Dave Merrill
Axe-Master
Keep us posted.There it is. Tuned the open E, then checked the two Gs. Will try it again tuning to the fretted G.
A truly solid approach to intonation would be great.
Keep us posted.There it is. Tuned the open E, then checked the two Gs. Will try it again tuning to the fretted G.
Not all guitars have the nut positioned well and they have to work with a variety of string gauges. This is as solid a method as a tempered instrument can have. If it doesn't work for you you need to develop a tempering method that suits your playing style and what you play. Perfectly in tune across ALL the frets is impossible.Keep us posted.
A truly solid approach to intonation would be great.
Will try it again tuning the 3rd fret note and testing the 15th fret note.Keep us posted.
A truly solid approach to intonation would be great.
It will show you if the nut is actually helping anything. Remember the version that slides backwards and forward to fine tune the distance to the first fret? You set these by intonating 3rd to 15th and then sliding the nut to set the open string to be in tune when you tuned at the 3rd fret . If this is incorrect the nut is in the wrong place.Will try it again tuning the 3rd fret note and testing the 15th fret note.
Stay tuned....
Rory's is the one that drops into the LSR nut slot. No fine tuning possible.... Same with the Warmoth neck on my Strat. My Strat's original neck has the fine tuneable one. Been thinking ablout putting one of those on my red Fender Tele....It will show you if the nut is actually helping anything. Remember the version that slides backwards and forward to fine tune the distance to the first fret?
Report back if it tunes correctly. I would honestly have my doubts. It is so critical a design the distance to the first fret will totally govern if it actually helps . BUT even if it is out generally it will still help the differential intervals sound better across strings. Thirds in minor chords with distortion from E shape to A shape is a good test.Rory's is the one that drops into the LSR nut slot. No fine tuning possible.... Same with the Warmoth neck on my Strat. My Strat's original neck has the fine tuneable one. Been thinking ablout putting one of those on my red Fender Tele....
Perfectly in tune across ALL the frets is impossible.
Before you put the plate on it, the figuring looks like some sort of ewok or woodland creature raising its hands up in celebration and has a big gaping birth canal on its tummy!
Accumulating parts for a project....
Report back if it tunes correctly. I would honestly have my doubts. It is so critical a design the distance to the first fret will totally govern if it actually helps .
BUT even if it is out generally it will still help the differential intervals sound better across strings. Thirds in minor chords with distortion from E shape to A shape is a good test.
When intonated so 12th fret is in tune, the chords played up the neck are very in tune with themselves, with E, A and D shapes, as well as C shape.
The newer ones with stainless steel frets are ok if the playability is perfect BUT future fretwork of any type puts me off owning one.How do you like the True Temperament necks? I like the idea of being a little closer to in tune with major and minor 3rds. Honestly the big thing holding me back from one of those would be the lack of choice in neck profile.
Quite a rabbit hole once you start .Got through intonation tweaks on 11 guitars this evening, with a bit of play test time on each. Each sounds a couple percent better. Easiest of the bunch? The Sterling Cutlass.
Literally only adjusted 2 saddles a quarter turn from the 12th-fret method's settings. The PRS gang were all pretty close with the 12th-fret method, but all sound better now. Worst of the bunch to get right? The Fender Tele. Got it playing better than it was, but gonna have to get the adjustable Earvana for Fenders and replace the factory nut, methinks....
Additionally, swapped the original Tune-O-Matic bridge back onto the Gretsch. The TonePro roller bridge wasn't hitting the mark for a couple strings, due to the bulkiness of the roller saddles and the angle Gretsch uses for their bridges. Sounds great after the adjustments....
That’s the first thing that comes to mind with these. You might be able to level them all right, but how would you begin to replace a fret?The newer ones with stainless steel frets are ok if the playability is perfect BUT future fretwork of any type puts me off owning one.
You must be one of those people who looks at clouds and say "Hey, that one looks like The Last Supper"Before you put the plate on it, the figuring looks like some sort of ewok or woodland creature raising its hands up in celebration and has a big gaping birth canal on its tummy!
BUSTED.. I also like to annoy my wife with, "Hey she looks like that one broad in that other show with those other broads? That not her???" (I enjoy using the word broad a lot too because it makes it things more not appropriate.)You must be one of those people who looks at clouds and say "Hey, that one looks like The Last Supper"
Well, that's just a broad generalization, innit?(I enjoy using the word broad a lot too because it makes it things more not appropriate.)
Re/crowning is virtually impossible and refrets would be impossible without their tooling.That’s the first thing that comes to mind with these. You might be able to level them all right, but how would you begin to replace a fret?