FAMC LF+ with Axe-Fx II - Quick Start Guide and Template:

I don't know how complex your rig is, but you can look at the midi implementation charts for every piece of gear you have in your rig, and put a mark beside each feature that can be controlled via CC commands, that is important to you, and something you would frequently want to be able to control with MIDI. Assign each piece of MIDI gear to a different MIDI channel. Enter the name of the gear next to its appropriate midi channel on the Global 1 tab of the Liquid Foot editor. Such as "Axe FX II - midi 1", "Strymon Timeline - midi 2", "GCX switcher - midi 16". Now when you place midi commands in the command lines of liquid foot presets, or songs, the name of the device will be in the drop down list, instead of sterile midi channel numbers.

Back to my opening sentence. Suppose you only have an Axe FX II. The midi implementation chart shows CC numbers, and scenes show a CC number and a value. Create IA slots for every CC that you want to frequently control. For ease of operation, you could simply stop at creating 8 IA slots - 1 for each scene, and be done. But of course, we want instant access within a scene of various effects, so you are probably going to create IA slots for each effect block, AND each X/Y state of each effect block too. For ease of logic, I placed my effect on/off IA and then its X/Y IA right after the effect. (IA Maps were not available when I programmed my device).

Okay, now you know which effects you want to be able to designate as on or off, and whether you're going to use its X or Y state (if it is available in the Axe).

Let's PRETEND you only want to control distortion, chorus, reverb, and delay and NOTHING ELSE. You would create an IA slot with the appropriate CC number and a 127 value for ON, and a 0 value for BYPASS.

You can create a Liquid foot pedal board (called a PAGE) and typically, you'll run things with a bottom row of presets, and the other buttons being Instant on/off's for your effects, plus other buttons for stuff like bank up/down, tuner, tap tempo, etc.

In our pretend world you only have 4 effects.

But what if you begin a song with 2 off and 2 on, but in the middle of the song, you want all 4 on, and then 2 measures later, all 4 off at the same time. You either need to grow more legs, OR, you need to create 3 liquid foot presets. Preset 1 is how the song begins with 2 effects on, preset 2 has all 4 on, and preset 3 has all 4 BYPASS (do not confuse OFF or Block, with BYPASS). On the liquid foot preset screen the little circles can be green to send the on message, and red to send bypass, they can remain gray to be in the OFF mode, which sends no message at all (think of OFF as "completely ignore like it's not even there, dude"). An example of when to leave your IA slot set to OFF, would, in our example be, in the case where you have an IA slot for Chorus, but in fact the Axe FX preset you created for the song, didn't use the Chorus effect block in the signal chain. It is pointless to make the Liquid Foot send a MIDI command for On or Bypass, when you did not include a Chorus effect block on the Axe. This is useful with complex systems with 60-180 slots - create presets that turn on the appropriate stuff, or that Bypass (turn off) the appropriate stuff. Use the OFF setting to ignore the non-essential IA slots in that preset.

When you have your 3 custom presets, you can access them by putting the pedal in preset mode. The page you created, that has 4 preset buttons along the bottom row, will only have the first 3 button lit, because right now, you are new, and only have created 3 presets - you don't have a 4th yet.

If you play in a band that has 20 songs, and you create sometimes 1 preset, 2 presets, 3 presets, 4,5,6,7,8 presets to get all the way through a song, you can create and name 20 song holders and then drop your presets that are relevant to that song, into the song. You can then enter your Program Change command in the song command lines, or you can choose to enter the Program Change command in the first preset of that song, so that your Axe FX will change to the proper preset whenever you want to play that song. You could then put your pedal into song mode, but actually it makes more sense to create a set list, and drop your 20 songs into the set list in the order you are planning to play them, and then put your pedal into set list mode, and choose the set list you just created for tonight's gig. Next time you power on your unit, it will be waiting for you at song one. If you turn on your rack FIRST, and THEN plug in your Liquid Foot, when it boots up, it will send the appropriate Program Change to your rig, to change everything to the patches you'll need for song 1 of the set. Once you become more comfortable you can do other things in your rig to make your life easier.

I made a dummy song called "END OF SET" and I made that song 1 in my system. I did this because whatever you create as song 1, gets populated in every slot of a set list. Set lists hold 60 songs, so if you created 20 songs, and put them into a set list, your set list would be those 20 songs, and 40 repeated occurances of song 1 in your system. Let's say, out of excitement, on day 1 you created a song FREEBIRD. And it's a valid song, with 4 presets - verse, chorus, bridge, solo. Now everytime you make a set list, you'll have 60 FREEBIRDS in the blank set, and the other songs occupying the first 20 slots. My "END OF SET" song is special, it uses a pedalboard page, that has nothing else on it, but a song down button. So if I reach the END OF SET song in a set list by using the song up button on the last song of my set, when the system scrolls to that fake END OF SET song, the only direction I can go is backwards, down through my set list again. Very useful if I'm using 20 songs, song 21 is that fake END OF SET song (and so are slots 22-60 since END OF SET is song 1 in my system), so when I reach that song, I can only go back down. I can't accidentally scroll up through 10 END OF SET songs, and be on song 30 by mistake.
 
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There are quite a few + series videos out there. Helped me get up and running. If you think this is bad, be glad you didn't buy one of the original units (the original series, before the +... I've still got my old Pro)! The auto-programming wizards etc. work fine for me, and we didn't have any of it way back when. It was sheer madness.

Yep, that was one of the main reasons I didn't buy a JR 3 and a half years ago! The + units came out and I had no interest in purchasing at that time either, but I kept a curious eye out for what was going on with them since then. It's only been the last few months and associated fw feature additions/editor upgrades that have made me curious again. It does seem easier to me now to decipher ways to use the LF+ unit that will be a step up from my current workflow.

Due in no small part to helpful posts on the FAMC forum involving participants in this very thread, watching videos, RTFM and playing with the editor, I've deemed the potential payoff to headache ratio worth it now and I'm jumping in.

My JR+ should be here next week.

Time will tell if I'm as prepared as I hope I am! :shock :lol
 
I made a dummy song called "END OF SET" and I made that song 1 in my system. I did this because whatever you create as song 1, gets populated in every slot of a set list. Set lists hold 60 songs, so if you created 20 songs, and put them into a set list, your set list would be those 20 songs, and 40 repeated occurances of song 1 in your system. Let's say, out of excitement, on day 1 you created a song FREEBIRD. And it's a valid song, with 4 presets - verse, chorus, bridge, solo. Now everytime you make a set list, you'll have 60 FREEBIRDS in the blank set, and the other songs occupying the first 20 slots. My "END OF SET" song is special, it uses a pedalboard page, that has nothing else on it, but a song down button. So if I reach the END OF SET song in a set list by using the song up button on the last song of my set, when the system scrolls to that fake END OF SET song, the only direction I can go is backwards, down through my set list again. Very useful if I'm using 20 songs, song 21 is that fake END OF SET song (and so are slots 22-60 since END OF SET is song 1 in my system), so when I reach that song, I can only go back down. I can't accidentally scroll up through 10 END OF SET songs, and be on song 30 by mistake.

Great tip, and a trap I would've fallen right into. Well, not FREEBIRD, but I am intending to use Set List level programming in certain situations.
 
My go to reference is usually Stairway, but I thought I'd change it up for this example. lol

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I updated the first post to try and make it easier for first time users. Please let me know if anything is still not clear or working.
 
AZG, first off I'm sorry my frustration hijacked the thread but maybe it has a sliver lining. Thank you for understanding the need and taking the time to start the conversation about the LF. This topic has come up before and gets a fair amount of attention. I see your update and I will be going to my dungeon to check it out when I'm done here. Thank you for dumbing it down when it became clear that is what was needed. I'm familiar with CC#'s , program changes and midi channels. I get I/A's, scenes and X/Y states conceptually. My previous midi controller was a Ground Control, not pro. I only used preset changes. That is all I want to do right now. Get up and running for my next few gigs and get deeper at another time.

Rodzimguitar68, thank you for taking the time for a well thought out overview. It helped me to understand how to think about the LF. As stated above I don't want to go that big just yet. Earlier in the thread you said it would help if I stated what I wanted to do, what I'm using and what I play. Axe and Roland synth, hence two different midi channels. I just want to step through presets for now, no IA's on or off, no scenes or X/Y for now. I play in a classic rock band and have all my tones and presets in the Axe set up. None of my Axe presets are complicated in any way. It's really the manual and instructions for the editor that burns my ass. I can be thickheaded but this is not on me (not saying you did).

Hope this thread continues.

Cliff had to be smirking if he read this.
 
AZG, first off I'm sorry my frustration hijacked the thread but maybe it has a sliver lining. Thank you for understanding the need and taking the time to start the conversation about the LF. This topic has come up before and gets a fair amount of attention. I see your update and I will be going to my dungeon to check it out when I'm done here. Thank you for dumbing it down when it became clear that is what was needed. I'm familiar with CC#'s , program changes and midi channels. I get I/A's, scenes and X/Y states conceptually. My previous midi controller was a Ground Control, not pro. I only used preset changes. That is all I want to do right now. Get up and running for my next few gigs and get deeper at another time.

Rodzimguitar68, thank you for taking the time for a well thought out overview. It helped me to understand how to think about the LF. As stated above I don't want to go that big just yet. Earlier in the thread you said it would help if I stated what I wanted to do, what I'm using and what I play. Axe and Roland synth, hence two different midi channels. I just want to step through presets for now, no IA's on or off, no scenes or X/Y for now. I play in a classic rock band and have all my tones and presets in the Axe set up. None of my Axe presets are complicated in any way. It's really the manual and instructions for the editor that burns my ass. I can be thickheaded but this is not on me (not saying you did).

Hope this thread continues.

Cliff had to be smirking if he read this.
Trust me, most of us know your frustration so no need to apologize. The documentation and out of the box experience of the LF+ series sucks. No other way to put it. I have nowhere near the knowledge of Rodzimguitar68 of the LF+ and this template is probably nowhere close to perfect. Actually I think there is a mistake in my setup when clicking the Looper button. Seems that it screws up Scenes. Anyone else notice this issue? But it should get you a heck of a lot further along than going it alone. Good luck and report back what you find.
 
Ok, progress. AZG, your update allowed me to get started. Although the different I/A's and scenes are confusing the point is it worked. I have yet to transfer my presets to the LF but I now have a starting point. That's probably gonna be it for the weekend as I have gigs and need to put my old pedalboard back together and learn two new songs. Thanks for your template. Relief feels good. I'll post again next week when I get stuck.
 
Ok, progress. AZG, your update allowed me to get started. Although the different I/A's and scenes are confusing the point is it worked. I have yet to transfer my presets to the LF but I now have a starting point. That's probably gonna be it for the weekend as I have gigs and need to put my old pedalboard back together and learn two new songs. Thanks for your template. Relief feels good. I'll post again next week when I get stuck.

Learn to use scenes on the Axe and you won't need to change presets or use ai's very often. That's why I made scenes the main focus of the first page. Really very useful once you wrap your head around them.


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Step 1: Connections
Using 1 MIDI cable, connect the MIDI Out on the LF+ to MIDI IN on the Axe2. I use a single 7 pin MIDI cable with the LF+ power adapter plugged into the back of the Axe2 to transfer power and data between the units.

Just wanted to point out that this is STRONGLY recommended against doing. Jeff has stated several times in several places that doing this can (and likely WILL) damage the AxeFX. FAMC provides a phantom power supply module that will safely enable a single 7 pin MIDI cable for midi in/out/power.

I've got my Pro+ set up now to control up/down banks, presets, scenes, and the IA's I want direct access to. Still having some trouble understanding how to get my SP1-LF expression pedal toe switch configured to enable/bypass a wah. I've got the rocker controlling the sweep, but the toe switch bit is still escaping me.
 
FAMC sells the Axe Fx II adaptor which changes the size of the jack so you can leave your LF power supply in your rack and power your pedal via a 7-pin connector. The power supply you are refering to is for people that arent using an axe fx or some other piece of gear that can "pass through" the LF's power. If your first statement is true, it means FAMC sold me a power coupler converter that, if used, will cause damage to my pedal. And to make matters worse, 6 months after I had my pedal, my coupler broke and I emailed a photo to Jeff, and he mailed a replacement immediately. It is labeled "power coupler", not "self-destruct mechanism".

What FAMC does strongly prohibit is for you to connect your pedal to your axe fx with 2 midi cables between the 2 devices. This will cause an endless circle of midi confusion.

You can make an IA slot with the commands for ON and Bypass of the wah effect. Then go into the global 1 tab and enter that ia slot number as the function 2 for that expression pedal jack.

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Just wanted to point out that this is STRONGLY recommended against doing. Jeff has stated several times in several places that doing this can (and likely WILL) damage the AxeFX. FAMC provides a phantom power supply module that will safely enable a single 7 pin MIDI cable for midi in/out/power.

I see on the LF website that they now offer an AxeFX compatible adapter with coupler when you buy a new unit (this is not the phantom power box, that's still listed as a separate item). So, if you get one of those I assume this is solved?. I don't have one, but I did open a support ticked to ask how to buy one. Been a week and I'm still waiting for an answer...
 
Can someone post a pic of this "coupler", because when I got my pedal I don't recall getting anything like this. The power adapter comes with several different plugs that look more like an international power connector kit.

My only real complaint about this controller is FAMC's lackluster documentation. As someone else pointed out, they need to approach it from the angle that the person reading them isn't intimately familiar with the unit. It makes way too many assumptions.

It's possible I have the coupler, but nothing in the box was labeled. In fact, I didn't get a response to my inquiry when I asked what I would need to provide phantom power to the controller from an AxeFX, so when my unit was finally ready I just ordered the phantom adapter just to be safe. I still haven't seen anything definitive on the FAMC website beyond the warning to not connect the power supply directly to the Axe.

Oh well, learn something new every day. If I *do* have this coupler I can pull the phantom box out of the mix and remove some extraneous cabling. Wouldn't hurt my feelings. :D

Thanks to you both (rodzimguitar68 and ethomas1013) for the info.
 
Oh now I understand. The axe has a port on the back to plug the original wall wart of the LF into. Size matters. So you have to order the resizer do-hickey. When you plug in
your LF wall wart into that port in the axe, it connects it to 2 of the wires in a 7-pin connector to power your pedal on the stage. Im explaining this not for you, but anyone else that is tuning in.

You can also just plug the power supply directly into the LF pedal from your spot on the stage. So you will need electricity pulled to that location. If you run stompboxes beside your LF or on an elaborate pedal board, you are already accustomed to needing electricity or an extension cord.

However, if you are controlling a device in your rack that is older, it may not have a 7-pin midi in. It might have a 5-pin. In that situation FAMC makes the power supply EJ bought. It has a 7-pin in and a 5-pin thru. So you leave it in your rack. Run a short 5-pin midi cable into your first rack device (the one that did not have a 7-pin midi in jack). You then still use a 7-pin between that power supply box and your LF pedal to to your spot on the stage.

If you have an axe fx, you don't need the special power supply. But as in EJ's case, he has an Axe Fx AND the special power supply. He cannot use it the way a standard LF wall wart can be used. He cannot plug the special power supply into the port on the axe fx, to send voltage to his LF or he will probably fry something.

So, yes, you need the simple coupler for axe fx ii. You probably don't have one. You have to specifically order it when you order the pedal. Of course, you can go on their website and order one now.

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A word about using the axe fx wah block:

My method is to assign a modifier to the sweep of the pedal and set the pedal to auto engage. Medium sensitivity works for me. On my Lf expression pedal, I have it assigned to the modifier's cc number.

But here's the important thing I've found. Auto engage works regardless of whether the wah block is on or off. And your guitar tone will sound better and unfiltered, if you always leave the wah block bypassed.

So I make sure my wah is off for every scene. And even though I have an IA slot programmed to turn that block off and on, I never use it. I only sweep the pedal with the cc # of the modifier I linked to it.

Happy programming.

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Well, when I ordered mine I did select the "USA (Axe-FX compatible w/ Coupler) $14.95" option in the drop list. But like I said, there was absolutely no documentation in the box explaining what anything was when it finally arrived. I *do* have the small reducer that changes the size of the plug so it fits into the power adapter input on the back of the Axe, so that's probably what you're talking about. It was sealed in a small zip-lock bag with small rubber "feet" nodules.

Looks like I don't need that external midi in/out/thru phantom power box after all.

Lesson learned.

Sorry for the semi-derail, but some of this info might help new LF+ owners not make the same error.
 
Ahhh, yep that is probably what you needed. I plugged mine in and zip tied it or velcro strip tethered it to the axe fx power plug for stability. I probably used a soft velcro strip so I could remove the power supply if I want to just sit on the couch with the pedal and do programming without having my rack powered up. There are also certain situations I play in, where I have to locate my rack more than 30 feet away. So when that happens, I use a 50 foot 5-pin midi cable and power the LF with it's wall wart plugged directly into the pedal.

You won't find many or any 7-pin midi cables longer than 30 feet and that's because of ohm's law of resistance. It you tested the power readings coming through a 50' 7-pin cable, you'd discover that the voltage/amperage is browning out your pedal. And since it is a little computer, you never want to under power it.

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Yep, confirmed. I just pulled the box/extra cables out of the mix, 7 pin straight into the midi-in on the Axe and the LF+ power supply with the coupler directly into the back of the Axe's phantom power input. Worked like a charm.

Only using a 25' cable right now, but if I ever need to go further I'll keep this in mind.

Thanks for the direction on this. I'll spend some time later with the wah bypass IA. Lovin this pedal so far. I just wish there was better documentation, but that's not a deal breaker for me. The flexibility is well worth a little bit of a learning curve in my opinion.
 
Man, I feel like such an idiot. I've had that coupler sitting in the box and thought that I couldn't use it unless I bought an extra phantom power supply box or something. I didn't even realize there was a power supply port above the midi in until one of you guys mentioned it. Then, when I looked back there with a flashlight I still didn't see it :stupid: It wasn't until I whipped out the manual and found it on the pic that I actually found it and confirmed that the coupler fit in there. Like it's been stated, documentation is not LF strong suit. I just feel dumb for missing what should obvious had I actually read that part of the manual (then again, I'm still trying to figure the magical black box out).

So, all I should need is a 7 pin cable and that coupler and I'm good to go......yes?
 
Man, I feel like such an idiot. I've had that coupler sitting in the box and thought that I couldn't use it unless I bought an extra phantom power supply box or something. I didn't even realize there was a power supply port above the midi in until one of you guys mentioned it. Then, when I looked back there with a flashlight I still didn't see it :stupid: It wasn't until I whipped out the manual and found it on the pic that I actually found it and confirmed that the coupler fit in there. Like it's been stated, documentation is not LF strong suit. I just feel dumb for missing what should obvious had I actually read that part of the manual (then again, I'm still trying to figure the magical black box out).

So, all I should need is a 7 pin cable and that coupler and I'm good to go......yes?

Yep. That's how I've got mine connected now, and it's working as intended. No phantom power box, no extra midi cables, nada. Single 7 pin cable from the pedal to the Axe and the LF power supply plugged directly into the back of the Axe using the "plug reducer" that came with the LF.
 
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