Let's see those FM9 rigs!

I think option 2 there is more my speed since splicing/soldering isn't (yet) in my arsenal. What did you (or anyone else) use to drill the hole? I don't have the pedal board in my hands yet, so not sure how thick the metal is.
I did a quick measure with the Calipers, it's looks like .0625 or 16 gauge so not impossible to work with. If your going to do it that way I would use a Dye grinder with a small bit and get some paint the matches! This way it will look somewhat factory when your done, as always be smart and wear safety glasses if you wind up using those tools!


I realize that Temple Audio has geared their boards to be used with typical guitar type pedals but it seems kind of short sighted not making their dye so it will punch a hole big enough to run an IEC plug through it.
 
I did a quick measure with the Calipers, it's looks like .0625 or 16 gauge so not impossible to work with. If your going to do it that way I would use a Dye grinder with a small bit and get some paint the matches! This way it will look somewhat factory when your done, as always be smart and wear safety glasses if you wind up using those tools!


I realize that Temple Audio has geared their boards to be used with typical guitar type pedals but it seems kind of short sighted not making their dye so it will punch a hole big enough to run an IEC plug through it.
Awesome thank you. I'm going to also explore these solderless options for cutting and attaching new connectors. Also sounds like it could be within my level of technical expertise and then I wouldn't need to drill the board.
 
Awesome thank you. I'm going to also explore these solderless options for cutting and attaching new connectors. Also sounds like it could be within my level of technical expertise and then I wouldn't need to drill the board.
The replacement plugs at the hardware store require only a screwdriver, and are UL approved, so there is no worry using them....
 
What are those clear covers and where to get? Do you have to mod the unit (ie. drill into it?) Has to be since there's no existing screws or holes there in a stock FM9.
The clear plexiglass are located on Gear by Ceba (https://www.gearbyceba.com). No mods are required. The plexiglass only requires that you remove any footswitch toppers (Mooer Shroom; amazon) and position the plexiglass and allow the small magnets to attach to the four corners of each plexiglass piece. The magnets hold the plexiglass securely in place.
 
Can I ask what power supply you used? I saw BleuJazz used a more expesnive Fuhrman with just 2x 3-prongs. I'd love to hook up the USB stuff so this looks intriguing.
@DoctorAK,
Amazon has the Furman on sale this week...at about $45 dollars less than what I paid several months ago...$115 currently, IIRC...
 
The clear plexiglass are located on Gear by Ceba (https://www.gearbyceba.com). No mods are required. The plexiglass only requires that you remove any footswitch toppers (Mooer Shroom; amazon) and position the plexiglass and allow the small magnets to attach to the four corners of each plexiglass piece. The magnets hold the plexiglass securely in place.
Ah magnets… cool. Thanks!
 
Yes, the Temple Audio modules would allow what you wish to do.

You'd likely need:
(1) Temple Audio Dual XLR (M/M) (Search Online) (for Stereo XLR > FOH) (~ $99)
(1) Temple Audio Dual ¼" TS (Search Online) (for Dual I/O Guitar Inputs) (~ $99)

(1) Temple Audio Mini-Module Punched Plate MOD-MIPP (eBay) (~ $24)
(1) Neutrik NAUSB-W-B Reversible USB Genderchanger (Type A and B) D-Housing Chassis Connector (Amazon) (~ $15)
(1) Either 2x ¼" Dual TRS Locking Jacks, OR, 2x Temple Audio XLR (M) > ¼" TRS Jacks (with either 2x ¼" TRS Plug > XLR (F) Plug 2' Cable, OR 2x ¼" TRS Plug > ¼" TRS Plug 2' Cable, respectively) [Unsure that Temple makes individual XLR > ¼" jacks; best for Output 3 to stick with Dual ¼" TRS Jacks.]. (Amazon)

For Power, unless you plan on powering more than just the FM9, you'd need to find a power source that has at least one AC outlet service jack. What would connect to that would be a 3-prong AC plug > IEC (F) Plug 1.5' or 2' cable.

You would not be able to use one of the small side plate holes as a power access point, because the above cable attaches to your power strip and FM9. The power strip 3-prong plug would need to be fed through an access point somewhere aside the board, where a standard 3-prong AC extension cord would connect to your wall outlet. It's likely that you'd need to cut and solder the plug from your power strip to be able to feed through the side Temple Audio plate access point.

The downside of doing it this way involves needing to continually switch the power strip on/off, unless you feel safe just powering down your FM9 and additional effects manually, and keeping them connected.

Others have used power sources like Voodoo Labs (with one AC service jack and 9 VDC or greater power connectors) or other power sources for connecting additional pedals.

I personally kept mine simple with a Furman AC215A power/surge conditioner that has 2 AC outlets and 1 IEC (M) outlet. Amazon has a good deal on this just now, they're about $35 less than what I paid 4 months ago.

Also added a Temple Audio IEC AC Mains Micro Module: https://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/MOD-IEC--temple-audio-iec-ac-mains-micro-module. Doing so allows me to power on/off the Furman at side of board without needing to do any cut or soldering. The only cut was made to the Temple Audio board itself to widen the access hole that allowed a 2' IEC (F) / AC (M) cable to feed through. You could cut and solder the IEC/AC cable instead of widening the access hole; others have done this with good results.
Before I pull the trigger, just want to confirm that the Neutrik connectors will work on the Temple Mini Module Punch Plates? This four pack of XLR connectors is FAR cheaper than 2x Temple XLR Pass Thru Modules.

Amazon product ASIN B07MK448B1
My idea is to do:

Punch plate 1 will have 2x Neutrik XLR for OUT 1, with a third maybe for USB pass thru from computer to the FM9
Punch plate 2 will have 2x Neutrik XLR for OUT 2, with a third maybe for USB power
Another slot will be this module for both guitar in, and can use the other 2 for TRS balanced outs for OUT3 if I ever need it: https://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/MOD-4X--temple-audio-4-way-jack-patch-module
Power will go out one of the micro modules using the IEC AC Micro Module linked above.
Probably power strip or the Furman for power, haven't decided.
 
Before I pull the trigger, just want to confirm that the Neutrik connectors will work on the Temple Mini Module Punch Plates? This four pack of XLR connectors is FAR cheaper than 2x Temple XLR Pass Thru Modules.

Amazon product ASIN B07MK448B1
They will fit! Neutrik specs out the diameter at 23.60mm I just put a caliper on one of empty holes in the micro punch plate and it mic'd out the same.
 
Before I pull the trigger, just want to confirm that the Neutrik connectors will work on the Temple Mini Module Punch Plates? This four pack of XLR connectors is FAR cheaper than 2x Temple XLR Pass Thru Modules.

Amazon product ASIN B07MK448B1
My idea is to do:

Punch plate 1 will have 2x Neutrik XLR for OUT 1, with a third maybe for USB pass thru from computer to the FM9
Punch plate 2 will have 2x Neutrik XLR for OUT 2, with a third maybe for USB power
Another slot will be this module for both guitar in, and can use the other 2 for TRS balanced outs for OUT3 if I ever need it: https://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/MOD-4X--temple-audio-4-way-jack-patch-module
Power will go out one of the micro modules using the IEC AC Micro Module linked above.
Probably power strip or the Furman for power, haven't decided.
Yes, that's the route I went with my build. You save money but spend more time making custom cables that fit your board to your liking. Just remember to add all the parts of the connector to the cable before soldering. I never seem to get through a project without forgetting strain relief, shrink tube, or the screw on body. Resoldering a connector is demoralizing. Oh! And don't forget to connect the ground pin to the enclosure pin thingy! I did that this build, too!
 
Yes, that's the route I went with my build. You save money but spend more time making custom cables that fit your board to your liking. Just remember to add all the parts of the connector to the cable before soldering. I never seem to get through a project without forgetting strain relief, shrink tube, or the screw on body. Resoldering a connector is demoralizing. Oh! And don't forget to connect the ground pin to the enclosure pin thingy! I did that this build, too!
Wait do the Neutrik connectors need soldering the XLRs in? I thought they were just female plugs in the back and I can go short XLR from FM9 to there, then attach the connector to the mini plate.
 
Yes, that's the route I went with my build. You save money but spend more time making custom cables that fit your board to your liking. Just remember to add all the parts of the connector to the cable before soldering. I never seem to get through a project without forgetting strain relief, shrink tube, or the screw on body. Resoldering a connector is demoralizing. Oh! And don't forget to connect the ground pin to the enclosure pin thingy! I did that this build, too!
OHHH, or are the Temple Audio holes not big enough for XLR? That seems like a huge oversight.
 
This is awesome. Do you have the means to do a recording (or point to something you have out there already)? I'd love to here this with some of your go-to presets.
I don't have any means to record at home, just yet.
There is a church service online mix ( rough at times)
Send me a PM message and I'll forward you the FB link.
Also, my steel guitar is a Rittenberry SD 10.. which has tone for days.
 
Before I pull the trigger, just want to confirm that the Neutrik connectors will work on the Temple Mini Module Punch Plates? This four pack of XLR connectors is FAR cheaper than 2x Temple XLR Pass Thru Modules.

Amazon product ASIN B07MK448B1
My idea is to do:

Punch plate 1 will have 2x Neutrik XLR for OUT 1, with a third maybe for USB pass thru from computer to the FM9
Punch plate 2 will have 2x Neutrik XLR for OUT 2, with a third maybe for USB power
Another slot will be this module for both guitar in, and can use the other 2 for TRS balanced outs for OUT3 if I ever need it: https://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/MOD-4X--temple-audio-4-way-jack-patch-module
Power will go out one of the micro modules using the IEC AC Micro Module linked above.
Probably power strip or the Furman for power, haven't decided.
The Neutrik connectors may be cheaper, but I don't know how the reverse sides connect; whether they're soldered, or what. Better to find something that delineates how/what connects both sides....like these instead: (I just typed in Neutrik male to female XLR, and this is what popped up...)

Amazon product ASIN B07MK45GGK
You could use these with the Temple Audio Micro Punched Plate that accommodates 3 mini-modules. You'd need 2 mini plates which would provide you with 2 extra access holes for whatever else you might need.

You'd also need several short lengths of M>F XLR cable, likely less than 3 feet each. You may run into a problem putting the cable through the access holes, so it might be more wise to build some M>F XLR cables yourself. Only problem with this idea is that you may end up spending more money than if just buying the Temple Audio XLR modules themselves.

The Temple XLR modules provide not only the modules, but also 2x ¼" TRS > XLR (F) 2' cable. Calculate your costs before you choose one or the other.

The 4-way jack patch module you'd need to put on the opposite side of the board. The IEC/AC module in either the upper left or right plate access holes.
 
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Wait do the Neutrik connectors need soldering the XLRs in? I thought they were just female plugs in the back and I can go short XLR from FM9 to there, then attach the connector to the mini plate.
You want to search for "feed thru" jacks... Otherwise you need to break out the soldering iron.
 
Thanks man!
If you do George L's right you won't have any issues and it's what I had laying around! I may change it out if I have any problems with it later on but the same setup has been on my other board for over a year without any issues. Honestly I have been using this stuff for years and the only time I had issues is when I didn't install it right.
Dang! I must have never used them right! They usually go bad on me after about a year..
 
The Neutrik connectors may be cheaper, but I don't know how the reverse sides connect; whether they're soldered, or what. Better to find something that delineates how/what connects both sides....like these instead: (I just typed in Neutrik male to female XLR, and this is what popped up...)

Amazon product ASIN B07MK45GGK
You could use these with the Temple Audio Micro Punched Plate that accommodates 3 mini-modules. You'd need 2 mini plates which would provide you with 2 extra access holes for whatever else you might need.

You'd also need several short lengths of M>F XLR cable, likely less than 3 feet each. You may run into a problem putting the cable through the access holes, so it might be more wise to build some M>F XLR cables yourself. Only problem with this idea is that you may end up spending more money than if just buying the Temple Audio XLR modules themselves.

The Temple XLR modules provide not only the modules, but also 2x ¼" TRS > XLR (F) 2' cable. Calculate your costs before you choose one or the other.

The 4-way jack patch module you'd need to put on the opposite side of the board. The IEC/AC module in either the upper left or right access holes.

You want to search for "feed thru" jacks... Otherwise you need to break out the soldering iron.
The ones in my previous post are feed/pass thru.
 
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