Lo Pro Edge trem block torn apart by itself. Need block replacement (or new guitar)

I should add that what @Piing posted looks like a case of dissimilarity corrosion. Probably something in the pot metal that didn’t get along with the bolt threads.

Edit: at least it was on the example I worked on.
 
Musikron said:
Looks to me almost like they were over tightened, stripping out the threads. I don't think your AC had anything to do with it, nor do I think it worked loose. Hearing that crack was tension releasing when the threads gave way. It was too tight and stretched the screws just a bit much.
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I completely dismounted it a couple of years ago for a subtle file-reshape of the edges curves that had a dent. I would not be surprised that I didn't tight it properly.

That, plus maybe corrosion after I touched the screws wit with my fingers, as @ruso has just mentioned.

I've also ordered new screws from fu-tone. I will make sure that I do not contaminate them with my DNA, and add a drop of threadlocker
 
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ruso said:
I should add that what @Piing posted looks like a case of dissimilarity corrosion. Probably something in the pot metal that didn’t get along with the bolt threads.

Edit: at least it was on the example I worked on.
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Not corrosion, it's caused by fatigue in the thread when the trem is used with these bolts slightly loose.
 
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On minor thing about FU blocks; Why assume that bell brass is good at resonating across a wide range of frequencies found in the guitar? It isn't and who wants their guitar to sound more like a bell? smaller blocks impart less of their (possibly negative ) character on the instrument and allow the string energy to pass through more to interact withe the body. The string energy is governed by how hard you hit the string and if the string can then vibrate freely. If that parts stays the same adding mass to the block literally blocks the string energy reflecting it back in to the vibrating string adding sustain but loosing body interaction . Also being bell brass it imparts IT'S character on what notes it reflects and which it doesn't .
This is why if you have a guitar with a Floyd and dead or over loud notes swapping out the block for a high mass one is a good place to start. But for everybody else all you get is different. You may like it but just as possible that you won't. Hardly an upgrade , more a lottery.
 
Andy Eagle said:
On minor thing about FU blocks; Why assume that bell brass is good at resonating across a wide range of frequencies found in the guitar? It isn't and who wants their guitar to sound more like a bell? smaller blocks impart less of their (possibly negative ) character on the instrument and allow the string energy to pass through more to interact withe the body. The string energy is governed by how hard you hit the string and if the string can then vibrate freely. If that parts stays the same adding mass to the block literally blocks the string energy reflecting it back in to the vibrating string adding sustain but loosing body interaction . Also being bell brass it imparts IT'S character on what notes it reflects and which it doesn't .
This is why if you have a guitar with a Floyd and dead or over loud notes swapping out the block for a high mass one is a good place to start. But for everybody else all you get is different. You may like it but just as possible that you won't. Hardly an upgrade , more a lottery.
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Honestly i can't sonically tell the difference between a steel or brass block. Brass is shiny tho...lol
 
Andy Eagle said:
On minor thing about FU blocks; Why assume that bell brass is good at resonating across a wide range of frequencies found in the guitar? It isn't and who wants their guitar to sound more like a bell? smaller blocks impart less of their (possibly negative ) character on the instrument and allow the string energy to pass through more to interact withe the body. The string energy is governed by how hard you hit the string and if the string can then vibrate freely. If that parts stays the same adding mass to the block literally blocks the string energy reflecting it back in to the vibrating string adding sustain but loosing body interaction . Also being bell brass it imparts IT'S character on what notes it reflects and which it doesn't .
This is why if you have a guitar with a Floyd and dead or over loud notes swapping out the block for a high mass one is a good place to start. But for everybody else all you get is different. You may like it but just as possible that you won't. Hardly an upgrade , more a lottery.
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Honestly i can't sonically tell the difference between a steel or brass block. Brass is shiny tho. Lol
I'd use brass over titanium. In my opinion titanium is the worst material to use on a bridge.
 
At my Suhr Modern Satin with dead note I replaced the slim block with a thicker brass block, but it did not solve the dead note issue and I couldn't notice any difference in tone. That replacement was a waste of money. I have ordered brass for the Lo-Pro-Edge because it is the only one I've found available.
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Piing said:
At my Suhr Modern Satin with dead note I replaced the slim block with a thicker brass block, but it did not solve the dead note issue and I couldn't notice any difference in tone. That replacement was a waste of money. I have ordered brass for the Lo-Pro-Edge because it is the only one I've found available.
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It's not a guaranteed fix but it is something you can try because it is the only way of altering the mass of a key component. It depends on how near the resonant frequency of the neck is to a dissonance with the body. A small change in the block may not always move it far enough to work.
 
Andy Eagle said:
It's not a guaranteed fix but it is something you can try because it is the only way of altering the mass of a key component. It depends on how near the resonant frequency of the neck is to a dissonance with the body. A small change in the block may not always move it far enough to work.
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You don't even want to know some of the extremes I've gone to rid a guitar of that before.
 
I've found an interim replacement for my RG550LTD while I wait for the new trem block :cool:
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I am not keeping it. It is for re$ell.

It is an excellent guitar, but the colors look like these fluorescent marking pens that kids use at school. The access to the upper frets is annoying with the square neck block, nothing like a AANJ, and I don't know who had the silly idea of sculpting a useless handle at the body. The neck is a marvel. It's been a pleasant experience, and I am making almost 1k with the transaction.

I'm looking forward to have my old RG back into business, and thinking of scalloping it from the 12th fret and refretting
 
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Just a little PSA…

I had to replace a fret on my 2019 MIM Fender Strat. While I had the strings off, I was curious about the screws attaching the bridge plate to the trem block, and low and behold, they were all finger-tight!

Next time you have your strings off, check ‘em, because they too might be loose.
 
multiple options:

1-drill out metric hardware to the next English size, tap new threads, get new flathead screws to match new threads. You may need to open up the countersinks for the new screws on the saddle plate.
2-look on verb and *bay for an exact replacement block, people chop shop parts all the time. research dimensions for the 3 bolt span, it may be generic enough to use a universal metric replacement.
3-find a aftermarket "big block" to replace it, you'll get more sustain as most are made of brass.
4-buy a new/used Lo Pro bridge. easiest, most expensive solution.
 
drilling for a heilcoil takes more meat off of the block than going from the metric size to next bigger English, plus you'll need to get a tap for the coils, buy the coils and an insertion tool.
great fix if you have the stuff. I used to fabricate electronic test gear and use heilcoils all the time, so I had the stock and tools available daily.

these guys are expensive, but sell what you are looking for.https://www.fu-tone.com/product-category/big-blocks/big-blocks-ibanez/
cheaper and OEM: https://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/FROTB32P--floyd-rose-frotb32p-original-tremolo-block-32mm, it may be plug and play.

Floyd Rose Original Tremolo Block Features:​

  • OEM replacement part for Floyd Rose Original, Special, and 1000 Series tremolo systems
  • Center-to-center hole spacing: 1.345 inches/34mm - this is what needs to match!!
  • Nickel-plated brass offers incredible sustain
  • Depth: 32mm for deepy recessed bridges
  • Made in Germany
  • Easy to install

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Dickie Fredericks said:
I'd check to see if a Gotoh fits and if so, I'd replace w that.
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I've already received the brass block from Fu-Tone. I don't know if it is the new firmware, or that I've been missing this guitar for a long time, but it feels great.

It is not only fatter but also quite taller than the original Ibanez, so the top of the springs slightly touch the back cover. That could be solved by carving grooves for the springs at the block, but that is not a problem for me because I never cover it. And now I have another reason to not cover the ass, because the friendly people at Fu-Tone was so kind to give me these cool green springs for free 🐸:)
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Have I mentioned already that I've owned JEM777, JEM7V-WH, JJS2450, j-Customs, Prestiges, Suhr, etc... but this old axe is still my #1? 🤠
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And I love the Schaller Tremstop. Quick convert to hardtail and tuning to Drop D or a semitone down without destabilizing the bridge
 
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