Axe-Fx Firmware Version 21.00 Public Beta #4 (Beta 4)

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sprint said:
best imo, as I mention above, is all on one page with authentic marked or colored for easy recognition, and non-functioning controls greyed out / inoperable so I know what kinds of tweaks do not apply to the selected amp. That would provide all options / info on one page with no need for going back and forth between 2 pages.
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For me, I would say why put non operable controls in any given amp block at all. The 2 page thing came from Cliff's post where he mentions a "tweak" page. I'm not sure if he meant that on the Axe & Axe Edit or just Axe Edit. Anyway, how ever it works out, I will figure out a way to survive!:cool:
 
My Axe FX III has been gathering dust but I finally squeezed some time and updated it to the latest beta.

Compared my real 1983 JTM 2203 to the Brit 800 (2204) model. It sounded spot on.

After A-B’ing for 45 minutes or so I found there were minor differences in the in low end and high mids attack: low end sounds somewhat punchier when playing really hard, and high end has more sparkly and bright attack when playing really soft. Really subtle differences that do not make either the real amp or model any better or worse. Could easily be a Master Volume thing. I couldn’t get my amp’s master volume past 3 because it started to make unfriendly noises. Also the real amp makes an awful hiss compared to the model. Some high notes with real amp really hurt my ears, but that doesn’t happen with the model. That’s actually an improvement IMHO.

That amp just growls with TS808 and Les Paul. The Drive block update (also the one before) is also absolutely bonkers. Amazing job. I used to crank tone in TS style pedals but now at least the TS808 model sounds better with stock settings.

EDIT: I also found the best Big Muff sound so far:
  • change clipping to Op-Amp
  • bias -0,450 to open up the sound
  • tone to taste, I think I had it at 4 or 5
  • sustain to 5-10
  • level 6-10
  • make sure your input 1 block is set to Auto and it’s on the same row with the Drive block so it changes the correct impedance
 
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sprint said:
if they are not there, how does one know what they are?
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What else would they be other than BMT presence or depth. Some amps, like the Triaxis, have specific controls that only apply to them like PA Presence & Preamp Presence. Would it make sense to have those on all amps but greyed out? Or having Hi Cut greyed out on all non class A amps?
 
giantslayer said:
I 99% stick with the Authentic tab. I don't see a need to have inauthentic EQ controls (there are plenty of workarounds for those), but every once in a while I'll mess with parameters more in modification territory like the Bright switch or the Depth (for the Dirty Shirley, for example).
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Leon Todd I do believe uses ideal often
 
notalemming said:
What else would they be other than BMT presence or depth
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Overdrive, High Treble, Master Volume, Bright Switch - so right there is 9 or 10 items.

Just saying, there is an option in between showing: something that does nothing, and, showing nothing at all. Greyed out controls are used a lot in software generally to signify something that does not apply in the current particular case but which can apply in other cases. To me the more important part is combining authentic and ideal pages with authentic controls marked as such (I'm not a fan of going back and forth between those two pages), and not having controls that do nothing as I agree with Fractal, it's confusing to see controls there without knowing (unless you try them), that they don't do anything (and with some more subtle controls, I couldn't tell if it's doing something or not).

notalemming said:
Some amps, like the Triaxis, have specific controls that only apply to them like PA Presence & Preamp Presence. Would it make sense to have those on all amps but greyed out?
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agreed - these, would not need to be shown greyed out as they only apply to some of the rack pre models.
 
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sprint said:
Overdrive, High Treble, Master Volume, Bright Switch - so right there is 9 or 10 items.

Just saying, there is an option in between showing: something that does nothing, and, showing nothing at all. Greyed out controls are used a lot in software generally to signify something that does not apply in the current particular case but which can apply in other cases. To me the more important part is combining authentic and ideal pages with authentic controls marked as such (I'm not a fan of going back and forth between those two pages), and not having controls that do nothing as I agree with Fractal, it's confusing to see controls there without knowing (unless you try them), that they don't do anything.


agreed - these, would not need to be shown greyed out as they only apply to some of the rack pre models.
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I get that but it would make the page really crowded with stuff that does nothing. In Axe Edit, that might work but on the unit itself, not so much.
 
notalemming said:
I get that but it would make the page really crowded with stuff that does nothing. In Axe Edit, that might work but on the unit itself, not so much.
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ya, guess yur right, could get messy - I'm just glad Fractal doesn't like the current state with the non-functioning ideal controls + I think a combined authentic / tweaks page is doable with authentics clearly marked to keep the "just gimmie the basics" and "mad tweaker" camps both happy but "on the same page".
 
Beta 4 is killer.
With beta 2 I had to put the low cut back in place in the amp input section and take out 3db between 100 and 250hz.

With beta 4 I was able to remove the low cut and the 3db dip between 100 and 250hz in the input section on the amp block. I still have the low cut in the cab preamp tuned full left, so 20hz, or basically off.

The amps I use sound so close to my real versions of them, to the point where in a mix I can't tell a difference. The Afx3 has differences in the attack on the high end and the highs still have a lot of full range info above 6k that my physical versions do not, even with the same mic used in front. This is why I still use the high cut in the cab preamp at ~8k.
 
yek said:
BTW, factory presets may have to be re-leveled. For example, The Brown Sound preset is really loud now.
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Yes. Seems all the Marshall style presets I checked got louder (and more bass). I may re-think my speaker "Thump" default at 2 for Marshalls to go lower to 1. Haven't checked metal amps yet. The Class A's amps I tried seem to be slightly little less loud level-wise than before. The few Fenders I tried seem good/no noticeable effect on level. I've been going through LiveGold presets on fw 21 pb4 where things were all leveled in 20.04 preset version, and the changes in fw21 pb4 does move some levels around. But you guys may want to check and re-level your own go-to presets/amps in fw 21 pb4.
 
Michael R said:
Just my opinion, I think the "Tone" page should be named "Controls" or "Knobs" or even "Authentic" like it used to be.
By now, everyone should know that "Tone" comes from your hands.
"Ideal" should be "Modify".
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I like "modify" more than "tweaks" or "ideal."

For renaming the "tone..." maybe "panel," "front panel," or "control panel?"
 
giantslayer said:
I don't see a need to have inauthentic EQ controls (there are plenty of workarounds for those)
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Take a parameter that you have become reliant for dynamics, depth or brilliance, stop using it and try to find a workaround that does exactly the same thing. Easier said than done, and easy say when you don't use them. Not trying to be snarky, just find it a bit peculiar when those who don't use something tell those who do that there's many ways of replicating something they don't have much experience with.
 
Out over my skis on this, but what if a parameter change makes something that did nothing do something?

Take an amp with zero negative feedback and bump it up, don't you now have a functional depth/presence whereas before you might only have a high cut?
 
JoKeR III said:
I, for one, would have to figure out how to tweak amps without the Ideal page. I use it exclusively, tweaking different parameters to fine tune the tone I would like to hear. This is where I've found my happy place that gives me similar results as rolling preamp tubes. I know there are several preamp tube types but the Ideal page gives me the results I'm used to.

I'm extremely sorry to hear that this is a pain for Cliff but very much appreciate having it. It is invaluable to me and one of the things I have really come to rely on.

The parameters I use most are:
  • Bright Switch*, using the Cap Value knob to find the "ideal" setting. Even at very low settings, in conjunction with the High Treble, yields very satisfactory results for me. This is on in pretty much all of my presets.
  • Fat Switch - Almost always have this on regardless of the amp.
  • BMT - Invaluable to me for fine tuning an amp. I really never seem to get the results I would like with a single or dual Tone control(s). I'm not really after "authentic", I really enjoy having the added flexibility in an amp to adjust deeper. Using the Output EQ isn't the same.
  • High Treble - I use it in probably 75% of my presets
  • Depth - Don't use as much as the others, left at default the majority of the time, but I still use it on occasion and experiment with it whenever tweaking a new amp.

The Cut Switch, Input Trim and High Cut are parameters I rarely use. I have yet to use the Master Vol. Trim in any preset, it's left at the default value.

* It was a little disappointing when this parameter was deactivated in some amp models. I'm still trying to get the Nuclear Tone to sound the way it did prior to its deactivation. I found a replacement amp but the Nuclear Tone was my favorite by far and still recommend to others. I still mess with it from time to time, but the Bright Switch really added something to it I can't seem to replicate.
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I also use...
  • Bright Switch - Used with full amp models.
  • Bright Cap - Critical at times for the "ideal" setting, and much easier than soldering caps LOL!
  • High Treble - I use it in many of my presets
  • Depth - I use a lot, along with power tube bias.
  • Master Volume Trim - Critical for my usage as I use my Axe' FX's for tube power amp sims with tube preamps in addition to the full amp models.
  • Cut Switch - Used at times.
  • Fat Switch - Used at times.
Please, please, keep the Ideal parameters, move them and/or rename them if desired, but don't eliminate them!
 
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