I understand what you are saying... I probably one of the people your talking about in your post...I did not mean to piss anyone off ...sorry...just trying to flush out info and opinions and it worked. Learned a lot by doing so. I was never complaining about the product although a lot of people took it that way.
And truth be told you have been a great help and a level head on this forum... Now if you dont mind i have some questions for you...or any one else would like to contribute ... I will be taking my questions directly from the manual or wikii
1) Ever thought about giving skype lessons.
2)DEPTH – Boosts low frequencies from the power amp simulation by varying the negative feedback frequency response. So my question is what does varying the negative feedback frequency response do to the sound? My understanding is this ... I use it to fatten up the sound in conjunction with MV.... If this is how to approach using the damp control no need to answer.
3) What is negative feedback frequency response
4 )LF RESONANCE, LF RES FREQ, LF RES Q – Guitar loudspeakers have a low-frequency resonance,typically about 100 Hz. This shifts up slightly when the speaker is mounted in an enclosure. This resonance causes an increase in the power amplifier response due to the finite output impedance of the power amp. This tells me nothing it might as well be in french. How do these 3 controls inter-react with each other and how do they affect the tone of the amp. In other words when im adjusting the sound i go to these controls to do what? Buzz words like smooth out, brighten up, amplifier clip , vintage and the like would be very help full.
5) LF RESONANCE ? I know what low frequency is and i think i know what resonance is... But when the two words are put together ??? My guess is that raising the value of this parameter will make the sound more boomey ... If im on the right track no need to answer this question.
6) LF RES FREQ ?? what is this and how does changing the value of this control affect the sound? Again im looking for buzz words
7) LF RES Q ?? what is this and how does changing the value of this control affect the sound? Again im looking for buzz words.
I hope that im not insulting any one by asking these questions and understand that i may be asking too much maybe i should go to engineering school to learn this...but it would be great if someone could explain these and other parameters in terms i can use and apply if someone wants to do a paypal skype lesson to teach me im open to that... One way or the other im going to learn and understand every last control in this little black box because i have different sounds in my head that are not in any of the presets. I want to know which nob when and how far right or left to turn it....
Scott your video was great im studying but i want to learn more please dont take that the wrong way you are a great teacher and these are the questions i seek answers to.
Thanks
I wasn't referring to you at all. The general 'knock' on the Axe-FX from folks that want to demonize it or folks that own it is that you have to tweak incessantly to get tones or that it is difficult to do so. It's not. My comments were more directed at that meme... not you or anyone specifically.
I do work with people individually - but I do not work for Fractal Audio and it is not official Fractal authorized consulting, so I'm not comfortable discussing it on the boards here at the Fractal Forum. Contact me via PM to discuss further.
In terms of what the different parameters do... I'll fall back on what works. Two answers (expressed honestly and sincerely): 1) any given parameter only matters if it makes things sound better to YOU; 2) Trust your ears.
That's going to be stressful to some that want every detail of everything totally under their fingertips... my point is that you do NOT need to know anything about these things to simply dial it up. Trust the method... not the parameters.
Put another way, no matter if you have knowledge and understanding of every single control... that does not mean you can dial up a good sound if you: a) don't have a method; b) don't trust your ears.
Put even another way, the parameters and what they do... does not matter unless it makes things sound better to you. You can use my method from the video - which is essentially all I do - for EVERY single amp type or different kind of tone.
The differences will be with the cab block setup. That's essential; and I use different IR combinations though with the same method - a NF combined with a FF. Currently that is a given OwnHammer with a given Jay Mitchell but there are more far field IR's coming from OwnHammer and at some point from Jay Mitchell. I find the 'character' of the cab is more dependent on the NF IR and the FF is essentially the 'broth' that makes the soup taste cohesive.
You need to do research on whatever amp you are using to find the proper NF to use. I find the Red Wire Cabs might need some low/high pass work to 'mix' in correctly without adding all sorts of overtones (low mud and high 'essssssss') but they are workable too. It is also very important to note that you do not need to use a mic; I do not.
The reason I feel the cab IR block has any of these issues isn't IMHO related to the cab block or the IR's or use of IR's... it is more to the fact that the VAST majority of IR's are NF (near field) right up on the speaker grille. That's, IMHO, never discussed; but that's the whole point of FF IR's.
Stick your ear up close to a speaker... and it sounds unnatural. Stick a microphone up close to a grille.... and it sounds unnatural. That's the reason, IMHO, IR's add all sorts of highs and lows that we have to cut out for it to 'cut' and sound right.
Now, FF IR's by themselves don't sound right to me personally - IMHO - any more than the NF IR's by themselves. I fought against this for years now, mixing IR's from different distances (and the back of the cab) in an effort to offset this.
With the Axe-FX II, there is a simple way to handle this. Imperfect? Yes; but it sounds good and feels right to ME. IMHO, YMMV.
Here's my post-5.xx recommendations for live/recording. If you follow this, you may find that all the 'too bright!' and 'too dark!' sort of threads disappear. I cobbled this together from a few different posts all over the forums.
Amp/cab ONLY. No reverb, no effects, no PEQ, no EQ, no Global. Zip, nada, nothing. Just an amp/cab.
Start with your sound in the amp block. Take your cab block in the Axe-FX and make it stereo. Then pan them both center. Room settings to off. Speaker Cab Motor at 5.00 (noon). Proximity to taste. Make one speaker IR an OwnHammer that is a proper choice for your amp type (say the G65 OH) and *
No Mic*; then the other make it a Jay Mitchell FF IR - I use the EV112 and G12-65 JM mainly and *
No Mic*. Set your Drive/Master Volume and then tone stack EQ on the amp block as you normally would till you like how it sounds. That's it.
IMHO, most all IR's you are using are all close mic'd and that's been a major flaw thus far in use with them... because that's how it's been done for decades. That's why mix engineers use so much EQ... and we have too with the Axe-FX (ie. blocking lows/highs after the cab, etc)..
Seriously, try this and let me know what you think.
Fender (or Fender Like tones): OH 112 Boogafunk E12L/JM 112 EMI Open Back FF
Vox (or Vox like tones): OH 112 Boogafunk Blue/JM EMI 112 Open Back FF
Marshall: OH 412 SLM M75/JM 212 G12-65 FF
Higher Gain: OH SLM G65 (*or OH V30, H75, Blue, or G65)/JM 212 G12-65 FFNote (repeated for emphasis): No mic. No room reverb from block. Speaker Motor Drive at 5.00 (noon). Both cabs panned center.
It'll sound good. Tweak from there to find your own flavors.
