Will going from 10s to 9s require nut work? Will it change my tone?

A sometimes overlooked benefit of lighter strings is they will make your frets last longer. Less tension means less fretting pressure is required. Less pressure means less friction and wear.
 
To me there's a world of difference. I know I'm the minority from the way other players talk about it, but I just feel like it's the difference between two different guitars. And neither is inherently better, in my opinion; it's just about what inspires you. I've played 10s most of my life, then I went to 9s, but I missed the tone and feel. For the past many years I've played balanced tension 10s, which are lower in overall tension that a traditional set, and they work very well for me right now.

I say try the 9s and let your heart guide you. The answer to me it's when you get that gestalt reaction and you say "Oh, this is what feels right." Big deal if they don't work out. You never know, your tastes may have changed over time, and that's usually a refinement of your style. Good luck!
 
After 3 hand surgeries I went from 10s/11s to 9-46 on all of my guitars and have been using them for many years now (GHS Boomers). I went through a period where I lost some of the feeling in my left hand and I just couldn't feel the lighter string as well, the heavier bottom set helped with that. Now I am trying 9s and even 8s. To my surprise, the lighter strings seem to blend a little more where I hear more of the individual strings with the heavier gauge, and of course they are "easier" to play. Setup wise, as long as the nut is cut well you shouldn't have any problems there but you will probably need to adjust the truss rod and the trem springs for sure on a floating setup.
 
To me there's a world of difference. I know I'm the minority from the way other players talk about it, but I just feel like it's the difference between two different guitars. And neither is inherently better, in my opinion; it's just about what inspires you. I've played 10s most of my life, then I went to 9s, but I missed the tone and feel. For the past many years I've played balanced tension 10s, which are lower in overall tension that a traditional set, and they work very well for me right now.

I say try the 9s and let your heart guide you. The answer to me it's when you get that gestalt reaction and you say "Oh, this is what feels right." Big deal if they don't work out. You never know, your tastes may have changed over time, and that's usually a refinement of your style. Good luck!
But you need time to adjust to anything different in a musical instrument. You need to play it exclusively for a couple of weeks just to to get over mistaking familiarity for better. It’s the same with fret size and radius. Every die hard 6230 7.25” fender user I persuaded to try 12” and 6100 did it to prove me wrong and every one is still using it 🤣
They all thought they couldn’t wait to get back but they actually gave themselves time to get accustomed to the benefits of better grip and geometry. The owner of this was one;
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A die hard vintage Fender player.
 
I play standard. I use EB Hybrid on my fixed bridge and 9’s on my floating bridge guitars.
All of my guitars with the exception of my 7 string are 25.5 scale, which matters when choosing string gauge type in conjunction with tuning.
These gauges allow for the tension and comfort of my preferred playing style.
 
Related, I'm pretty sure i used to have a lighter touch w both hands than i do now, probably because i played A LOT more every day, between gigging and being obsessed. It'll be interesting to see what effect going back to 9s has on that. A lighter right hand can affect tone a lot, so there are a bunch of interdependent factors here.

Just going to have to see.
 
But you need time to adjust to anything different in a musical instrument. You need to play it exclusively for a couple of weeks just to to get over mistaking familiarity for better. It’s the same with fret size and radius. Every die hard 6230 7.25” fender user I persuaded to try 12” and 6100 did it to prove me wrong and every one is still using it 🤣
They all thought they couldn’t wait to get back but they actually gave themselves time to get accustomed to the benefits of better grip and geometry. The owner of this was one;
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A die hard vintage Fender player.

I wasn't even meaning to touch on that, just to say instead that to me the tonal difference is huge.

You can of course compensate tonally for string gauges in many ways, especially with the myriad tools Fractal owners have, but when I hear great tone, in my mind first and foremost I hear a great sounding guitar and an innate understanding of audio engineering, whether you're trained or not. The difference in tone between string gauge is very much there to me no matter what, from a player's perspective. Not that you can't get Stevie Ray Vaughan tone with 9 gauge strings, because you can! In an audience you can't tell.

To your main point, getting used to the feel of something is what practice is, whether you're getting used to a weird ass lick or getting used to a different fret size! So if you do it long enough, it won't be a big deal.

But I do think the size of your hands, your overall physical shape and fitness, and just the natural movement of your tendons and muscles matter in terms of what neck shape and pick grip promote the least obstacles to free musical expression.

And I think there's no one way for optimal playing because human bodies are just so different, and a neck and pick are best shaped to accommodate that, in an ideal world. Immediately I think about the Shawn Lane Vigier model, optimized for genius and prodigy who specs for a completely flat neck and the lowest action humanly attainable. I'm not arguing with anything that guy would choose.

On the other hand, other masters, all with access to spec out their own ideal shapes, end up going for something different, and I don't argue with them either haha!

I have no idea what different players go for in fret size, and that's one thing I'd love to understand better in my own preference. The best playing period of my life was on an Epiphone Les Paul with tiny frets, but I know for sure the reason for that was the guitar sounded beautiful, and it just inspired the hell out of me. That same guitar felt like it was breaking my wrist because of the neck heel, and it drove me straight into the arms of a piece of shit sounding superstrat that was comfortable in a million ways, but I've never played as well because I didn't feel tonally connected.

Back to your point again, you can get used to any neck, like the Enduroneck, e.g., and get used to what Ola Strandberg thinks is optimal from thumb placement, but I don't think that neck is actually the optimal grip or technique for everybody. The main thing I did when I tried a Boden was to make sure I could get around his thumb guide without feeling hindered. I could maybe get behind that idea if Ola were a master player, but like some famous guitar company founders, he is not. I could empathize more if he were an orthopaedic researcher who had done a decade of peer reviewed testing of guitarists, but he's not that either. He's just a dude who created a shape to his preference, but his company's success doesn't grant him any real objective say over what is best for guitarists.

To Tyler, I can't say anything. I've never played one, as I've never remotely been in that price range. I know they have some sort of Chinese made line in the works, so maybe I can feel one of those one day!
 
A pro friend of mine was using 10s on a nut cut for 9s. He said it was making the strings "ping" when he used the whammy bar. Adding graphite helped but not always. Maybe it was just a poorly cut nut, but when his tech made a new one, the problem went away.
 
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Sounds like the slots were a hair too tight for the 10's. I've always heard for best tone and vibration transfer, the slot should ideally match the string exactly. However on a trem equipped guitar, I think a tiny bit of breathing room in the slots can help keep things from binding as much. A well cut nut definitely takes lots of practice and the right tools.
 
I've gone from 11's to 9's on the same guitar. I've used a pencil to lubricate the nut when using a higher gauge, but I haven't had any noticeable issues when lowering gauge, maybe a slight truss rod adjustment, but it's never been a big issue for me.
 
A pro friend of mine was using 10s on a nut cut for 9s. He said it was making the strings "ping" when he used the whammy bar. Adding graphite helped but not always. Maybe it was just a poorly cut nut, but when his tech made a new one, the problem went away.
All the tech had to do to solve that problem was to open the existing slots just a little bit, and the pinging problem would have disappeared — assuming there were no other problems with the nut. That ping is a classic symptom of a string binding at the nut because the nut slot is too narrow. Graphite can ease that problem sometimes, but it can’t solve the problem.
 
I was watching an Andy Wood episode where he was changing strings etc, and he showed that every time he changes strings, before he winds it into the tuning peg, he just slides the string into the nut and works it back and forth to check slippery fit. Once it checks out, then he winds it on. Pretty smart, 100% confidence each string is not binding, and if it is, he knows which one, and plans on what to do about it.

Other smart tip was with tremolo guitars, he always tunes the D and G strings first, them tunes the edge E and B, then back to D and G, then to E and A, back to D and G, and so on. The logic is to stop chasing the tuning on the "seesaw" of the tremolo, and approach stable harmony by keeping the tremolo "level" and stable.

Little things we all should know (but don't practice), and helpful.
Yep ! I stole his tuning tremolo guitars idea and it works great.
 
So, will everything sound all wimpy and thin with 9s?

I used them for many years, then switched to 10s some years back, thinking that tones would be "sturdier" or something, but from here i have no idea how much actual difference it makes to the sound.

I know they'll feel different, tone is less clear to me.

What say you all?
My experience going 10-46 to 9-42 on a les paul says no wimpy sound there.
 
All the tech had to do to solve that problem was to open the existing slots just a little bit, and the pinging problem would have disappeared — assuming there were no other problems with the nut. That ping is a classic symptom of a string binding at the nut because the nut slot is too narrow. Graphite can ease that problem sometimes, but it can’t solve the problem.
This is the opposite issue. 10 to 9 would have a too loose slot . The ping would be the string moving from one side to the other during a bend.
 
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