POLL: The most accurate PAF replica...

Who makes the most accurate PAF replica today? Must be new manufacture and under $2000 for the set.

  • Arcane (Triple Clone, 57 Experience, Tim Pierce Signature)

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Klein (Epic Series Wicked, 1958 P.A.F., 1959 P.A.F)

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Sigil (Holy Grail 58, Holy Grail 59

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • Total voters
    54
The Duncan Seth Lover was developed by Seymour with Seth Lover who invented the PAF. Wound on the original winders, bobbin molds from the original factory etc. If the goal is accuracy I would think it would be in contention but what I’m seeing here is that it’s dismissed because they’re too popular. They’re also inexpensive, so is that viewed as a negative too? Just curious because I don’t get it.

The only reason I'm not considering the Seth Lover is that I've already got a set of Antiquities and a set of '59s. Both are really good and I have no reason to think that the Seth Lovers aren't just as good. I'm just not sure that they're that different than what I already have.

Based on the specs, the Seth Lovers are a little underwound as compared to the Antiquities (within the average range for PAFs, so I wouldn't really consider them "underwound"). In my case, that might be a good thing because I seem to like underwound PAFs in general. Oddly, my Antiquities measure around 7.5k and 6.4k, which is well under the specs listed as 8.6k and 7.7k. Granted, I'm measuring them in-circuit, so I would expect them to be a little off (maybe not 1k different, though).

BTW, both my Antiquities and '59s are staying in the guitars they're in because I do really like them. If I didn't have those, I likely would have boughten a set of Seth Lovers a long time ago. I would highly recommend them to anyone looking for a PAF, even if I don't have a set myself.
 
The only reason I'm not considering the Seth Lover is that I've already got a set of Antiquities and a set of '59s. Both are really good and I have no reason to think that the Seth Lovers aren't just as good. I'm just not sure that they're that different than what I already have.

Based on the specs, the Seth Lovers are a little underwound as compared to the Antiquities (within the average range for PAFs, so I wouldn't really consider them "underwound"). In my case, that might be a good thing because I seem to like underwound PAFs in general. Oddly, my Antiquities measure around 7.5k and 6.4k, which is well under the specs listed as 8.6k and 7.7k. Granted, I'm measuring them in-circuit, so I would expect them to be a little off (maybe not 1k different, though).

BTW, both my Antiquities and '59s are staying in the guitars they're in because I do really like them. If I didn't have those, I likely would have boughten a set of Seth Lovers a long time ago. I would highly recommend them to anyone looking for a PAF, even if I don't have a set myself.
So maybe I consider Seth Lover's for a future build based on this discussion. But wondering how they compare to the Lollar Imperials (Low Wind). The Low Wind Imperials seem like they have a lot of the tonal characteristics I am looking for.
 
So maybe I consider Seth Lover's for a future build based on this discussion. But wondering how they compare to the Lollar Imperials (Low Wind). The Low Wind Imperials seem like they have a lot of the tonal characteristics I am looking for.

The Imperials are the pickup I’d like to try. Pricey though so I haven’t jumped yet.
 
ReWinds do look very interesting and James Finnerty seems to know his stuff. Unless I missed something (quite possible), he's a relative newcomer to this niche, at least compared to Throbak. That doesn't really mean much, I think, because everyone starts somewhere.

Have you read Finnerty's book that he co-wrote with Mario Milan? It's an interesting read and contains interviews with Jon Gundry (Throbak), Jason Lollar, Tim Mills (BKP), Wolfe Mcleod (Wolfetone), Dave Stephens, and a couple of other well-known winders. So, I think it's a fairly well-rounded compilation of research and, IMHO, doesn't come off as just an advertisement for ReWind. Milan wrote another book on pickups that I read a few years back, but thought you might be interested in this one because it goes into great detail about a lot of the stuff we've been talking about here.

It's called, "The Gibson "P.A.F." Humbucking Pickup: From Myth to Reality" ISBN-13 978-1574243642, and is available from Amazon for about $30, I think. Anyway...

I know what you mean about the wait, especially the part about "no status updates" (from ReWind's website). OTHO, with many "craft" builders in many trades, there are similar waits, kind of nature of the beast. I've heard that Ron Ellis and Tom Holmes had waiting periods of several years at one point (I don't even want to talk about the Analogman King of Tone waiting list... LOL).

Is it worth the risk? Good question. I've found no reason to believe that ReWind is anything other than an incredibly accurate recreation on the same level as Throbak. Then again, we've heard from several Throbak users here and ReWind has just recently come up. I was hoping to hear from a few more, but, given that they are not cheap and are relatively new (comparatively), there simply may not be as many users.
I will look into that book. I am always interested in learning more. And, my read on what you are saying in the last paragraph is that ReWind are likely comparable (+ or -) to ThroBak, but just not as well known. Based on what I said above, that could mean ReWind's are a good find. I likely just am too risk averse to go that route this time.
 
They really aren't more expensive than Fralin's. The Seth Lover's are $135 a pickup and the Imperials are $185. I think both are actually less expensive than Fralin, and definitely much less expensive than ThroBak or ReWind.

Yeah, that's pretty much my take on ReWind... I think they're likely comparable to Throbak, but I just don't know and haven't heard enough from people who have tried them to want to just jump in.

While I haven't tried the Lollar Imperials, I do know that they make great pickups. I remember seeing a lot of talk about the Imperials a few years ago, especially the Low Winds, but that seems to have calmed down a bit. They're still on my short list to try, maybe not this time, but eventually. I really enjoyed the Lollar P90s and Tele sets that I've had.

@skolacki - FWIW, I agree with @SpudMan , the Lollars aren't that much more expensive and, from my experience with his other pickups, are definitely worth looking into.

Also FWIW, if I wasn't so curious about just how close I can get to the materials and before hearing many of the suggestions from this thread, Lollar, Fralin, and Duncan's Custom Shop would have been the three I would have tried before anything else.
 
Yeah, that's pretty much my take on ReWind... I think they're likely comparable to Throbak, but I just don't know and haven't heard enough from people who have tried them to want to just jump in.

While I haven't tried the Lollar Imperials, I do know that they make great pickups. I remember seeing a lot of talk about the Imperials a few years ago, especially the Low Winds, but that seems to have calmed down a bit. They're still on my short list to try, maybe not this time, but eventually. I really enjoyed the Lollar P90s and Tele sets that I've had.

@skolacki - FWIW, I agree with @SpudMan , the Lollars aren't that much more expensive and, from my experience with his other pickups, are definitely worth looking into.

Also FWIW, if I wasn't so curious about just how close I can get to the materials and before hearing many of the suggestions from this thread, Lollar, Fralin, and Duncan's Custom Shop would have been the three I would have tried before anything else.
I have a set of the Fralin Modern PAF's on a rear rout HH Tele with coil split for both, 2V 1T. I really like them.
 
Something I forgot to post yesterday;

Regarding rewind and throbak, I see the listings but cant recall NGD’s. There’s the odd wtb but i cant recall reading many NGD posts about them. Being on multiple forums for a number of years, maybe I have just missed it. Perhaps owners reserve ngd posts for guitars and amps? But at the price point i would kind of expect one..
 
Something I forgot to post yesterday;

Regarding rewind and throbak, I see the listings but cant recall NGD’s. There’s the odd wtb but i cant recall reading many NGD posts about them. Being on multiple forums for a number of years, maybe I have just missed it. Perhaps owners reserve ngd posts for guitars and amps? But at the price point i would kind of expect one..

Based on the searches I've done, I would agree. Not many for either, very few for ReWind. Honestly, I hadn't even heard of them until about a year ago, but have been aware of Throbak for a long time.

I've installed a couple of sets over the past week and was thinking about a couple of NPD posts for them, but haven't gotten there, yet. Just gist is that I think the new Fender American Vintage II pickups are absolutely great and very authentic. I put a set of Duncan Antiquity Jazzmasters (the fairly new '50s-based set, not the Ant IIs) that were exactly what I was looking for (the stock pickups were great, just wanted a different sound). And, after owning her for 21 years, I finally replaced the stock pickups (ceramic mini-humbuckers) in my Firebird V with the new Gibson Firebird pups (not minis but actually alnico Firebirds) and she finally sounds exactly like I want her to. Bottom line is that both Fender and Gibson have really stepped up their game, I think.

I wonder if that some/most people who do spend that much are not bothering to post because they don't want to deal with all the flames. Take the Gibson 1959 Humbucker Collector's Edition. There are pages and pages of people who just hate the idea of $1000 pickups. But, if you deduct the average price of repro rings, which Gibson includes, they are no more expensive that ReWind, Throbak, or several others. And they're likely designed by Jared Brandon who was hired by Gibson after starting Brandonwound Pickups about 15 years ago. From what I can tell, Brandonwound were fairly highly regarded. But, of all those people posting, I can't recall one that had actually purchased the pickups and there are only two videos I've found that actually demonstrate them. They sounded pretty good to me, but it was very difficult to tell because neither was a very good demo. I get it, though, Gibson is a "designer" brand. So many people hate on PRS for the same reason, most without having played one. Of course, not everything is for everyone (I personally don't care for Gretsch or Rickenbacker, but they are great guitars), but maybe people who aren't posting about ReWind, Throbak, and others, are just trying to stay away from that unfounded hate.
 
I've been thinking that maybe it would be a good thing to get into some of the details of my thought process and why the materials and construction matter to me so much in this case. This might be rambling a bit, so please bear with me. And please remember, that a lot of what I'm talking about here isn't related to PAFs specifically but to all pickups in general. Lastly, I'm trying to keep it simple, so I may be saying some things that are pretty obvious.

All of this is just my opinion, so if there's anything in this that isn't correct, please let me know. There is always more to learn, and I don't claim to be an expert here.

Pickups are simple devices that transduce the vibration caused by the strings into an electric signal which can then be amplified. That's fairly obvious, but worth pointing out at the beginning. These devices contain only a few parts that are necessary and the structures that are physically required to support them.

The magnetic field is the key component, because without this, the only way that the coils could sense the motion of the strings is through physical vibration. It would be too weak and very prone to feedback. So, the magnetic field is king and anything/everything that effects it is going to affect the sound.

The source of the magnetic field is the magnet and many different magnets have been used (including an electromagnet that required a voltage source). It's fairly well accepted that different types of magnets produce different sounds (e.g. ceramic, alnico, cunife, neo) because of how they project a magnetic field. There are different grades of each (e.g. A2, A3, A4, C8, etc.). Each of these grades is separated by an average value and a range of tolerance. Say 0-9 is "A", 10-19 is "B", 20-29 is "C" and so on (magnet grades use numbers, which is where we get A2, A3, etc.).

Considering the effect on the size, shape, and strength of the magnetic field, the size and shape of the magnet are also important and do affect the sound. Multiply that for designs that use multiple magnets such as P90s, Dirty Fingers, most Fenders.

Some magnets may produce small, strong fields that decay quickly, others may produce broad, diffuse fields that decay gradually. The details aren't necessarily important unless you're a physicist, but it is important to keep the size, shape, and density of the field in mind because this will have an effect on the sound and is why different magnets sound different.

Tolerances within each grade can significantly change the final result, too. Using my "A, B, C" example above, a 19 would be a "B" and is much further away from a 10, also a "B," than it is to a 20, which would be a "C" but only slightly different from the 19 "B." So, the borders matter because while they help us classify which is which, they also aren't as descriptive as we tend to think they are. This is multiplied exponentially by the ratios of the metals in a given alloy. If the average is, say 15, and you've got 10 (in spec) of aluminum, 19 (in spec) of nickel, and 15 (average) of cobalt, it's not really the same as 15 AL, 19 NI, and 10 CO. I'm making the numbers up in an attempt to demonstrate how variable amounts can remain "in spec" but still change the resulting alloy. I'm not a chemist or metallurgist, but I think this is still a valid point.

Another thing to consider here is manufacturing tolerances, which can be anything agreed to between the manufacturer of the magnet and the consumer of that magnet (pickup company, reseller, importer, any number of middle agents between where the magnet is made and the company that uses it to make pickups). These tolerances, say 10% can take an example of 10-10-10 (again using my "A, B, C" example above) and turn it into a 9-9-9 which results in something being labeled a "B" but is actually an "A."

So then there's the coil. The magnet magnetizes the string and the string moves, interacting with the stationary magnet to induce current in the wire, which is wound in a coil to provide more wire to produce more current. Since the magnetic field varies in strength as it moves away from the source magnet, the size, shape, and density of the coil is going to greatly affect how well the vibrating string transduces its mechanical energy into electrical current. It's fairly well accepted that different gauges of wire will produce different results, but...

What about the shape of the coil? Jazzmaster pickups don't sound like Stratocaster pickups in part due to the shape of the coil (wide and thin vs narrow and thick). Jazzmasters don't sound like P90s, either, in part due to the different coil shapes (both wide, but one thicker than the other).

Then, there's how the coil is wound. Is it very tightly wound or is it more loosely wound? Too loose and it will allow for too much movement from mechanical sources other than the string that will also induce current. This is where microphonic feedback comes from. Too tight and it will restrict that movement, which can also include the guitar itself vibrating. This is why some pickups allow more of the acoustic sound of the guitar to come through while others sound the same (or very similar) no matter what guitar they are installed in. Potting will effectively stop almost all movement in the coil itself, which will help eliminate microphonic feedback, but also kills any chance of the pickup sensing the acoustic qualities of the guitar itself.

Is the coil symmetrical or is it asymmetrical? Some coils are wound like hourglasses, others may be wound heavier on the top or on the bottom. Some may be heaviest in the middle, more like a rounded ball shape. Equally important but not as apparent is what shape is the inside of the coil? Just because the inside of the bobbin is flat (if it is), doesn't mean that the wire fits snuggly against it. A good example of this is the lead wires attached to the beginning of some coils and then wound part-way around the coil before the magnet wire is wound. Depending on the size and insulation of this lead wire, the effect on the inner shape of the coil can be significant. What about a figure-eight shaped coil? If you've got two mid-focused coils stacked on top of each other, as in some hum-cancelling "single-coils," could that coil shape contribute to why they don't ever quite sound like true single coils? Maybe...

What about the magnet wire itself? Is it evenly within its gauge or does it vary, as specification and manufacturing tolerances apply here, too. What is the insulation made of (e.g. plain enamel, polyester, etc.), how thickly, and how evenly is it applied? All of this will affect the shape, size, and density of the coil.

Scatter-winding, I think, is just another way of saying the layers of the coil are more or less symmetrical. All mechanical devices, like pickup winders, will exhibit a greater or lesser degree of accuracy. CNC winders can be very accurate, but can be programmed to include specific deviations from a completely symmetrical layer. Hand-winding is the least consistent. Mechanical winders are somewhere in the middle. They all work a little differently, and all ultimately help determine the shape, size, and density of the coil.

What about the bobbin itself? Most are simple oblong cylinders. Age may cause them to partially collapse, which will change the shape and the internal tension of the coil. Does what the bobbin is made out of matter? Well, in general, that material, some type of plastic generally, isn't magnetic. So, unless it is or somehow influences the magnetic field (like changing shape over time or resistance to damage), probably not. The shape of the bobbin is what matters, including any deformations.

So, then we get into the supporting structures, like the baseplate, covers, the pole slugs, and/or the pole screws. The poles, slugs or screws, have to be made of magnetically conductive material or they can't serve their purpose of conducting the magnetic field up to the strings. Sometimes, they are the magnets themselves, as in most Fender pickups. Sometimes, they are made of some variety of steel, as in most Gibson-style pickups. In any case, the composition of that material is bound to have an effect on the resulting magnetic field.

The baseplates, while below the magnet, coils, and strings, also have an influence on the magnetic field. If they're made from magnetically conductive material, the composition of that material will also affect their influence on the magnetic field. If they're made from something that is not magnetically conductive, then the magnetic field is still influenced as it is no longer being partially reflected back up into the coil and the strings. Think of Telecaster pickups that have a metal "reflector" plate on the bottom or adding one of these reflecting plates to a Strat pickup, which is a common option from many winders. Does that change the sound? Yep.

Same thing for covers. During the late '60s and '70s, when Les Pauls and humbuckers were gaining popularity, many players, like Jimmy Page, removed one of both of the covers from their humbuckers. Supposedly, this increased treble in a time when treble helped cut through crowd noise and insufficient PAs. I'd think that the presence or absence of a magnetic material between the coils and the strings will absolutely contribute to the resulting sound and the composition of that material plays a part in that result, too.

To be continued...
 
(continued from post #171 above)

So, what else is there? That pretty much covers the pickups themselves, but there are other things that can impact the sound.

The guitar itself, while this seems obvious, can have a dramatic impact on the amplified sound. As @Budda pointed out earlier in this thread, the setup plays an important part and, I think, is greatly responsible for how a guitar feels and responds. Anything that contributes to the transmission of vibrational energy is important. That means a good nut, a good bridge, a solid neck joint, good tuners, everything properly tightened down. The action and the tension on the strings will affect the balance of fundamental tones and harmonics, including the angle the strings cross the bridge.

Pots, switches, capacitors, even the wire in the loom will have an impact of the resulting sound. The pots should be solidly constructed, and the taper must be something that the player find usable. Anyone who's ever compared linear taper and audio taper pots will tell you that there is a difference. Fender used 250k pots in their guitars because they smooth out the treble more than the 500k post Gibson originally used. Back in the '80s, using 1M pots was a common mod to retain more treble. With capacitors, not just the value but also the materials and voltage rating (because it relates to the size and materials used, not because there's high voltage inside a guitar, or at least there shouldn't be), how the tone pots are attached to the volume pots ('50s vs modern wiring), all of that makes a difference and is easy to verify if you have the time and patience to move a few wires or change a pot or cap to a different value.

How does any of this help me reach my goal? Well, what I'd really like is to go back in a time machine and buy an original PAF. As many have pointed out, that's a broad tonal goal and fairly generic, and I absolutely agree. So, I think my best chance of replicating that is by paying attention to all these minute details. Writing this out in a way that I hope is understandable by people who don't think like me (most everyone, probably, hopefully, even) is helping me define, to myself, what I think is and is not important.

Are there a million ways to get to the PAF type of sound? Absolutely, and they are all valid choices. I really have gotten more out of this thread than I expected I would. Found several winders I'd never heard of, got a line of what sound like some great P90s, got a lot of opinions on what works for some, and many other things to think about.

Should I be committed? LOL! Probably, but I can't play 24-hours a day, so I tend to think about playing a lot and, well, I love to analyze systems. What better system to analyze than a guitar? Better yet, time to quit analyzing and go play guitar! Hope everyone has a great Saturday night!!
 
what the crowd wants to know is:

When are you placing your orders, and what? With this kind of investment i/we hope for clips with as few changed variables as possible (use the same pick kinda thing).

And as its been mentioned a few times, scatter-wound is allegedly a Fender thing whereas Gibson machines are automated thus not scatter-wound. Any pickup repair folks are welcome to correct :)
 
I think scatter-wound is one of those overused marketing terms in that all coil winders can introduce some scatter (hand-guided > machine > CNC depending on how it's programmed). A perfectly symmetrically wound coil will still produce output and is a valid design choice that has its own character. The question is how much scatter and how it affects the sound.

You are right, though, that IIRC Gibson used winding machines and Fender was hand-wound (in the beginning at least). I just think that the amount of scatter isn't the same thing as hand vs machine wound.

In a related context, this is from Throbak and shows two coils wound on two different machines side-by-side. That part starts at 29:00 and he drops them both on the floor to demonstrate how they react differently to the application of force. My takeaway from this, among other things, is that if the two machines wound perfectly symmetrical coils, why would they end up being different shapes, so there has to be some variation in the winding pattern, that even if it's a regularly repeating pattern, can still be considered scatter.

 
what the crowd wants to know is:

When are you placing your orders, and what? With this kind of investment i/we hope for clips with as few changed variables as possible (use the same pick kinda thing).

OK, well, I've decided a few things and still have a couple of sets I'm thinking about. I've added a 4th guitar to the list of replacements and I've decided to include a set that I already have, but... I think I'm going to swap magnets in them, since I have a duplicate set in another guitar. Still have to decide on which mags to use, but I've got a pretty good idea.

For clips, well, I'd thought about that. I know there are a number of YT vids I've seen that are just not that good for one or more reasons... like not being able to really hear what the pickup sounds like because the amp was too overbearing, or using phone mics to record, or not doing back-to-back comparisons. Glad I have an answer for most of that in the AxeFX!

I'm thinking about finding 2 or 3 factory presets that really let the guitar shine through (so probably not any really high gain stuff). I can turn off any effects, just leaving the amp and cab blocks active and on the factory settings. And I can record directly. That should solve most of the problems I've seen except the production/editing, which I'm sure I can at least make a demo video that I'd personally want to watch.

Any suggestions for presets to use? I'm using an AxeFX III Mark II (non-Turbo) and was going to stick to the factory presets 19.04. I was thinking of one really clean preset, maybe a Fender or Vox. Another for EOB types. Possibly a medium gain type, maybe early ZZ Top or AC/DC kind of thing. That should cover most of the bases and show how the pickups react at different levels.

For the new sets, I'll probably install them in one guitar. I'm thinking about adding some of the other sets I have around, but I'm not sure it's worth it taking them out of the guitars that they're in. So, I might lust leave them in and note the differences in guitars. Then, after I've decided which new set will go in which guitar, do a final set comparing the sets that are in there now and the set each ends up with.

Here's what I'm thinking of including:
  • New Set 1 - Gibson Les Paul Standard '50s
  • New Set 2 - Gibson Les Paul Standard '50s
  • New Set 3 - Gibson Les Paul Standard '50s
  • New Set 4 - Gibson Les Paul Standard '50s
  • Gibson MHS - Gibson ES-345 TDVC
  • Gibson '57 Classic - Gibson ES-355 TDC
  • Gibson Burstbucker (2003) - Gibson Les Paul Custom 400
  • Gibson Custombucker - Gibson 1960 Les Paul Reissue
  • Gibson Series VII (1979) - Gibson ES-347 TDN
  • BKP Stormy Monday - PRS Hollowbody I
  • BKP The Mule - Gibson ES-335 DOT
  • BKP Riff Raff - Gibson SG Standard
  • BKP Black Dog - Gibson Explorer
  • Duncan Antiquity - Epiphone Emperor
I might include a BKP Rebel Yell, a Duncan Custom Custom (2002), and a Duncan Distortion (1999), just to provide some contrast with higher output pickups.

It'll take me a little while to put all that together after I get all the pickups, too, but I can start working on it now.

What do you (everyone) think? Anything you'd like me to do during the demos? Suggestions for presets?

And, with that, I'll say that I placed my first order tonight. Supposed to be here in about a week. I'll keep posting status here once they start coming in, too.
 
I'd certainly give this project a listen, but that's an awful lot of probably subtley different options to sort through. Not sure a winner would be clear, but that's a valid outcome too I guess. Not thinking they wouldn't sound different, just that it'd be hard to know what's "better", for what result, under what circumstances.
 
I have my own preset that i use to demo everything with, easy enough to roll your own. Fender clean, fender clean plus drive, marshall overdrive, boosted marshall. g-d-c chord progression for cleaner tones and a 3-chord progression with power chords for the higher gain tones. Basic, repeatable pentatonic lick for any lead showcase.

Just dont update firmware or save preset changes til the experiment is done unless you arent that worried about 1:1 clips haha.

I would separate your list into 3 or more groups. Sets 1-4, bkp, gibson hollowbody models, antiquity and R0 can be shorter and by themselves (unless you roll pickups in those guitars). Short and sweet is the goal.
 
OK, well, I've decided a few things and still have a couple of sets I'm thinking about. I've added a 4th guitar to the list of replacements and I've decided to include a set that I already have, but... I think I'm going to swap magnets in them, since I have a duplicate set in another guitar. Still have to decide on which mags to use, but I've got a pretty good idea.

For clips, well, I'd thought about that. I know there are a number of YT vids I've seen that are just not that good for one or more reasons... like not being able to really hear what the pickup sounds like because the amp was too overbearing, or using phone mics to record, or not doing back-to-back comparisons. Glad I have an answer for most of that in the AxeFX!

I'm thinking about finding 2 or 3 factory presets that really let the guitar shine through (so probably not any really high gain stuff). I can turn off any effects, just leaving the amp and cab blocks active and on the factory settings. And I can record directly. That should solve most of the problems I've seen except the production/editing, which I'm sure I can at least make a demo video that I'd personally want to watch.

Any suggestions for presets to use? I'm using an AxeFX III Mark II (non-Turbo) and was going to stick to the factory presets 19.04. I was thinking of one really clean preset, maybe a Fender or Vox. Another for EOB types. Possibly a medium gain type, maybe early ZZ Top or AC/DC kind of thing. That should cover most of the bases and show how the pickups react at different levels.

For the new sets, I'll probably install them in one guitar. I'm thinking about adding some of the other sets I have around, but I'm not sure it's worth it taking them out of the guitars that they're in. So, I might lust leave them in and note the differences in guitars. Then, after I've decided which new set will go in which guitar, do a final set comparing the sets that are in there now and the set each ends up with.

Here's what I'm thinking of including:
  • New Set 1 - Gibson Les Paul Standard '50s
  • New Set 2 - Gibson Les Paul Standard '50s
  • New Set 3 - Gibson Les Paul Standard '50s
  • New Set 4 - Gibson Les Paul Standard '50s
  • Gibson MHS - Gibson ES-345 TDVC
  • Gibson '57 Classic - Gibson ES-355 TDC
  • Gibson Burstbucker (2003) - Gibson Les Paul Custom 400
  • Gibson Custombucker - Gibson 1960 Les Paul Reissue
  • Gibson Series VII (1979) - Gibson ES-347 TDN
  • BKP Stormy Monday - PRS Hollowbody I
  • BKP The Mule - Gibson ES-335 DOT
  • BKP Riff Raff - Gibson SG Standard
  • BKP Black Dog - Gibson Explorer
  • Duncan Antiquity - Epiphone Emperor
I might include a BKP Rebel Yell, a Duncan Custom Custom (2002), and a Duncan Distortion (1999), just to provide some contrast with higher output pickups.

It'll take me a little while to put all that together after I get all the pickups, too, but I can start working on it now.

What do you (everyone) think? Anything you'd like me to do during the demos? Suggestions for presets?

And, with that, I'll say that I placed my first order tonight. Supposed to be here in about a week. I'll keep posting status here once they start coming in, too.
Just wondering, and apologies if you have mentioned this elsewhere, but what type of music do you play? I see several Gibson pickups listed here, and BTW, being uninformed, I was wondering what a Gibson MHS pickups is. Of the Gibson pickups, which would you say is the "warmest"? You have quite an impressive collection of guitars. I just wish I had not sold my Gold Top LP (either late 60's or early 70's), honestly I can't recall as I sold it probably almost 50 years ago. I bought it off of the classified ads from a woman who was selling her away at college son's guitar. I bet he was pissed! I really wish I could get a LP, rather than build one at this time, but I am scared of the quality issues many here have mentioned, and I haven't seen a good deal on a used one. The one for sale on the site here in Montana looks really nice but I am not near there, and I think it is priced a bit too high.
 
Just wondering, and apologies if you have mentioned this elsewhere, but what type of music do you play? I see several Gibson pickups listed here, and BTW, being uninformed, I was wondering what a Gibson MHS pickups is. Of the Gibson pickups, which would you say is the "warmest"? You have quite an impressive collection of guitars. I just wish I had not sold my Gold Top LP (either late 60's or early 70's), honestly I can't recall as I sold it probably almost 50 years ago. I bought it off of the classified ads from a woman who was selling her away at college son's guitar. I bet he was pissed! I really wish I could get a LP, rather than build one at this time, but I am scared of the quality issues many here have mentioned, and I haven't seen a good deal on a used one. The one for sale on the site here in Montana looks really nice but I am not near there, and I think it is priced a bit too high.
Not trying to stir up trouble, but if it's going to change your life, I wouldn't worry about "a bit too high" :)
 
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