and I have been in correspondence via email, and he genuinely wants me to be happy with his work.
I guess my sticking point is that I'm coming from combo modeling amps that are plug-and-play to the Axe. I have no knowledge of how to pair amps and cabs, what settings to adjust, etc. I'm just a guy who likes glassy cleans, heavy tones (KSE/LoG), and then a nice lead tone like Vai or something. Anyone have advice? Currently drinking water from a fire hose.
Also basically every FRFR or every cab you run into.Damn. I thought maybe some Angel from Heaven created some presets specifically for headphone use. Of course the problem would be they would sound different on every model of phones and you're back to square one.
IMHO, start with IRs for the cab closest to the one that paired with the amp you're trying out.Ok to set the record straight (if anyone cares) - I really regret calling Fremen's work garbage as him and I have been in correspondence via email, and he genuinely wants me to be happy with his work.
I guess my sticking point is that I'm coming from combo modeling amps that are plug-and-play to the Axe. I have no knowledge of how to pair amps and cabs, what settings to adjust, etc. I'm just a guy who likes glassy cleans, heavy tones (KSE/LoG), and then a nice lead tone like Vai or something. Anyone have advice? Currently drinking water from a fire hose.
Picks. Or strings, maybe the tuner or strap buttons … I sound very different with straplocks.I think you should check your instrument cable, that's probably it.
I hear ya man. The Axe Fx and its siblings are complex beasts. But that's a big part of their appeal. You gotta remember, everyone from bedroom players to top producers to literal rock stars are using these things, and Cliff & Co have done a great job at making them "potentially" work for all these groups. There's always the possibility you may be one who determines it's simply too complex for you, and move to something else.I guess my sticking point is that I'm coming from combo modeling amps that are plug-and-play to the Axe. I have no knowledge of how to pair amps and cabs, what settings to adjust, etc. I'm just a guy who likes glassy cleans, heavy tones (KSE/LoG), and then a nice lead tone like Vai or something. Anyone have advice? Currently drinking water from a fire hose.
I tried it, but the volume was really low even when I cranked the amp block. Cab block was already at 6db. Maybe it's a fireware issue?give this one a go and let me know what you think:
https://forum.fractalaudio.com/threads/mesa-mk-iv-patch-cygnus.170722/
I don't sell presets, just curious
Might be the volume block I have in there isn’t mapped to your expression pedal. Try disabling that one, delete it or map it to your expression pedal if you are using oneI tried it, but the volume was really low even when I cranked the amp block. Cab block was already at 6db. Maybe it's a fireware issue?
Try Tonecraft death match preset pack. Best sounding metal preset pack I've tried to date out of the box. Silent underground studios has good preset packs also.I have purchased multiple patches online with limited success (Lasse Lambert from STL Tones, Metal Pack from Choptones, Rock & Metal Pack from Fremen, etc.). These have all been a letdown. I play a lot of Killswitch / Lamb of God -- these packs produce "flubby" soft rock sounds at best. I'm running my Axe Fx 3 through HS8's using a Caparison Dellinger guitar. Everyone seems obsessed with Fremen's material, and I found it to be garbage. Am I doing something wrong?
Headphones are an entirely different way of listening. You can NOT get the same effect from them that you get from regular speakers.I have a metal tone that I like now, but it seems like now I can't get that gratifying "chug" when playing through headphones. Is this something I should stop chasing?
"Because there's no string and body reinforcement. When you play through speakers the sound couples into the guitar body and strings. With headphones you don't get this so the sound is very sterile and lifeless. Now, if you use speakers during recording and then playback through headphones it will sound fine."
"It's lack of acoustic reinforcement. I did a test a few years ago and I don't remember the actual numbers but having a speaker aimed at the guitar adds many dBs of power to the lower mids coming out of the guitar. IOW, if you measure the spectrum of the signal coming out of a guitar alone and then compare that to the signal coming out with a cab or monitor in proximity at a reasonable volume there are a LOT more lower mids with the speaker present. This results in a "thin" sound without the speaker." [8]
"The problem with headphones is that there is no acoustic reinforcement of the guitar. There is zero coupling between the speakers (inside the headphones) and the guitar. Without that coupling, which is a type of positive feedback, the sound is lifeless, thin and harsh. When your heroes recorded their guitar parts that weren't using headphones. On "Appetite for Destruction" Slash recorded his guitar parts in the control room. To get even more coupling into the guitar a combo amp was in the control room with him pointed at the guitar. A volume pedal allowed him to adjust the volume of the combo amp so he could control the coupling. With the volume pedal all the way up he could get controlled feedback. I've actually done tests comparing the spectrum out of the guitar when there is no coupling (i.e. monitors turned off) and with typical coupling (monitors loud or using a conventional cab). The boost in the low midrange is significant. I forget the actual numbers but it was at least several dB." [9]
"I did some studies years ago and having a speaker in proximity to the guitar actually changes the final tone considerably. I compared the frequency response with the amp in isolation to the frequency response with the amp in proximity and measured several dB difference in the lows and mids. It was clearly audible when the recordings were played back."
No, not likely at all; Some people hold back and don't upgrade, but a huge number of us have already used the firmware without that issue. I suspect it's that your expectations might not be grounded in experience.Maybe it's a fireware issue?
I guess my sticking point is that I'm coming from combo modeling amps that are plug-and-play to the Axe. I have no knowledge of how to pair amps and cabs, what settings to adjust, etc. I'm just a guy who likes glassy cleans, heavy tones (KSE/LoG), and then a nice lead tone like Vai or something. Anyone have advice? Currently drinking water from a fire hose.
Wow! Thank you so much, Greg, for taking the time to spell this out in such detail. I have the patience and willingness to learn as the Axe puts so much right at my fingertips. Your quotes on headphones are also very helpful - I have a "high gain" tone locked in for my HS8s that feels just right. I've tried my best to convert this to a dedicated headphones preset, but no matter what I do, it comes out fairly lifeless and flat. I think one of the quotes touched on it well that I can't get the mids where I want them. Too low and the tone sounds processed; too high and the tone becomes boxy with no apparent sweet spot in between.Headphones are an entirely different way of listening. You can NOT get the same effect from them that you get from regular speakers.
Sound through headphones can be dull:
So, stop chasing the sound using headphones? Kinda, maybe, but the better way to think of it is you need to educate yourself on the difference between their sound and the sound of the real amp so you can compensate in your head.
This "compensation in your head" thing is really important. We have to learn how different things can affect the sound, and then how to imagine the effect of turning a knob, or using a different microphone or moving it, or using a different cabinet, different cable, different gauge or type of string… it's a long list of things that affect the sound and they all combine to make the final output. We just have to learn how they all fit together.
No, not likely at all; Some people hold back and don't upgrade, but a huge number of us have already used the firmware without that issue. I suspect it's that your expectations might not be grounded in experience.
"plug-and-play"? So, you never turned a knob on the amp? Or, you turned them and experimented, and found the sound you wanted, without using headphones? Or did you use headphones, found the sound you liked, then took the headphones off and compared the sound and figured out what you needed to do to adjust? Amps are more intuitive because we're not so afraid to twiddle knobs, but you're going to have to twiddle knobs to learn and find the sound you want, so don't let the modeler intimidate you.
Spin the knobs, change things, see what happens. You can NOT blow up the modeler by turning knobs. You might make nasty sounds and your SO might tell you to turn it TF down (mine will), but you can reset the preset and start over. Imagine the "fun" you'd have trying to change things similarly using a real amp with some cutters and a soldering iron. ;-)
Experience is important when using amps and modelers, and you only get that through using them over many years, studying what happens when we make a small change. The new-fangled amps that do it with a push button are actually doing a disservice to new players because they don't learn the cause and effect of twiddling knobs and working with their gear for years, and when they step up to pro-quality gear there's some floundering and thrashing as they come up the learning curve.
There are a number of modeled amps that can do what you want in the factory presets, but, again, the new-fangled amps fool people into thinking it's a simple push-button change, whereas those of us who've used single-channel tube amps for years immediately think of turning down the guitar to reduce gain. And, if you haven't used the analog versions of the amps you won't know they can do that because cheap modeling doesn't act like the real amps; Again, it's experience working for us, but, you can read and come up that learning curve quickly. Fractal's Wiki is chock-full of learning goodness, especially the modeled amp and cab list and the preset list. It's a lot of reading, but well worth doing many times because your knowledge will grow based upon what you've already read.
Don't feel bad about it not immediately getting that "plug and play" response, we've ALL been there. Dig through the Wiki and the manuals, try, try, try, then ask well asked questions and explain what you've done, and we'll try to educate and help fix the issue. K?
Again, experiment. Read the Wiki's pages for each block, look for videos about them, search through the factory presets page in the Wiki for presets that use them and see where they're placed in the chain and experiment with their settings.That being said, it's going to take me a lot of time to learn the effects pedals and not only where to place them in the chain but knowing which block to adjust to get the desired effect.
Here is a fresh quick medley with the preset in attached link (available 24 hour) . this preset is normally done to play with the album first and goes with most of the records .
zero sound edit in the video, a mono track only . dont know why i dont pick my hammett guitar with emg on this one but i love this lp since i own it
Ok feel like I have a good path forward between what you mentioned above and poking around in the wiki page. Thank you.Again, experiment. Read the Wiki's pages for each block, look for videos about them, search through the factory presets page in the Wiki for presets that use them and see where they're placed in the chain and experiment with their settings.
Typically we use filter-based effects, like wah and phaser, in front of a drive and the amp, to imitate the sounds Hendrix and early rock players were getting, and put time-based effects, like flangers, chorus, delay, and reverb after the amp so they act more like studio-based effects, but there's nothing that says they HAVE to be in those positions. You can let your ear be your guide and go with what sounds right to you.
Wah and phaser after the drive is a sound that many songs used, but because the drive puts out a lot of higher frequency sound content, those devices sound very different, and, to me, are almost caricatures of what they're really supposed to sound like, but that's just my opinion. Flangers and chorus sound good in front of the amp or after it, delay is OK in front of the amp if you're going for 50's slap-back but more typically is used after the amp. Reverb into a clean amp is OK, but it's a stereo effect so it should be at the end of the chain because some blocks will force the sound to mono, but studios wire them in in lots of different places these days, so, again, experiment. And, again, the Wiki….
Thanks, man!Try Tonecraft death match preset pack. Best sounding metal preset pack I've tried to date out of the box. Silent underground studios has good preset packs also.