Oh boy...having issues...

solar - I guess the German cabs would boom up loud...
I hate to generalise... but... lol...
if you had a full-on metal tone like a VH4 ch3 or an Engl etc.. with all the lows cut from the amp: basic: bass control [so the low end is real tight]
this cab choice would normalise that and stuff and pop some deep lows back in..

"Was more focused on EQ"
try not to lose sight of the fact that different cabs actually are essentially an "EQ type" in their own right
maybe just spend a night auditioning loads of cabs...
the results can be quite dramatic [for better and for worse - because different cabs react quite differently to different types of tone stuffed into them]
 
@favance - I'll try that. Thanks for the tip I didn't realize that about the Qsc.

@clarky - Right. I'm gonna go back to the default cab for the amp I select and start tweaking there again and then change up the cab if the default isn't what I'm looking for.
 
There is no reason the XLR outputs should "sound worse". They use the same buffer devices as the 1/4" outputs. Therefore I can only assume there is something set wrong in your monitors and you are clipping the inputs. XLR is always the preferred connection when available.
 
Hey thanks again.

@Fractal - The XLRs made the signal sound way more brittle for some reason. Ill double check at practice space tonight to make sure I have the switch on the back of the mointor set for the right type of input both ways - 99% positive I had it correct last night.

I lnow XLR is preferred which is why it was puzzling to me to hear that difference....Running in half stereo until I get another can for stereo. Should I change that to sum ? My guess is not.

@spufuz - I have not touched the ground lift switch.
 
Ok guys. I "reset" the global EQ, amp gain back to 0, and followed some other basic tips you guys gave me. I started from scratch in the amp and cab blocks and switched the cabs to mono (only have 1 monitor currently and the cabs were in stereo). I also went back to the XLR inputs and ensured I was using the proper setting on the QSC K10.

I then A/Bed my existing rig at practice volume with the Axe and after about an hour I have two good patches that sound very close to my existing sounds (if not better than the traditional rig since I have way more flexibility!).

I ran the K10 at 75% volume and output of the Axe at about 40-45%. When I turned the K10 to full volume to use the Axe output as a master volume it had some buzzy/clipping sounds, so not sure what that's about - maybe any K10 owners can weigh in. I figure once I get another monitor and have twice the power I won't have a problem with volume.

I now feel a bit relieved and I want to thank anyone who weighed in this post - most of what I was doing was just newbie mistakes, but I couldn't have done it without your help. I think I'm on the right track now.
 
Cool. I'm glad it's working out for you. Sorta figured it would. :)


SolarPoweredSD said:
When I turned the K10 to full volume to use the Axe output as a master volume it had some buzzy/clipping sounds, so not sure what that's about - maybe any K10 owners can weigh in.
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The Axe has more than enough poop to overdrive pretty much any equipment out there, your K10 included. With your K10 cranked and your Axe at anywhere near full volume, the K10's limit light was probably having a party.
 
SolarPoweredSD said:
I ran the K10 at 75% volume and output of the Axe at about 40-45%. When I turned the K10 to full volume to use the Axe output as a master volume it had some buzzy/clipping sounds, so not sure what that's about - maybe any K10 owners can weigh in. I figure once I get another monitor and have twice the power I won't have a problem with volume.
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Did you compensate on the Axe (turn output down when maxing the QSC) to check if your issue is purely loudness-related?

That thing is 1000 watts...your ears should crap out before it does. Might just be something wrong with the K10.
 
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Yeah I started with the Axe output all the way down and turned it up to about 9 Oclock (25% up). And it was pretty loud but had some crackling. When I turned the Qsc down to 75% and the Axe up to almost noon - it seemed to be Ok - but that is definitely practice volume (may also like to have a lil extra tho).

The Qsc has a return policy on ebay but that runs out in a few days - hard to tell it its defective (bought refurbished/used).
 
Just plug some other device into the K10 (disc player or whatever) and look what it does. If it works fine then some settings in the Axe might be the issue. As I learned a few days ago with another sound problem a system reset can do magic.
 
Trazan said:
That thing is 1000 watts...your ears should crap out before it does.
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You'll never get 1000 watts out of it. They split the power into two identical amps: 500 watts for highs and 500 watts for lows. With most program material, you'll send the low-frequency amp into clipping before you get more than a fraction of the high-frequency amp's rated power. It should still be fairly loud, though.

Side note: the power spec for that speaker only specifies the draw at 1/8 power. Reading between the lines, I'd guess the power supply craps out before the amp gets to full power.
 
Rex said:
With most program material, you'll send the low-frequency amp into clipping before you get more than a fraction of the high-frequency amp's rated power.
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This is why one should switch the QSC to 'external subwoofer' even if none is connected (when using it as a guitar monitor). It will take a lot of the load off the amp at frequencies you would usually not get from a guitar anyway.
 
Digital amps never run at their stated output. They will be limited by the DSP to around 250 watts per amp. Very clean and efficient in that range and plenty loud enough, depending on the efficiency of the speaker of course.
 
Right - I'm not very savvy with the super technical stuff. I did know that the 1000 is split to 500 watts to each the woofer and tweeter. I just would assume one speaker that loud should give me a TAD more headroom - but I was running it super loud - but my band is SUPER loud. Again, if I get two and run them in stereo, I think I should be OK.

@guitardoc - do you own a K10 or other K Series and have tried this with the subwoofer switch? I will try next time I head to my practice spot (hopefully tonight). I'll also try plugging in an ipod and push the speaker a little to see if I get any clipping. What do you mean by system reset tho? On the Axe? I just bought it and haven't really made too many weird changes that would mess up defaults or anything.....
 
guitardoc said:
This is why one should switch the QSC to 'external subwoofer' even if none is connected (when using it as a guitar monitor). It will take a lot of the load off the amp at frequencies you would usually not get from a guitar anyway.
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Help me understand that. You're saying if I switch the QSC to "external subwoofer," I'll be removing the load caused by frequencies that don't exist anyway? :)
 
Trazan said:
Hm, care to explain? If an amp is rated to deliver 500W RMS, it should do so, within specs. No?
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The amp may be rated at 500 watts (note that there's no "RMS" in the spec for this speaker), but under what conditions? And can the power supply deliver enough current to achieve the amp's rated output?

I don't know anything about DSP limitations on power, but I do know that manufacturers play loose as a goose with all kinds of specifications and ratings; I don't trust published numbers.
 
Rex said:
The amp may be rated at 500 watts (note that there's no "RMS" in the spec for this speaker), but under what conditions? And can the power supply deliver enough current to achieve the amp's rated output?

I don't know anything about DSP limitations on power, but I do know that manufacturers play loose as a goose with all kinds of specifications and ratings; I don't trust published numbers.
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Just didn't quite get the claim that "digital" amps deliver half their rated output ("Digital" amps meaning class D switching amps?).

Amp watt is always rated RMS, or "continuous". Not sure just how strict regulations on measuring procedure are though! :)
If the power supply makes the amp unable to deliver more than 250W...they'd have to rate it at 250W.
 
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