Humbuster cables

m lebofsky said:
If you don't have ground loop problems to begin with, will these special cables serve any purpose ?
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This feature and the special cables it needs are intended to reduce ground loop problems. If you have no ground loop problems, there's nothing to fix, and no benefit to the cables.
 
bkrumme said:
I went on the search for some TRS-TS cables for the Humbuster outputs on the Axe-Fx II. Couldn't find any that met the wiring spec, so I e-mailed Brian at Best-Tronics. He put a couple together for me. $18.91 a piece for 3 foot long cables with gold G&H connectors on them. Not a bad deal.

Here's the cable he used: Best-Tronics Mfg., Inc.: CA-0351OFHC

And here's the connectors:
TS: Best-Tronics Mfg., Inc.: BF2P-BGG
TRS: Best-Tronics Mfg., Inc.: BF3PM-BGGG

I also let him know he may be hearing from more people about these. So shoot them an e-mail and they can make them for you if you need them.
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ordered a set of these, thanks for the info
 
wezx said:
With a small amount of practice you can make your own cables with the same type of quality for a fraction of the cost of "boutique" cable makers. Not so sure I agree with their contention that G&H plugs and CGI cable are the "best". You can buy an awful lot of Belden & Neutrik cable components for what they're charging.
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opening up a huge can of worms again, but, why would spend so much $$ for an axe fx then use dumpy brand x cables? i've personally noticed a difference using g&h plugs over switchcraft, not so much over neutrik. you kind of get diminishing returns.

there's also lavacable.com, if you like, but they have primo stuff. they have sales every once in a while, or, if you can find those brands online like ebay and buy some, you can just build them yourself. very easy with the right tools. look up the evidence audio construction videos on youtube.
 
mejoshee said:
opening up a huge can of worms again, but, why would spend so much $$ for an axe fx then use dumpy brand x cables? i've personally noticed a difference using g&h plugs over switchcraft, not so much over neutrik. you kind of get diminishing returns.

there's also lavacable.com, if you like, but they have primo stuff. they have sales every once in a while, or, if you can find those brands online like ebay and buy some, you can just build them yourself. very easy with the right tools. look up the evidence audio construction videos on youtube.
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Two things:

-I usually have some sort of protective system (see my 'garden hose' post), so I have no problems using 'regular' cables (cheapies don't seem worth the trouble...at least get mid range ones that will last for more than one gig...)
-Some of us do not have the time or the inclination to make cables. Just don't care. If I can log onto a site and get these peripherals sent to me in 5 business days, I'm good. Back to playing guitar. Saving $15 but spending 2 hours making one doesn't make cents (natch) to me...time more valuable to me.

IMO.
 
Did anyone notice a difference using these humbuster cables? The little bit of hum from my rig is coming, actually, from the VHT power amp. When I use OUT 1 balanced connections to nearfield monitors, there´s no hum present.
 
iggypop said:
Did anyone notice a difference using these humbuster cables? The little bit of hum from my rig is coming, actually, from the VHT power amp. When I use OUT 1 balanced connections to nearfield monitors, there´s no hum present.
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To be honest, the noise floor of the Axe-Fx II is already super low as long as you have the input trim set for optimum Signal/Noise ratio (meters "kiss" the red LED every so often). I haven't noticed much difference.
 
Maybe I am not up to full performance but Still I do not understand

I plug in the Stereo Plug to the AXE and the Mono to the Amp.But shouldnd there be annother cable/line to connect to ground?

Thanks for light in my darkeness

Roland

EDIT-->Got it now by the Wiki.1 remaining questions-->does the length matter?
 
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DieSchmalle said:
The easiest way of building your own humbuster cable is to buy a stereo cable (double TRS). Open one plug, solder ground and ring together. Mark that plug to be the amp side. Finished!
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Better to just buy a ts connector too and leave the shield disconnected.......no labeling necessary
 
Hooking my Axe-Fx II to the return of any of my amps (all Acoustic Image Clarus) has been producing a high-frequency whistle and a buzz, both of low volume, but noticeable in a quiet room, regardless of which output or settings on the II. I made up a Humbuster cable by modifying a TRS cable and it cured the problem.

Note that remote ground sensing has been commonly used in electronic instrumentation for years--I was using it in products I designed more than fifty years ago. It's especially common with milivolt-level sensors like strain gauges.

Danny W.
 
The "Humbuster" effect works the same, no matter what the length is. The wires connected to the ring and sleeve of the TRS connector will always have identical length.

You're correct: all cables—balanced or not—should be as short as possible, for several reasons. But with line-level signals and well-shielded cable, there will be no audible difference between a half-meter and 20 meters, unless you're in a wickedly noisy environment.
 
Danny W. said:
Hooking my Axe-Fx II to the return of any of my amps (all Acoustic Image Clarus) has been producing a high-frequency whistle and a buzz, both of low volume, but noticeable in a quiet room, regardless of which output or settings on the II. I made up a Humbuster cable by modifying a TRS cable and it cured the problem.

Note that remote ground sensing has been commonly used in electronic instrumentation for years--I was using it in products I designed more than fifty years ago. It's especially common with milivolt-level sensors like strain gauges.

Danny W.
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Yup, sometimes those old techniques are great for solving modern problems.
 
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