FAMC LF+ with Axe-Fx II - Quick Start Guide and Template:

My gripe about the coupler and the perhaps the LF power supply itself, is that they aren't right angles. The plug with the adaptor sticks out pretty far and it's at risk for getting bent. If it was a right angle, I'd duct tape that thing into place. LOL.

If you have any questions, post them and I'll see what I can do.
 
none of us like manuals, do we? We like to learn the old fashioned Indian way - sitting around the fire and telling stories.

It is the nature of forums such as these, to find the same questions being asked over and over. With so many thousands of pages of text, this site becomes a manual, and new guys don't have the time to sift through the backlog to see if their question has already been answered.....so they ask.

I did a video of the back of my rack and the LF power supply with the adapter into the AXE with a 7-pin cable to the pedal. I had this on the LF site for a while, but again, with 100's of pages, you'd never find it. We sort of need a WIKI page for the Liquid Foot.

Guys wouldn't read it. They'd ask their question anyways, but if we had a Wiki, we could just link to the answer, without having to type it again. LOL
 
I'm a long time internet forum/community visitor, so I typically use the search functions first, or at least visually peruse forums relevant to the question at hand. In this case I couldn't find anything on FAMC's community forums, and didn't really expect to find detailed answers here (considering this is Fractals forums, not FAMC's :) ).

That said, I tend to refer to manuals first, then search for resolutions on the internet if I don't find anything. I don't RTFM out of the box, but I do use them as reference materials from time to time. :D

I'm just glad there are folks like you, AZG, ethomas, et al who are willing to share their experiences with us n00bs and help get us up to speed and running in no time.

/twoThumbsUp

A LF wiki would be awesome. Unfortunately, as already discovered, documentation isn't FAMC's strong point. If they had someone like Yek over there who would jump start it, that wold be awesome.
 
I'm glad that power supply issue got figured out. I guess I should update that part of the starter guide to be clearer. Anyone have any photos of the power supply and reducer do hickey thing? Mines taped into place and not really visible. Any other suggested changes besides moving the tuner and tap tempo to different buttons. Not sure where to move it yet, but I hate losing a button to something I don't use all the time.


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In that case, you might be prime for making one button a "jump to page xxx" button. Then on the page you are jumping to, make sure that same button is the "jump back to my main page number XXX".

On that child page, you can have your tap and tuner, then jump back to where you began. Or if you want to get fancy, put the "jump back to main page XXX" command into the BYPASS side of your tuner IA slot. That way when you deactivate your tuner, your pedal reverts to your primary page automatically. I just made that up - so test it before you use it at Live Aid at RFK. (but really it should work).
 
I once drew a web of pages. I decided that my home page would jump me to a shortcut directory page. Most of the buttons there, would lead me to gear specific pages, or looper specific, that type of thing. Those child pages would have a button to return me to the directory page, or all the way back to the main performance page....but then I realized, I have a life, and I didn't need that kind of control. But it is totally possible.
 
rodzimguitar68 said:
In that case, you might be prime for making one button a "jump to page xxx" button. Then on the page you are jumping to, make sure that same button is the "jump back to my main page number XXX".

On that child page, you can have your tap and tuner, then jump back to where you began. Or if you want to get fancy, put the "jump back to main page XXX" command into the BYPASS side of your tuner IA slot. That way when you deactivate your tuner, your pedal reverts to your primary page automatically. I just made that up - so test it before you use it at Live Aid at RFK. (but really it should work).
Click to expand...

I might try something like this. Maybe have the button that currently jumps to the looper page or preset page jump to a "jump page" and have the tuner and buttons to jump to other pages there. I guess I will need to try it and see if it gets too clunky.


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I have a +12, but not a +12+, so it became impossible to remember what feature was lurking under the buttons.

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WEWT! Figured this sucker out!!!

Now I've got everything configured and working. Both Mission SP1-LF's are set up so I can assign anything to them I want (didn't have to use the IA trick either). Screen shot below.

Red SP1-LF
Out 1 (rocker) -> LF Expr 1 input
Out 2 (toe switch) -> LF Expr 2 input

Black SP1-LF
Out 1 (rocker) -> LF Expr 3 input
Out 2 (toe switch) -> LF Expr 4 input

20140428_094951.jpg


1 and 3 control sweep of any effect while 2 and 4 act as engage/bypass (on/off) switches for anything I assign them to.

Axe_LFPro_Expression1-2-3-4.jpg


This has been a HUGELY productive day. I was able to remove 2 extraneous midi cables and the phantom box AND get everything configured, working, and controlling my Axe the way I want it to.

Lovin this controller and the ME SP1-LF's. Best control setup I've had for any of my rigs since the history of, well, ever. :D
 
The Pro+ is set up very simply at the moment.

1st row - buttons 1 - 8 are current banks presets
2nd row - button 1 is bank down, buttons 2 through 8 are scenes 1 through 7.
3rd row - button 1 is bank up, button 2 is tuner, buttons 3 through 8 are IA/effects I want direct access to.
Red SP1 = wah
Black SP1 = volume (pedal) + boost (toe switch)

I'm in the process of reworking all of my presets so they're built pretty much the same (IE, same effects in the same slots, so routing remains constant across all presets, just changing out component types as needed, but Drive 1 is always in the same slot, Amp 1 is in the same slot, and so on). Will make preset management and control much easier over time. I haven't even gotten into song lists or anything like that...yet. :D

I'm sure I'll find more advanced ways to set this up as I dig deeper into it, but for now this meets my needs and provides similar functionality to what I'm accustomed to from the Line 6 FBV's I've used with my Vetta II combo and HD100 head.
 
EJ James said:
WEWT! Figured this sucker out!!!

Now I've got everything configured and working. :D
Click to expand...

I noticed you have a TC Electronic Gmajor 2. If you want that to respond to tap tempo, you'll have to use the stomp mode of an IA slot, instead of a tap IA mode. Because the Gmaj2 wants to measure alternating taps of 127,0,127,0, while the axe fx and most other gear simply measure 127,127,127,127. So program an IA slot for tap tempo, but use the STOMP mode. For the Gmaj midi channel, use it's tap CC# and put an on message of 127 and off of 0. For your other midi gear, put 127 on both sides of the IA.

Tap Tempo IA slot.jpg
 
Last edited:
Good to know. Thanks.

For now the GMajor isn't being used in this setup. It's part of a bass rig I'd put together using the POD XT Pro (loaded with the L6 bass exp pack). I may incorporate it later if I need more advanced effects routing, but right now it's a very simple setup with the AxeFX and controllers only.

The possibilities are endless though. :D
 
Bear in mind that you can enter those other gizmos as devices in your global 1 page. You can even have the foundation of programming commands entered in songs and presets, but separate those commands from the active ones by dragging an empty slot between the active commands and the inactive. Lf ignores anything after it encounters an empty programming line.

To reactivate those lines, simply drag the empty line out of the way.

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I updated the first post and template to version 1.1. This version includes some of the suggestions others made to make it better including putting tap tempo and the tuner on separate buttons and a new "Jump Page" making it easier to move between pages. Check out the first post for more details.
 
AZG said:
Using 1 MIDI cable, connect the MIDI Out on the LF+ to MIDI IN on the Axe2. I use a single 7 pin MIDI cable with the LF+ power adapter plugged directly into the "Phantom Power" port on the back of the Axe2 (small adapter plug required) to transfer power and data between the units.
Click to expand...

Can you explain this a little further? I receive an JR+ today and it came with a power adapter with like 20 attachments but no MIDI cable nor instruction on how to connect (even online). I have standard MIDI cables but I'm not sure exactly what you mean by what I highlighted in bold above. Sorry for my inexperience at this - any help would be greatly appreciated!

Tony
 
You need to buy a 7-pin MIDI cable. This will allow two-way communication between the LF+ and the AxeFX as well as phantom power to the LF+ all through the one 7-pin cable.

I don't have the adapters that they now provide, I'm using their phantom power box. But with the adapters you should be able to plug the LF+ power supply into the phantom power jack on the back of the AxeII and the power will go through the 7-pin cable. Plug the 7-pin cable from the MIDI Out on the LF+ to the MIDI In on the AxeII.

The Rocktron 7-pin cable is working fine for me, but I have seen some reports of that cable not working for others.

Hope that helps.
 
EJ James said:
Yep. That's how I've got mine connected now, and it's working as intended. No phantom power box, no extra midi cables, nada. Single 7 pin cable from the pedal to the Axe and the LF power supply plugged directly into the back of the Axe using the "plug reducer" that came with the LF.
Click to expand...

So I did just now read through this ENTIRE thread, and I THINK I know what you're saying but let me just suimmarize. There is a main plug "unit" where you can plug in one of the 5 adapters that come with it depending on your country that goes to the outlet. On the OTHER side of that plug unit is the smal round plug that normally plugs directly into the LF unit. So INSTEAD of plugging that side of the plug directly into the LF you first plug it into the "coupler" adapter and then DIRECTLY into the back of the Axe FX (right over the MIDI ports) INSTEAD of into the LF unit. Then you plug in the 7 pin MIDI cable from the MIDI-OUT on the LF into the MIDI-IN on the Axe FX. Power is transfered through the MIDI cable from the Axe FX to the FL and a single cable provides two way communication between the units. Is this correct?

If so, is a 7 PIN MIDI the same as a standard MIDI cable I use for mostother MIDI things or a "special" one that can transmit power as well as MIDI data.

Secondly, are will all SURE that this will not damage the Axe FX in any way? The Axe FX 2 manual say this: "WARNING! Do not connect an AC adapter with a rating higher than 1A to the Phantom Power jack. Doing so will damage your Axe-Fx II."

Note that I have the newer XL with a seperate MIDI out which I assume makes no diference to the above.
 
Tones2. Plug it in. It works. Yes, you understand what to do. I've had mine for 2 years, and no problems using a 7-pin cable.

Midi class 101: Midi plugs are generally 5-pins. However, the actual MIDI information only rides on 3 of those pins. The other pins are usually not used! However, some devices were made when 5-pin was the only thing available (my Voodoo Labs GCX switcher has this issue) and they use 2 of the pins to supply voltage, to their voodoo labs Ground Control foot controller. The danger is that if I were to plug a standard 5-pin midi cable into the Midi In of the GCX switcher, and connect the other end of the cable to another device, such as my Axe FX, I would be frying my Axe Fx unit. Some cable manufacturers offer a midi cable that, although has a 5-pin jack at each end, they've intensionally not wired two of the pins (the two that Voodoo Labs uses to supply voltage from the GCX switcher to the Ground Control). You either have to use that kind of specially wired MIDI cable (I do) or you have to break off those pins to short that connection from accidentally being made.
To avoid frequent occurrences of accidents happening, someone introduced 7-pin connections. Now, really, MIDI is still only on 3 of the pins, two of the pins have nothing going on, even though they are wired inside, and the 2 new pins have voltage. The advantage is, I can't accidentally plug a 7-pin with voltage riding through it, into a 5-pin midi device and fry it!

I think manufacturers are moving away from putting voltage through 5-pin connections anymore. Now, people have come to expect that a 5-pin has no voltage, and a 7-pin might have voltage - so they are more careful. People who purchase a GCX switcher and don't read the manual carefully, will fry other gear by accident.

Use your Liquid Foot. Use the 7-pin cable, so you can leave the LF's wall wart power supply in your rack, and not out at your pedal position on the stage.
 
rodzimguitar68 said:
Tones2. Plug it in. It works. Yes, you understand what to do. I've had mine for 2 years, and no problems using a 7-pin cable.

Midi class 101: Midi plugs are generally 5-pins. However, the actual MIDI information only rides on 3 of those pins. The other pins are usually not used! However, some devices were made when 5-pin was the only thing available (my Voodoo Labs GCX switcher has this issue) and they use 2 of the pins to supply voltage, to their voodoo labs Ground Control foot controller. The danger is that if I were to plug a standard 5-pin midi cable into the Midi In of the GCX switcher, and connect the other end of the cable to another device, such as my Axe FX, I would be frying my Axe Fx unit. Some cable manufacturers offer a midi cable that, although has a 5-pin jack at each end, they've intensionally not wired two of the pins (the two that Voodoo Labs uses to supply voltage from the GCX switcher to the Ground Control). You either have to use that kind of specially wired MIDI cable (I do) or you have to break off those pins to short that connection from accidentally being made.
To avoid frequent occurrences of accidents happening, someone introduced 7-pin connections. Now, really, MIDI is still only on 3 of the pins, two of the pins have nothing going on, even though they are wired inside, and the 2 new pins have voltage. The advantage is, I can't accidentally plug a 7-pin with voltage riding through it, into a 5-pin midi device and fry it!

I think manufacturers are moving away from putting voltage through 5-pin connections anymore. Now, people have come to expect that a 5-pin has no voltage, and a 7-pin might have voltage - so they are more careful. People who purchase a GCX switcher and don't read the manual carefully, will fry other gear by accident.

Use your Liquid Foot. Use the 7-pin cable, so you can leave the LF's wall wart power supply in your rack, and not out at your pedal position on the stage.
Click to expand...

Thanks! One quick follow-up. So in the interim before I get a 7 pin MIDI cable, can I just plud the wall wart directly into the LF unit and use a standard 5 pin MIDI cable to connect between the LF (MIDI out) and Axe FX (MIDI in) without damaging either unit AND have 2 way communication?
 
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