@joegold
I am curious. Could you maybe post a patch or two with the IR. Then we can try it. Maybe the problem is not with the K10 but with the patch/IR. I have a k10 to try it on.
Another thing that I'd suggest is that when you change from the poweramp/guitar-cab setup to FRFR. It might not be good to use the same patches but instead starting with
an amp/IR (in the patch) and build it from there. Perhaps you already did that?
Jens
View attachment C1FR.syx
View attachment S1FR.syx
These are the two presets I was working with when I was trying out the K10 and trying to make it sound as musical (to me, for my purposes) as possible.
The PEQ at the end of the Layout in the C1FR (Clean FR) preset is not really necessary and is Bypassed.
The PEQ at the end of the S1FR (Sol FR) preset sounds better when it's on.
These were made for a Strat with Suhr V60LP pickups.
The clean preset is for any pickup combination and is a bright 100% clean rhythm tone suitable for R&B and pop music chording.
The solo tone is for the bridge + middle pickup position or the bridge only. It's a bit muddy on the positions that use the neck pickup.
The IR is just the stock 2 X 12 Black IR.
*This* is as good as I was able to get the K10 to sound for me in the time I had it.
These presets sound fine through my NS10s and the Yorkville YSM2P studio monitors I just rented.
They sound OK thru the K10 too, just not great.
I have similar presets that do sound great, to me, through my EVM-12Ls (with Cab Block bypassed).
The term that kept coming to mind for the K10s top end as I was working with it was "clangorous" but having just looked that up in the dictionary it's not wholly apt.
"Metallic", "ringing", "hard", "spikey", etc. are other highly scientific
terms that come to mind.
[You'll notice that with C1FR, using the double Verb sim, that I have the Master set low for a non-Master-Vol-Amp-Type and the Drive set high.
Normally that would be reversed with the Master cranked and the Drive much lower than it is.
This preset was also an experiment about using a higher Drive setting with this sim.
I found that by using these Master and Drive values I was able to get the other controls to behave much more like they do on a real Fender Twin, especially the Treble parameter. With a low Drive value the DV's Treble control, when the Bright Switch is on, the sim is simply too bright and needs to be at 12:00 or lower.
Getting the Drive control of the preamp sim above 6 seems (to me) to bring the Treble control back into the same range, sound-wise, as the way it works on a real Twin which I would normally run between 6 and 7 when I have its Bright switch on.
But usually, when I work with the DV sim for a clean bright tone, I'd have the Master cranked, the Drive around 3.0, the bright Switch on, the Treble parameter below 12:00 (Passive tone Stack btw) and the Presence parameter (which doesn't even exist on a real Twin) at about 10:00 or 11:00.]