Let's see those FM9 rigs!

Ok, all done with my new board build! After receiving the rest of the parts I needed to complete, I binged last night in the shop a solid 6.5 hrs and did the teardown of the old and fabricated the new!

Temple Audio Duo 34! On the left side I have Midi, USB in for updates, USB A, USB C and C fast charge! On the Right I have 1/4" Input jack with interrupt, O/P-1 O/P-2. All of the lowprophile connectors I could find.

The IEC power mods are spliced to a convenience outlet I found on Amazon that has 2 plugs and three USB charging ports! I can power from either side of the board and / or power my monitors all with one power cord. Everything is dressed down with the use of sticky zip tie mounts and zip ties!

The FM and dB instruments are both held on with screws while the Shure wireless is held on with HD velcro.

There is only one other item I am considering for my board and that's a Peterson HD strobe tuner! Everything will be housed in a Studio Slips bag made to spec!View attachment 112342View attachment 112343View attachment 112344View attachment 112345View attachment 112346View attachment 112347View attachment 112340
View attachment 112351
Bro that is sick!! But all of that bad ass wiring and your main guitar input is a George L?!!! Might as well solder a cable together and make it bullet proof right?!
 
Bro that is sick!! But all of that bad ass wiring and your main guitar input is a George L?!!! Might as well solder a cable together and make it bullet proof right?!
My main guitar cables for 20-ish years were a pair of George Ls. Never had an issue...
 
Bro that is sick!! But all of that bad ass wiring and your main guitar input is a George L?!!! Might as well solder a cable together and make it bullet proof right?!
My main guitar cables for 20-ish years were a pair of George Ls. Never had an issue...
And I've been regularly using (and reusing) lava cable tightrope for literally years and have had zero issues.
 
Bro that is sick!! But all of that bad ass wiring and your main guitar input is a George L?!!! Might as well solder a cable together and make it bullet proof right?!
Thanks man!
If you do George L's right you won't have any issues and it's what I had laying around! I may change it out if I have any problems with it later on but the same setup has been on my other board for over a year without any issues. Honestly I have been using this stuff for years and the only time I had issues is when I didn't install it right.
 
Keeping pace with the rest of the planet...

Added ColuberCable lower-profile right-angle XLR/TRS cable that replace my straight Temple Audio XLR>TRS cable...for the occasional juke box hero who trips over my Duo 34 while dancing too close to the stage. Although you can't see the back panel too well, the Coluber's are angled up like dove's wings, while my Output 2 plug is angled down. Previously, the cable end plugs sat too close to the top of the Duo 34, which rendered the cable unusable.

A message to ColuberCable solved the problem; they provided a YT link that detailed how to rotate the female jack within the cable-end housing. Initial attempt proved interesting, it put the cable end parallel to the top of the board, which caused some connection issues horizontally. A little adjustment produced the current results.

ctMXtBu.jpg
 
Yup. Glad you took the time to check out the modules.

Underneath the board on the inside of the TA dual (M) XLR Module there is are two ¼" jacks that connects via supplied ¼" TRS > (F) XLR cable to your FM9. The (F) XLR plug from that cable connects to your FM9. The TA dual (M) XLR module allows you to connect to stereo FRFRs.

Connecting the cable does not require routing the TA board; it merely requires feeding the ¼" TRS plug through the larger access holes to the module.

Here's some pics to view what's utilized better....the supplied ¼" TRS > (F) XLR cable is about 10" - 12"; plenty to reach from the FM9's output jacks to the right side where your module would be...(the 2nd module is M & F XLR, in case someday I'd connect a extra FRFR or FC6/12 unit...)

XVVAzN1.jpg


NwC1rUT.jpg


axusAJO.jpg
So I know this is an old post, but curious about these Temple modules. My normal routing when home is:
Guitar to FM9 INST, also want ability to do my Piezo on the same guitar into IN2
FM9 OUT1 stereo XLR to Monitors, and out to Headphones
Also PC into USB

When gigging I will probably go:
Same Guitar and piezo to inputs
FM9 OUT1 stereo XLR to FOH
PC into USB
Option of OUT2 or 3 to my own monitor

Both setups have 2x expressions (EV-1 and a Mission)

So if I went with a Temple Duo 34, I'd have enough room.
Would these modules suffice? I suppose I could use one of the "single" holes for power to a power strip below the unit. Will I lose anything going TRS to XLR through the module you're showing here for either the FOH or monitors?
And I could probably get one of their multi guitar in/out modules for the 2 guitar inputs?

This is adding up in price but maybe worth it if I can have an easy board that I just plug into the side when jumping around practice, gigs, etc.
 
So I know this is an old post, but curious about these Temple modules. My normal routing when home is:
Guitar to FM9 INST, also want ability to do my Piezo on the same guitar into IN2
FM9 OUT1 stereo XLR to Monitors, and out to Headphones
Also PC into USB

When gigging I will probably go:
Same Guitar and piezo to inputs
FM9 OUT1 stereo XLR to FOH
PC into USB
Option of OUT2 or 3 to my own monitor

Both setups have 2x expressions (EV-1 and a Mission)

So if I went with a Temple Duo 34, I'd have enough room.
Would these modules suffice? I suppose I could use one of the "single" holes for power to a power strip below the unit. Will I lose anything going TRS to XLR through the module you're showing here for either the FOH or monitors?
And I could probably get one of their multi guitar in/out modules for the 2 guitar inputs?

This is adding up in price but maybe worth it if I can have an easy board that I just plug into the side when jumping around practice, gigs, etc.
Yes, the Temple Audio modules would allow what you wish to do.

You'd likely need:
(1) Temple Audio Dual XLR (M/M) (Search Online) (for Stereo XLR > FOH) (~ $99)
(1) Temple Audio Dual ¼" TS (Search Online) (for Dual I/O Guitar Inputs) (~ $99)

(1) Temple Audio Mini-Module Punched Plate MOD-MIPP (eBay) (~ $24)
(1) Neutrik NAUSB-W-B Reversible USB Genderchanger (Type A and B) D-Housing Chassis Connector (Amazon) (~ $15)
(1) Either 2x ¼" Dual TRS Locking Jacks, OR, 2x Temple Audio XLR (M) > ¼" TRS Jacks (with either 2x ¼" TRS Plug > XLR (F) Plug 2' Cable, OR 2x ¼" TRS Plug > ¼" TRS Plug 2' Cable, respectively) [Unsure that Temple makes individual XLR > ¼" jacks; best for Output 3 to stick with Dual ¼" TRS Jacks.]. (Amazon)

For Power, unless you plan on powering more than just the FM9, you'd need to find a power source that has at least one AC outlet service jack. What would connect to that would be a 3-prong AC plug > IEC (F) Plug 1.5' or 2' cable.

You would not be able to use one of the small side plate holes as a power access point, because the above cable attaches to your power strip and FM9. The power strip 3-prong plug would need to be fed through an access point somewhere aside the board, where a standard 3-prong AC extension cord would connect to your wall outlet. It's likely that you'd need to cut and solder the plug from your power strip to be able to feed through the side Temple Audio plate access point.

The downside of doing it this way involves needing to continually switch the power strip on/off, unless you feel safe just powering down your FM9 and additional effects manually, and keeping them connected.

Others have used power sources like Voodoo Labs (with one AC service jack and 9 VDC or greater power connectors) or other power sources for connecting additional pedals.

I personally kept mine simple with a Furman AC215A power/surge conditioner that has 2 AC outlets and 1 IEC (M) outlet. Amazon has a good deal on this just now, they're about $35 less than what I paid 4 months ago.

Also added a Temple Audio IEC AC Mains Micro Module: https://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/MOD-IEC--temple-audio-iec-ac-mains-micro-module. Doing so allows me to power on/off the Furman at side of board without needing to do any cut or soldering. The only cut was made to the Temple Audio board itself to widen the access hole that allowed a 2' IEC (F) / AC (M) cable to feed through. You could cut and solder the IEC/AC cable instead of widening the access hole; others have done this with good results.
 
Last edited:
Yes, the Temple Audio modules would allow what you wish to do.

You'd likely need:
(1) Temple Audio Dual XLR (M/M) (Search Online) (for Stereo XLR > FOH) (~ $99)
(1) Temple Audio Dual ¼" TS (Search Online) (for Dual I/O Guitar Inputs) (~ $99)

(1) Temple Audio Mini-Module Punched Plate MOD-MIPP (eBay) (~ $24)
(1) Neutrik NAUSB-W-B Reversible USB Genderchanger (Type A and B) D-Housing Chassis Connector (Amazon) (~ $15)
(1) Either 2x ¼" Dual TRS Locking Jacks, OR, 2x Temple Audio XLR (M) > ¼" TRS Jacks (with either 2x ¼" TRS Plug > XLR (F) Plug 2' Cable, OR 2x ¼" TRS Plug > ¼" TRS Plug 2' Cable, respectively) [Unsure that Temple makes individual XLR > ¼" jacks; best for Output 3 to stick with Dual ¼" TRS Jacks.]. (Amazon)

For Power, unless you plan on powering more than just the FM9, you'd need to find a power source that has at least one AC outlet service jack. What would connect to that would be a 3-prong AC plug > IEC (F) Plug 1.5' or 2' cable.

You would not be able to use one of the small side plate holes as a power access point, because the above cable attaches to your power strip and FM9. The power strip 3-prong plug would need to be fed through an access point somewhere aside the board, where a standard 3-prong AC extension cord would connect to your wall outlet.

The downside of doing it this way involves needing to continually switch the power strip on/off, unless you feel safe just powering down your FM9 and additional effects manually, and keeping them connected.

Others have used power sources like Voodoo Labs (with one AC service jack and 9 VDC or greater power connectors) or other power sources for connecting additional pedals.

I personally kept mine simple with a Furman AC215A power/surge conditioner that has 2 AC outlets and 1 IEC (M) outlet. Amazon has a good deal on this just now, they're about $35 less than what I paid 4 months ago.

Also added a Temple Audio IEC AC Mains Micro Module: https://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/MOD-IEC--temple-audio-iec-ac-mains-micro-module. Doing so allows me to power on/off the Furman at side of board.
Very helpful thanks!
I'm going to think about this for my next big purchase. And maybe a StudioSlip.
For power, right now it would just be the FM9. Might be nice to have a USB-C dongle for my laptop plugged in. I was thinking of just doing that IEC AC Main module, then doing Furman like you have to power the FM9 and whatever else I put on the board. Only thing I foresee adding would be maybe a wireless unit. I have a Shure unit I'm not using, bought it used and have issues with it.
 
Very helpful thanks!
I'm going to think about this for my next big purchase. And maybe a StudioSlip.
For power, right now it would just be the FM9. Might be nice to have a USB-C dongle for my laptop plugged in. I was thinking of just doing that IEC AC Main module, then doing Furman like you have to power the FM9 and whatever else I put on the board. Only thing I foresee adding would be maybe a wireless unit. I have a Shure unit I'm not using, bought it used and have issues with it.
A heads-up regards the IEC power module...that will connect directly to the Furman, though you'd need to run separate AC (M) / IEC (F) around the Furman up through a widened Duo access hole, or cut/solder/wrap the AC / IEC cable to negate the access hole widening. Many have done either with good success.

The AC / IEC cable should be no less than 1.5 feet in length if you're widening, and 2 feet will allow better reach than 1.5, perhaps 3 feet if you're cutting/soldering.

This is stuff you learn from experience, and it took a couple tries with shorter cable for me to get it done correctly.
 
Ok, all done with my new board build! After receiving the rest of the parts I needed to complete, I binged last night in the shop a solid 6.5 hrs and did the teardown of the old and fabricated the new!

Temple Audio Duo 34! On the left side I have Midi, USB in for updates, USB A, USB C and C fast charge! On the Right I have 1/4" Input jack with interrupt, O/P-1 O/P-2. All of the lowprophile connectors I could find.

The IEC power mods are spliced to a convenience outlet I found on Amazon that has 2 plugs and three USB charging ports! I can power from either side of the board and / or power my monitors all with one power cord. Everything is dressed down with the use of sticky zip tie mounts and zip ties!

The FM and dB instruments are both held on with screws while the Shure wireless is held on with HD velcro.

There is only one other item I am considering for my board and that's a Peterson HD strobe tuner! Everything will be housed in a Studio Slips bag made to spec!View attachment 112342View attachment 112343View attachment 112344View attachment 112345View attachment 112346View attachment 112347View attachment 112340
View attachment 112351
Man that's clean!
 
A heads-up regards the IEC power module...that will connect directly to the Furman, though you'd need to run separate AC (M) / IEC (F) around the Furman up through a widened Duo access hole, or cut/solder/wrap the AC / IEC cable to negate the access hole widening. Many have done either with good success.

The AC / IEC cable should be no less than 1.5 feet in length if you're widening, and 2 feet will allow better reach than 1.5, perhaps 3 feet if you're cutting/soldering.

This is stuff you learn from experience, and it took a couple tries with shorter cable for me to get it done correctly.
OK I think I'm understanding what you mean...basically the ends of the power cord from FM9 to Furman (or any power supply) under the board are too big for the holes on the Temple board. So I would either need to cut and splice the cord once fished through OR just drill a bigger hole and sand it down. I think option 2 there is more my speed since splicing/soldering isn't (yet) in my arsenal. What did you (or anyone else) use to drill the hole? I don't have the pedal board in my hands yet, so not sure how thick the metal is.
 
Ok, all done with my new board build! After receiving the rest of the parts I needed to complete, I binged last night in the shop a solid 6.5 hrs and did the teardown of the old and fabricated the new!

Temple Audio Duo 34! On the left side I have Midi, USB in for updates, USB A, USB C and C fast charge! On the Right I have 1/4" Input jack with interrupt, O/P-1 O/P-2. All of the lowprophile connectors I could find.

The IEC power mods are spliced to a convenience outlet I found on Amazon that has 2 plugs and three USB charging ports! I can power from either side of the board and / or power my monitors all with one power cord. Everything is dressed down with the use of sticky zip tie mounts and zip ties!

The FM and dB instruments are both held on with screws while the Shure wireless is held on with HD velcro.

There is only one other item I am considering for my board and that's a Peterson HD strobe tuner! Everything will be housed in a Studio Slips bag made to spec!View attachment 112342View attachment 112343View attachment 112344View attachment 112345View attachment 112346View attachment 112347View attachment 112340
View attachment 112351
Can I ask what power supply you used? I saw BleuJazz used a more expesnive Fuhrman with just 2x 3-prongs. I'd love to hook up the USB stuff so this looks intriguing.
 
OK I think I'm understanding what you mean...basically the ends of the power cord from FM9 to Furman (or any power supply) under the board are too big for the holes on the Temple board. So I would either need to cut and splice the cord once fished through OR just drill a bigger hole and sand it down. I think option 2 there is more my speed since splicing/soldering isn't (yet) in my arsenal. What did you (or anyone else) use to drill the hole? I don't have the pedal board in my hands yet, so not sure how thick the metal is.
You can buy a solderless IEC male or female plug for a few bucks.

The terminals are screw-down and work well. No splicing required... Cut the end off of your cable, route it thru the hole, attach the new end.

Here's a right angle version:

Toptekits IEC C13 Right Angled Power Cord Plug Connector ,IEC 320 C13 90 Degree Female Plug Rewirable Power Connector 3pin Socket 10A /250V (C13 Right Angled) https://a.co/d/9YexrLc

You can also find them (typically the male end) at your local hardware store.
 
OK I think I'm understanding what you mean...basically the ends of the power cord from FM9 to Furman (or any power supply) under the board are too big for the holes on the Temple board. So I would either need to cut and splice the cord once fished through OR just drill a bigger hole and sand it down. I think option 2 there is more my speed since splicing/soldering isn't (yet) in my arsenal. What did you (or anyone else) use to drill the hole? I don't have the pedal board in my hands yet, so not sure how thick the metal is.
I cut and replaced the male plug under the board for my FM9 power. Hardware stores carry a replacement plug for extension cords that works nicely and is UL approved....
 
OK I think I'm understanding what you mean...basically the ends of the power cord from FM9 to Furman (or any power supply) under the board are too big for the holes on the Temple board. So I would either need to cut and splice the cord once fished through OR just drill a bigger hole and sand it down. I think option 2 there is more my speed since splicing/soldering isn't (yet) in my arsenal. What did you (or anyone else) use to drill the hole? I don't have the pedal board in my hands yet, so not sure how thick the metal is.
I snipped a few extra holes around one of the bigger holes since I had left my drill at work and didn't feel like driving there on a weekend. It did not result in the cleanest thing so cutting a hole might be better. I thought about cutting and splicing the connector myself but went with this route instead.

1671660854992.png
 
Keeping pace with the rest of the planet...

Added ColuberCable lower-profile right-angle XLR/TRS cable that replace my straight Temple Audio XLR>TRS cable...for the occasional juke box hero who trips over my Duo 34 while dancing too close to the stage. Although you can't see the back panel too well, the Coluber's are angled up like dove's wings, while my Output 2 plug is angled down. Previously, the cable end plugs sat too close to the top of the Duo 34, which rendered the cable unusable.

A message to ColuberCable solved the problem; they provided a YT link that detailed how to rotate the female jack within the cable-end housing. Initial attempt proved interesting, it put the cable end parallel to the top of the board, which caused some connection issues horizontally. A little adjustment produced the current results.

ctMXtBu.jpg

What are those clear covers and where to get? Do you have to mod the unit (ie. drill into it?) Has to be since there's no existing screws or holes there in a stock FM9.
 
Back
Top Bottom