Electro-Voice PXM-12MP report

jazzgtrl4 said:
So i picked one of these up...So far i like it better than my CP12s forsure...i know what you are talking about, that faint sizzle as the notes fade away..any updated on getting that fixed? I have a gig tonight and it will be the maiden voyage. I dont think i will hear that with band cranking but would like to not have it there.,
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I sent mine back for noise issue - EV got it Monday and turned it around in two days- they shipped it back to me yesterday- I bought the EV used and they still honored the three year warranty- great service IMHO
 
My EV, since updating my FM3 firmware, makes a loud electronic "popping" noise when I turn it on. I have tried turning the FM3 with volume st zero on first, then the EV, and the opposite, with the same results. It is a very loud electronic noise, sort of like if you unplug your guitar when the FM3 is on. Is this normal?
Also, since updating the firmware, I have been having issues where when I switch scenes in a preset, some scenes are so high volume that it causes ear splitting noise until I turn my volume down on the guitar.
Probably both issues are my user error, but just checking to see if anyone has any thoughts or suggestions.
Thanks!
 
As far as the Popping you referred to, you have to turn gear on and off in the right order.

From: https://www.behindthemixer.com/pow-pop-powering-equipment-on-and-off-in-the-right-order/

Turn it on
Outboard effects and anything else leading into the mixer.
The Mixer
DSP units. These include limiters, house EQ, etc.
Amplifiers or powered speakers.

Turn it off
Amplifiers or powered speakers. WAIT! Before kicking off everything else, wait a few moments. Amplifiers store energy and need to discharge this energy.
DSP units. These include limiters, house EQ, etc.
The Mixer
Outboard effects and anything else leading into the mixer.


I would always turn the powered speakers ( or power amps) on last (with volumes of other gear turned down), and off first.

As far as the loud noises when switching scenes, I don't know what is going on there. You might want to post a preset so others can help troubleshoot it. I will say that depending what is being switched in or out, there can be some extraneous sounds when switching scenes, but that is highly dependent on what's being switched.
 
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guitarno said:
As far as the Popping you referred to, you have to turn gear on and off in the right order.

From: https://www.behindthemixer.com/pow-pop-powering-equipment-on-and-off-in-the-right-order/

Turn it on
Outboard effects and anything else leading into the mixer.
The Mixer
DSP units. These include limiters, house EQ, etc.
Amplifiers or powered speakers.

Turn it off
Amplifiers or powered speakers. WAIT! Before kicking off everything else, wait a few moments. Amplifiers store energy and need to discharge this energy.
DSP units. These include limiters, house EQ, etc.
The Mixer
Outboard effects and anything else leading into the mixer.


I would always turn the speakers on last (with volumes of other gear turned down), and off first.

As far as the loud noises when switching scenes, I don't know what is going on there. You might want to post a preset so others can help troubleshoot it. I will say that depending what is being switched in or out, there can be some extraneous sounds when switching scenes, but that is highly dependent on what's being switched.
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Thanks a bunch for your reply. I will try that out later today. Apologies in not responding sooner, just very busy. But I really appreciate the help.
 
Has anyone tried the PXM vs. a Yamaha DHR12M? Seems to be similar speaker, but the Yamaha has more wattage. I’m not sure if it’s FRFR though.
 
Raggashaggas said:
Has anyone tried the PXM vs. a Yamaha DHR12M? Seems to be similar speaker, but the Yamaha has more wattage. I’m not sure if it’s FRFR though.
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Looking at the specs, the DHR12M is a pretty flat (based on the chart, not quite as flat as the PXM 12MP) coaxial monitor - definitely falls under the FRFR label.

Basically the same price as the EV but less DSP options.

The amp and jacks / controls are on the back vs on the side with the EV.

Edit:

I didn't realize the EV prices have increased significantly... So, the Yamaha is about $150 less per unit.
 
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EV Tech Specs​

  • Type:Floor Monitor
  • Powered:Yes
  • Power Configuration:Single Amp
  • LF Driver Size:12" Speaker (1.75" Coaxial Driver)
  • Total Power:700W Class D
  • Inputs:2 x XLR-1/4" combo, 1 x Dual RCA Stereo
  • Outputs:2 x XLR (out, thru)
  • Frequency Range:53Hz-20khz (-10 dB)
  • Frequency Response:64Hz-20kHz
  • Crossover Frequency:1.6kHz
  • Maximum Peak SPL:129 dB SPL @ 1m
  • Horizontal Coverage Angle:90°
  • Vertical Coverage Angle:90°
  • Enclosure Material:15mm Plywood
  • Mounting Options:Floor Wedge
  • Power Source:Standard IEC AC cable
  • Height:13.1"
  • Width:16.1"
  • Depth:19"
  • Weight:29.8 lbs.
  • Manufacturer Part Number:F.01U.362.554
Sent from my iPad
Yamaha

Yamaha​

Tech Specs​

  • Powered:Yes
  • Power Configuration:Single Amp
  • LF Driver Size:12" woofer
  • HF Driver Size:1.75" High-compression driver
  • LF Driver Power Amp:800W
  • HF Driver Power Amp:200W
  • Total Power:1000W Class D
  • Inputs:2 x XLR-1/4" combo
  • Outputs:1 x XLR
  • Frequency Response:55Hz-20kHz (-10 dB)
  • Maximum Peak SPL:129 dB SPL @ 1m
  • Horizontal Coverage Angle:90°
  • Vertical Coverage Angle:60°
  • Signal Processing:48-bit DSP
  • Enclosure Material:Plywood with Polyurea coating
  • Mounting Options:Floor Wedge
  • Power Source:Standard IEC AC cable
  • Height:13.5"
  • Width:19.75"
  • Depth:18"
  • Weight:36.3 lbs.
  • Manufacturer Part Number:DHR12M
 
Seeing the comparisons, would you think the Yamaha is a viable cheaper alternative to the EV? More wattage and all
Jamme1961 said:

EV Tech Specs​

  • Type:Floor Monitor
  • Powered:Yes
  • Power Configuration:Single Amp
  • LF Driver Size:12" Speaker (1.75" Coaxial Driver)
  • Total Power:700W Class D
  • Inputs:2 x XLR-1/4" combo, 1 x Dual RCA Stereo
  • Outputs:2 x XLR (out, thru)
  • Frequency Range:53Hz-20khz (-10 dB)
  • Frequency Response:64Hz-20kHz
  • Crossover Frequency:1.6kHz
  • Maximum Peak SPL:129 dB SPL @ 1m
  • Horizontal Coverage Angle:90°
  • Vertical Coverage Angle:90°
  • Enclosure Material:15mm Plywood
  • Mounting Options:Floor Wedge
  • Power Source:Standard IEC AC cable
  • Height:13.1"
  • Width:16.1"
  • Depth:19"
  • Weight:29.8 lbs.
  • Manufacturer Part Number:F.01U.362.554
Sent from my iPad
Yamaha

Yamaha​

Tech Specs​

  • Powered:Yes
  • Power Configuration:Single Amp
  • LF Driver Size:12" woofer
  • HF Driver Size:1.75" High-compression driver
  • LF Driver Power Amp:800W
  • HF Driver Power Amp:200W
  • Total Power:1000W Class D
  • Inputs:2 x XLR-1/4" combo
  • Outputs:1 x XLR
  • Frequency Response:55Hz-20kHz (-10 dB)
  • Maximum Peak SPL:129 dB SPL @ 1m
  • Horizontal Coverage Angle:90°
  • Vertical Coverage Angle:60°
  • Signal Processing:48-bit DSP
  • Enclosure Material:Plywood with Polyurea coating
  • Mounting Options:Floor Wedge
  • Power Source:Standard IEC AC cable
  • Height:13.5"
  • Width:19.75"
  • Depth:18"
  • Weight:36.3 lbs.
  • Manufacturer Part Number:DHR12M
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Raggashaggas said:
Seeing the comparisons, would you think the Yamaha is a viable cheaper alternative to the EV? More wattage and all
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The published difference in wattage between the two is negligible.

IF you were running at full output you’d not notice a volume difference as it’d be less than 2 dB between the two and would be so loud your ears would only hear noise, the bar owner would turn off the stage power, and your band mates would kick you out. Plus, though they spec differently for their output, the max. SPL rating is the same.

100 dB on stage is loud. Either speaker can easily do that, so then it comes down to features, functionality, and needs.
 
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What Greg said.

Every speaker has some character, in spite of what the frequency charts might try to say. Aside from the differences in DSP and memory slots, ideally you'd compare the two side by side (ideally a blind test) and see if you have a preference.
 
I noticed that the Yamaha is heavier and doesn’t have as wide of a dispersion pattern. Both would be negatives for me, personally. Otherwise, the specs look similar. As stated above, ‘till you hear it you won’t really know if you like the overall sonic character of the speaker.

-Aaron
 
Jamme1961 said:
The Yamaha is cheaper
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"Cheaper" shouldn't be the deciding factor; whichever speaker meets the needs should be.

"Cheaper" often leads the buyer down a path of repeatedly trying and replacing cabinets, hoping to find the magic combination of cheap cost with excellent build and sound, which rarely happens. It's better to look around and find the right combination then buy once, but, unfortunately, that's not how most musicians operate, at least not until they've been through that cycle many times.
 
Raggashaggas said:
Seeing the comparisons, would you think the Yamaha is a viable cheaper alternative to the EV? More wattage and all
Click to expand...

Jamme1961 said:
The Yamaha is cheaper
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Wow! Sweetwater is selling the EVs for $949! They were $799 when I bought mine in February...
(although I bought mine elsewhere, I think SW was the same price)
aflynt said:
I noticed that the Yamaha is heavier and doesn’t have as wide of a dispersion pattern. Both would be negatives for me, personally. Otherwise, the specs look similar. As stated above, ‘till you hear it you won’t really know if you like the overall sonic character of the speaker.

-Aaron
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And it's a bit larger...

If they sound good, then based on current prices a pair would be $300 less than the EVs so you'll have to decide if that works for you or not.
 
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unix-guy said:
Wow! Sweetwater is selling the EVs for $949! They were $799 when I bought mine in February...
(although I bought mine elsewhere, I think SW was the same price)

And it's a bit larger...

If they sound good, then based on current prices a pair would be $300 less than the EVs so you'll have to decide if that works for you or not.
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When I bought my EVs several weeks ago, everywhere was 949, but Peter at Manchester Music Mill did them for 825, no tax since I picked them up in person in NH.

FWIW I think they sound great.
 
Wow! They've gone up. Mine were $789 when I bought them almost exactly two years ago. Inflation, chip shortage, cats and dogs living together...
Glad to hear yours hold together well at volume, Greg. I had a gig with a guy with a 4x10 DRRI, and after sound check I decided to see how my pair would hold up against his. Not a problem. What distance were you measuring 106dB? I would bet that at 1 meter, I was easily over that.
 
Greg Ferguson said:
Good. :)

Have you had a chance to turn them up to stage volume? I had mine at 106 dB competing with a FOH system one night and they were easily holding their own.
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Didn't measure, but I don't play quietly at least sometimes, and they can be louder than I think is good for me or fun for me.

Also, in my relatively small space, when they're comfortably wailing in my usual edit-and-listen position, they're lots louder at 1 meter. There's more low end down that end of the room too.
 
kpodj.com sells them for $813.88 (VIP pricing) with free shipping. Although you do have to sign up for an account with your email. I have a junk gmail account for stuff like that.
 
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