Atomic CLR problem

I have two CLR active wedges (non-NEO's) and I really love them. I had to replace the power module in one of them so within a few days I received a new one (free of charge) from Atomic and I returned the faulty one (I live in Norway so it was shipped from their UK-affiliate). My experience with Atomic / Tom King support is VERY positive. Highly recommended. I have however heard the same as stated in one of the above posts that Atomic has problems with spam mail so I hope they get this sorted out soon. In the mean time the best solution is to contact Tom King directly (if you need to you find how to on this forum). Conclusion; I am very happy with both the product and the manufacturer.

Same thing here, my CLR have been used in live gigs and stayed in the truck from day 1. I had a problem with a single unit: I send an email on Sunday afternoon and I got my replacement amp on Wednesday morning here in Europe.
 
I have a standard CLR and a Neo and they've been stellar. The only thing that lets Atomic down is their awful email system. First email goes through, but pretty much every reply gets missed - I assume as spam. Once you can get hold of Tom the support is first rate, just a shame that making contact on email is so troublesome.
 
I would definitely recommend just getting the passive version. Their active module seems to be finicky.

I had one replaced since it wouldn't power up... and now my second CLR is having trouble powering up. I have to leave the switch on and I after some warm-up time it eventually powers on.

I've re-seated all the power supply output connectors and that seems to have fixed it.

And the one module that was replaced has that "tweeter goes off" issue mentioned in this thread. I've been wondering if it's the DSP just occasionally corrupting it's filtering coefficients or a power supply issue but for me it usually clears up by just power cycling the module (which makes me suspect the DSP).

For this module, I've re-seated all the HF leads coming from the module and the leads going into the tweeter (you have to remove the front grill) so far so good - but I'll keep an eye on this...
 
Hi.

i had two CLR Neos. while they did sound good...went through 3 or 4 power modules as well as a speaker between the pair..sometimes it was easy to get a hold of Tom and other times took weeks or longer to get a new power module. sold them.
 
Bah spoke too soon. I tried it today and it's not turning on again. But it's definitely a power supply issue, proved the output header pins and there's no voltage.

I may try this first:
http://electronicprojectsbuilder.blogspot.com/2015/02/hypex-smps400-power-supply-repair.html

Please keep us posted on your progress. I have the same problem with my older CLR. I had contacted Tom a while ago and when I finally heard back from him, the told me that there was no way to troubleshoot over the phone and I'd have to send it in. I didn't at the time because it still worked (with a little patience) and I didn't want to be without it for an extended period of time.

I now have a NEO CLR which has worked flawlessly since I got it over a year ago, so I may look into fixing the non-NEO again.
 
Please keep us posted on your progress. I have the same problem with my older CLR. I had contacted Tom a while ago and when I finally heard back from him, the told me that there was no way to troubleshoot over the phone and I'd have to send it in. I didn't at the time because it still worked (with a little patience) and I didn't want to be without it for an extended period of time.

I now have a NEO CLR which has worked flawlessly since I got it over a year ago, so I may look into fixing the non-NEO again.

If you are sure it's the power supply, the easier path is just to replace the whole thing. The part number is on the bottom of the PCB (SMPS400A400) available here: https://www.hypexshop.com/DetailServlet?detailID=2895

I will try replacing the caps first... and if that doesn't work.. I'll just get a replacement.


5dq4ai8.jpg
 
If you are sure it's the power supply, the easier path is just to replace the whole thing. The part number is on the bottom of the PCB (SMPS400A400) available here: https://www.hypexshop.com/DetailServlet?detailID=2895

I will try replacing the caps first... and if that doesn't work.. I'll just get a replacement.
Please keep us posted on your progress. I have the same problem with my older CLR. I had contacted Tom a while ago and when I finally heard back from him, the told me that there was no way to troubleshoot over the phone and I'd have to send it in. I didn't at the time because it still worked (with a little patience) and I didn't want to be without it for an extended period of time.

I now have a NEO CLR which has worked flawlessly since I got it over a year ago, so I may look into fixing the non-NEO again.

I have replaced the caps - which seems to have worked. I'll check tomorrow after it goes cold for a while and post back.
 
Well, I'm not sure it's the power supply in my case. It has the same symptoms as yours, though. Does yours always take a while to start up? In my case, it's intermittent. It usually starts right up, but sometimes I have to wait a few minutes and then it pops and turns on.

I am curious to know if replacing the caps works for you long-term. If it does and you don't mind sharing, I'd love to know what parts you used, where they go and where you can buy them. Soldering on a circuit board is not something I've done before, but I'm willing to give it a try. Thanks!
 
I have 2 clr's. One started cutting out every 10 sec then would flash output light a few times, then sound returned and cut out again. Then recently tested and would not not produce any sound, with output light flashing. I dont have the money to send the power module in. So today I swapped the Hypex SMPS400A400 power supply board with the other good one in other CLR, yep that is the problem. I am ordering the 3 220uf 35V 105 degree caps to see if I can get it going.
Albert, what caps did you replace?
And TFC, if you never soldered before, see if you can get a buddy who has, you can really screw up a board over heating them
 
Last edited:
Well, I'm not sure it's the power supply in my case. It has the same symptoms as yours, though. Does yours always take a while to start up? In my case, it's intermittent. It usually starts right up, but sometimes I have to wait a few minutes and then it pops and turns on.

That's actually what it started doing first.

I am curious to know if replacing the caps works for you long-term.
So far so good, it's starting immediately now.

If it does and you don't mind sharing, I'd love to know what parts you used, where they go and where you can buy them.

See the link I posted earlier; They are 220uF 35V You can get them at any electronic component store like digikey, mouser, RadioShack or even Amazon
Soldering on a circuit board is not something I've done before, but I'm willing to give it a try. Thanks!

I wouldn't recommend it if you haven't done it before. Also It's a power supply and is pretty dangerous, you should know how to discharge the caps on the board, you can get killed if not careful.
 
Last edited:
Damn, we are DIY repairing these things now... :)

Has anyone heard from Tom? I have had the 'no high frequencies' problem on one of my two CLRs, and I have sent multiple emails over the last week and a half. No word back yet...
 
Damn, we are DIY repairing these things now... :)

Has anyone heard from Tom? I have had the 'no high frequencies' problem on one of my two CLRs, and I have sent multiple emails over the last week and a half. No word back yet...

Well I think the more we know about these the better. I do love mine and I know how to desolder/solder. So if the unit is out of warranty, why not. Just love the sharing of info. I looked at buying the module from Hypex, Netherlands. Price could be 150 when said and done. Looks like they make the power amp board also. I think I will never leave mine on overnight. Caps do dry out over time, and in that small enclosed space
 
If you are sure it's the power supply, the easier path is just to replace the whole thing. The part number is on the bottom of the PCB (SMPS400A400) available here: https://www.hypexshop.com/DetailServlet?detailID=2895

I will try replacing the caps first... and if that doesn't work.. I'll just get a replacement.

The 3 of them as described here: http://electronicprojectsbuilder.blogspot.com/2015/02/hypex-smps400-power-supply-repair.html

I didn't bother to check them just removed and replaced.

Thanks for this info.

(Knock on wood) My CLRs have been working flawlessly, but it's good to have info like this if the power supply fails out of warranty. Elcos are cheap and easy enough to DIY without even having to bother troubleshooting anything else first. Looking forward to hear if it solved your problem.
 
See the link I posted earlier; They are 220uF 35V You can get them almost anywhere even Amazon
I wouldn't recommend it if you haven't done it before. Also It's a power supply and is pretty dangerous, you should know how to discharge the caps on the board, you can get killed if not careful.

Thanks for the info and the warning. If I can fix this thing for under $10 in parts, then I'm going to learn what I need to learn to do it.
 
Yeah, there is some good info in this thread. My CLR's haven't had a problem, but when/if they do this will be first on the check list.

Thanks for blazing the trail for the rest of us.
 
Damn, we are DIY repairing these things now... :)

Has anyone heard from Tom? I have had the 'no high frequencies' problem on one of my two CLRs, and I have sent multiple emails over the last week and a half. No word back yet...

Thats my thoughts exactly..now you have to do repairs yourself on these things, screw it...

come to think of it i had to do this to a degree as well..some of the screws were stripped in the wood holding on the power module. Had to stick glue and wood toothpicks in the holes so i could tighten the screw down. haha
 
Last edited:
Back
Top Bottom