All amp models have have a high frequency rasp

StratPIt said:
Note that you must use a Humbuster Cabel for input 2 as this is a balanced input.
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This is incorrect. Humbuster is only for use with Output jacks, and only the ones specifically labeled "Humbuster".

From the manual - Use balanced TRS cables IF you are connecting from a balanced output of another device (to help with noise only, not "must"):

Input 2/FX Return L+R — (2) 1/4" Jacks (balanced) — Connect balanced or unbalanced line level signals here. Input 2 can be used as an FX Return when inserting outboard gear, or as an auxiliary input for use with stereo line level sources such as mixers, synthesizers, backing track players, and more.
TIP: Balanced audio connections are resistant to noise and interference. Use cables balanced at both
ends when connecting to the balanced outputs of other devices (whether XLR or TRS). When connecting to unbalanced 1/4” outputs, use regular patch cables.
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Output 2 L+R – (Stereo) — (2) 1/4" Jacks (HumbusterTM)— Use these 1/4" unbalanced outputs with standard guitar cables to connect to the inputs of other devices. Optional HumbusterTM technology can significantly reduce hum from ground loops. This requires special cables; learn more on p. 8.
Do not use TRS-to-TRS cables, even when connecting to balanced devices.
By default, Output 2 is set for “UNITY GAIN”, allowing applications such as the popular “Four-Cable Method” and other scenarios. Set the OUT 2 Level knob fully clockwise for unity gain.
Output 2 also offers an optional setting for “LINE LEVEL”, used when you connect to devices such as studio monitors, FRFR speakers, etc. Refer to specific setups in Section 4 for details.
Output 2 can also be set to replicate the signal from Out 1 or In 1 without the need to modify your presets. Find additional details about these and other options in “The I/O Menu” on p. 102
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dean701 said:
thanks. I always find others have their gain so high on amps. It doesn't really work for me. I've been using the 'input trim' on the amp block forever to compensate. I have the AX3 but it doesn't have the pad options that you detailed above.
Therefore, I was toying with the idea of the output parameter within the INPUT block. My pickups aren't active but the bridge is 18k so it certainly is more than someone with 7k.

View attachment 132210
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Global Input Gain on Axe Fx III and FM9.
 
Stratman68 said:
I hope you get it worked out. These folks here in this thread and also many others in the fractal community know this stuff inside and out. I am confident they will help you resolve your issues! :)
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I think some of the suggestions have already helped! I am new to fractal products and have never owned any tube amps, so its all completely new to me - I wouldn't be surprised if my main issue is my incompetence 🤣

Thanks again!
 
StratPIt said:
I'm always someone who likes to think outside the box and try to look at things from a greater distance.

I took a look at the technical data of the FM3 and the input can process up to 16dbu signals. In voltage terms, that's 0 to 2V.
If this maximum voltage is exceeded, overdriving occurs.
If the pickups deliver so much signal strength, this could be the reason for the problems.

If necessary, test and use input 2, as this can handle up to 20dbu.

The input trimmer, which is always only considered, cannot limit the incoming signal, but I use it to determine "how much of my input signal goes into the A/D. converter.
And that is the decisive difference to an Anslog guitar amplifier and not comparable.

If the input in the FM3 receives a signal that is too high, the control to the A/D converter can no longer adjust it.

You can often read tips here in the forum when settings of less than 10% and less have to be set for the pickups used!

Here, too, I would recommend input 2.
Perhaps this will help to get to the bottom of the cause.
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16dBu is approx. 7V peak.
 
Things I did about fizziness:

1: (I have an Axe FX III Mk II not an FM3 but I assume this is the same) go into setup, down to I/O, hit enter, then under Input 1/instrument turn that up or down until the meter “tickles the red”, you don’t want it solid red and you don’t want it TOO low, but first thing is to get the input level right.

2: Starting backwards, on the amp block in Axe Edit under Dynamics at the bottom change “Master Bias Excursion to 0% (it’s normally 100%).

3: Output EQ section, for the sake of testing this out make sure it’s all 0’d out on everything for the moment

4: Power Supply Change “Power Type” to “DC” (and you may want to turn the Variac to 60%, I do)

5: Power Tubes + CF Turn Plate Super. Diodes to “On” (it will be set to “Off” most of the time). You can also play around with the Power Tube Type to suit your taste, like you may like some different types of 6L6’s and EL34’s.

6: Preamp: To begin with make sure your input boost is “Off” (much as it is tempting to turn it on and rip, if you turn this off you will immediately hear a great deal of hiss dissipate) and generally you want to make sure the Saturation Switch is set to “Off (though SOMETIMES I leave it on but set it to 2.000 for the level) and I usually set the Preamp Tube Type to 12AX7A Syl and then if it’s a distorted high gain shreddy sound turn the “Tube Hardness” down to 0.00, if it is a Clean tone turn the Tube Hardness up to 10.00

7: I try to make sure the Amp block level is set to the default of -12.0 dB and that the preset volume (on Mac Command-L and it is the “level” at the bottom) is set to -15.0 dB then dial in to taste, sometimes you have to turn the preset volume up or down to be a good default volume with relation to the other presets, and sometimes you have to change the Amp Level with relation to the different scenes (if you have different amps in different scenes under different letter channels (A/B/C/D) as you don’t want to switch from say a quiet clean scene to the next scene that is a nuclear loud high gain tone amp scene.

8: Also someone gave me an example of a gate block I put in front of basically every high gain amp model, it’s always in front of everything so it goes Input > Gate > Everything else. The type is Classic Gate, Threshold: -40.00 dB, Attenuation -60.0 dB, Attack Time: 3.18 ms, Hold Time: 100.0ms, Release Time: 100.0 ms, Gain: -60.0 dB, Level: 0.0 dB, Balance: 0.0, Bypass Mode: Thru, Sidechain Source: Block L+R, Low Cut: 10.00 Hz, High Cut: 20000 Hz

Often when ever there is still fizziness I try starting over with that amp block at all default settings and try more gently tweaking them listening carefully for anything I do that introduces a bunch of fizziness. For me I found it was not one thing but a combination of a bunch of things that caused it but those things above helped it greatly.

Good luck and your mileage may vary.
 
just finished playing a couple hours on the new Brit Silver. Love it. Please keep it right like it is.

back to the high end rasp thing. I would honestly start with changing the cab to see if you can find an IR that appeals to you. THEN.. the BMT, including the ideal high treble settings. then If you have the bright switch engaged on an amp, I would roll the bright cap back.
all the other stuff is much smaller IMO. Just me.
 
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I'll just point out that the Input EQ Definition param is a Tilt EQ, as is the Amp Block Ideal Tab's High Treble param.

The main difference is their different locations in the virtual circuit, with the EQ Definition param at the front end, and the High Treble param where ever the Tonestack is located (which is select-able). The High Treble param is later in the virtual circuit (typically post of some or all of the preamp saturation), which can have a smoother effect when bringing out the upper harmonics in many cases.
 
DJD100 said:
I'll just point out that the Input EQ Definition param is a Tilt EQ, as is the Amp Block Ideal Tab's High Treble param.

The main difference is their different locations in the virtual circuit, with the EQ Definition param at the front end, and the High Treble param where ever the Tonestack is located (which is select-able). The High Treble param is later in the virtual circuit (typically post of some or all of the preamp saturation), which can have a smoother effect when bringing out the upper harmonics in many cases.
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The Blocks Guide doesn't indicate the High Treble is a Tilt EQ. The Wiki says it's a high cut shelving filter been the preamp and power amp:

https://wiki.fractalaudio.com/wiki/index.php?title=Amp_block#HIGH_TREBLE
 
unix-guy said:
The Blocks Guide doesn't indicate the High Treble is a Tilt EQ. The Wiki says it's a high cut shelving filter been the preamp and power amp:

https://wiki.fractalaudio.com/wiki/index.php?title=Amp_block#HIGH_TREBLE
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Hmmm, it was a Tilt EQ back with the Axe II, figured it stayed that way, my bad! It's certainly not a high cut only shelf for all amps, that much is for sure as it's a boost/cut control, so it appears after further review to be a high shelf (the Input EQ's Definition param is a Tilt EQ).

Either way, it works well to bring out the upper harmonics, and Yek's Amp Guide quotes Cliff as saying, "Think of this as an extra tone control. Use it to add zing or tame some harsh highs". Since it's likely part of the tone stack, it can be smoother and less harsh sounding in a post preamp saturation relm vs pre V1a like the Input EQ, when one is looking for "air" and "zing" etc (i.e. bringing out some upper harmonics).

There is a High Cut param between the preamp and power amp, but that's a separate control on the Preamp Tab, plus various amps do have dedicated Cut controls in addition to the High Treble param (Vox etc).

Cheers, and Happy New Year!
 
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Chromatizm said:
Sorry, you are reading it wrong. You are correct if you are saying it it not necessarily a sign of clipping. It simply means that the signal EXCEEDS -6dB.
But for how much - this you can't know, because we don't have a clipping meter implemented in the FW, only Axe3 user can know for sure. It can exceed 6dB enough to cause clipping. So to make sure you are not clipping, you need to record via USB and look for the signs of clipping - squished peaks on the waveform.

You can dive deeper in this conversation in these threads:
https://forum.fractalaudio.com/threads/emg-18v-red-lighting-fm3-with-18db-pad.200085/
https://forum.fractalaudio.com/threads/where-are-you-setting-your-input-level.192779/
https://forum.fractalaudio.com/threads/input-clipping-thread.193293/
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Just checked. I have my FM3 set correctly as per the manual. Input 1 is padded by 18db, because with Abasis anything less than that will no longer "tickle the red," it will light the red for extended times constantly. Zooming in on the waveform, there doesn't appear to be any clipping. If I change to 12ddb pad, then it clips, as is expected because the red is not "tickled," it's on for extended periods constantly.
 
Chromatizm said:
Man, with Fishmans I like -18dB in the Input block SO MUCH MORE than in the Output block!
This is a fucking revelation. How come I never tried this before and was using it simply as another "input trim"....
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Adjusting the output in the input block will simply reduce the level going into any blocks after that. Amp blocks will see a lower signal, sort of like using lower output pickups or lowering the volume on your guitar. I don't understand why you would ever try to compensate for hot pickups by adjusting the output block? That is for adjusting the overall output level of your preset.
 
Stratman68 said:
Now I am NOT a metal guy-But the clip posted by 621 is light years ahead of the clips posted by the OP. The OPs clip sound so unclear, no definition and , etc, etc. Just my 2 cents, it is NOT the fractal gear that is the issue.
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Indeed something seems to be going on in your amplification chain. At the pick attack I hear some buzz/vibration, like if there's a loose screw or some other thing loose in there. Or if your Amp cannot handle +4dBU output signals hence lower to minus -10dBU
 
Aleksi said:
I don't understand why you would ever try to compensate for hot pickups by adjusting the output block?
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Did you record via usb with the simple direct Input-Output chain (two blocks only) or a full preset? You need only In/Out blocks only - if there is an amp/cab in the preset, or any other block , you will not see the proper results. The simple preset will show clipping if the output block has 0dB. The amp will process a sound and make it look like there is no issue. With Input at 0dB and Output at 0dB Abasi's will still clip, even with -18dB padding, when strumming real hard, which happens to me sometimes. I detailed it all in other threads.

There is huge difference in the clarity of their sound when they are not overloading the input of the amp. When you have 0dB on the Input, Abasi's immediately compress and distort a sound, leveling everything and bringing mids forward. Sometimes you want this or don't care (chugging or even legato playing), sometimes you don't. I heard that but for some time was ok with it, and thought that was their intended sound, and compensated the clipping by lowering the level of Output block to avoid clipping on the waveform. I thought it just a normal compression. Well, it is not!

I always felt that Abasi's don't sound "as they should" in my setup. As I can make them sound using real amps. Other pickups were fine, strats etc., but Fishmans were always at least slightly distorted, no matter which amp I play, clean or not. Humbucking setting gives you slight distortion even on amps like Roland JC120 - it is not ok. And I never was able to figure out why, was just saying to myself - well, it is what it is. They are active, so they have limited dynamic range, they are crazy hot, that's why metal guys love them, blah blah - all sorts of excuses.

Until I tried -40dB of the level in the Input block yesterday :) They finally sound GOOD. No, they sound GREAT. Single coil settings are awesome now. Humbucking setting give me good jazz sound instead of that distorted something.
All the amps I was never fully happy with (clean amps) are sounding absolutely amazing with this setting. I'm back to trying all amps again because they just sound totally different, much more pleasing, open, dynamic. And the dynamic range - in-fucking-sane. I will have to learn to play again.

I will set up a Control Switch to jump between -18db input/0dB output and 0dB input/-18dB output and compare. But I already know I will use this as a "solo mode" switch to have the sound compressed for legato when I need it. So many options!

I urge to try. If you don't agree with me, that's ok! I plan to do all my tests again and who knows, maybe soon I will agree with you :) But right now I feel like I'm in a right place finally. Happy New Year!
 
Chromatizm said:
Did you record via usb with the simple direct Input-Output chain (two blocks only) or a full preset? You need only In/Out blocks only - if there is an amp/cab in the preset, or any other block , you will not see the proper results. The simple preset will show clipping if the output block has 0dB. The amp will process a sound and make it look like there is no issue. With Input at 0dB and Output at 0dB Abasi's will still clip, even with -18dB padding, when strumming real hard, which happens to me sometimes. I detailed it all in other threads.

There is huge difference in the clarity of their sound when they are not overloading the input of the amp. When you have 0dB on the Input, Abasi's immediately compress and distort a sound, leveling everything and bringing mids forward. Sometimes you want this or don't care (chugging or even legato playing), sometimes you don't. I heard that but for some time was ok with it, and thought that was their intended sound, and compensated the clipping by lowering the level of Output block to avoid clipping on the waveform. I thought it just a normal compression. Well, it is not!

I always felt that Abasi's don't sound "as they should" in my setup. As I can make them sound using real amps. Other pickups were fine, strats etc., but Fishmans were always at least slightly distorted, no matter which amp I play, clean or not. Humbucking setting gives you slight distortion even on amps like Roland JC120 - it is not ok. And I never was able to figure out why, was just saying to myself - well, it is what it is. They are active, so they have limited dynamic range, they are crazy hot, that's why metal guys love them, blah blah - all sorts of excuses.

Until I tried -40dB of the level in the Input block yesterday :) They finally sound GOOD. No, they sound GREAT. Single coil settings are awesome now. Humbucking setting give me good jazz sound instead of that distorted something.
All the amps I was never fully happy with (clean amps) are sounding absolutely amazing with this setting. I'm back to trying all amps again because they just sound totally different, much more pleasing, open, dynamic. And the dynamic range - in-fucking-sane. I will have to learn to play again.

I will set up a Control Switch to jump between -18db input/0dB output and 0dB input/-18dB output and compare. But I already know I will use this as a "solo mode" switch to have the sound compressed for legato when I need it. So many options!

I urge to try. If you don't agree with me, that's ok! I plan to do all my tests again and who knows, maybe soon I will agree with you :) But right now I feel like I'm in a right place finally. Happy New Year!
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Yes, I recorded a DI straight from input 1. Zero processing on that. When the input pad is set correctly, the Abasis will be like any other pickup, they will interact with processing down stream as they should. As in they will certainly drive an amp harder than lower output pickups. You can change this interaction by manipulating the signal before processing it further. It's not magic and it's not a secret. It's simple. An amp will react differently to a different signal. That's all there is to it.

If you were able to avoid the clipping by adjusting the actual output level of the preset (i.e. the outpu level after all the processing is already done) then it has nothing to do with the pickups being hot, but everything to do with something else clipping.
 
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