Let's see those FM9 rigs!

I respectfully disagree with this. Although that works, a better solution (totally just my opinion) is to cut and resolder an IEC cable, using heat shrink for the internal wires and then the outer wire. This works well and doesn't require making permanent alterations to the temple board. It also results in a cleaner looking install.
Your solution works as well. My feeling was that a cut/soldered cable might pose problems with time, and the drilled access hole allows one to feed a IEC through it with no damage to cable. Cleaner, yes! Ojalá que! Both my and my tech buddy's soldering skills were not as adept as his drilling ones. We chose the path of least resistance.
 
I respectfully disagree with this. Although that works, a better solution (totally just my opinion) is to cut and resolder an IEC cable, using heat shrink for the internal wires and then the outer wire. This works well and doesn't require making permanent alterations to the temple board. It also results in a cleaner looking install.
Don't even need to solder... You can buy another plug with screw down terminals for a few bucks at the local hardware store. ;)
 
I respectfully disagree with this. Although that works, a better solution (totally just my opinion) is to cut and resolder an IEC cable, using heat shrink for the internal wires and then the outer wire. This works well and doesn't require making permanent alterations to the temple board. It also results in a cleaner looking install.
That's all true. But, it also makes it harder (or at least uglier) to repair if that cable ever fails.

That being said, in my whole life, I think I can count on one hand the number of power cables I've had go bad. But still. The day I permanently install one will be the day I raise another finger.
 
That's all true. But, it also makes it harder (or at least uglier) to repair if that cable ever fails.

That being said, in my whole life, I think I can count on one hand the number of power cables I've had go bad. But still. The day I permanently install one will be the day I raise another finger.
I've never had an iec cable fail. Yet. I built one like I described for my FM3 and had no issues but I didn't use it long because I ended up ditching that building.

I'd agree it's adding in a potential point of failure but it's still tough to see it going bad; the solder joint was incredibly simple and was rock solid. In subsequent Temple-based builds (I think pics are in this thread) I didn't bother at all. I just ran the IEC straight out of the FM9 into the wall.

Anyway, it's all just options. About anything will work. Just depends what each person prefers.
 
This is what I did on an FM3 board that I put together. I enlarged one of the access holes that was going to be mostly covered by the FM3. It worked great and was hardly noticeable.
If I may, drilling out one of the larger access holes, sanding the edges down with metal sandpaper and tapping the edges over with electrical tape provides the best solution. Locate a 18" or 2' IEC cable that can connect to a power supply underneath, or buy a Temple Audio IEC module that can connect to the closer side of your TA board. Standard IEC including Temple Audio IEC does not fit thru the undrilled access holes.

My Duo 34 utilizes a Furman AC-215A power supply and a TA IEC Module. Saves on needing to lug a spare surge protector/power strip around in my gear bag. Only thing that might require a surge protector is one of my FRFR108s I'd put on the floor. House PA usually has that covered.

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Ok, for real now:

View attachment 92179

This is a dry run of the 2 sections inside my Pelican Vault case (for which I've not yet cut the foam).

Here is the bottom view of the FM9.

I've got a Voodoo Lab Pedal Power 2 being fed by a Temple IEC module. That powers the FM9 and the Audiofront Expression IO that's used for passing expression pedal input via midi to the FM9. The expression pedals are fed thru Temple passthru modules from the other board.

There are 3 momentary normally closed switches wired directly to TS jacks with bare 14g wire (from Romex - great idea from @Joe Bfstplk!) that are cabled to the FM9 with George Ls cables.

There are also 2 USB passthru modules for connecting my computer to the FM9 and Expression IO.

The Pedal Power 2 and Expression IO are attached with small Temple mounting plates. Everything else is directly thru the board:

View attachment 92181

And the expression pedal board:

View attachment 92184

Note that I relocated the input jacks on the 2 middle pedals to make 4 fit on the board:

View attachment 92182

Here's the other variation for the scenario that I decide to use my Axe Fx III - just swap the FM9 board for the FC-12 board.

This one is simpler - only the passthru module for feeding expression pedals into the FC-12:

View attachment 92180
This is nuts! I'm thinking of doing something similar. How did the foam cutting go? Can we get some updated pics of the case with the foam cut?
 
This is nuts! I'm thinking of doing something similar. How did the foam cutting go? Can we get some updated pics of the case with the foam cut?
I haven't cut it yet! :D

There's honestly not going to be much foam left. I'll probably just create some "bumpers" a few inches thick along the long sides.

The few times I've used it, I take everything out except the thin upper and lower foam.

Then I put the boards in place with a thin foam piece between the 2 of them, and a block that's maybe 16x4x4 wedged into one side of the case that prevents shifting.

It's frigging heavy loaded up but it works well.

I've been thinking about cutting the Duo 24 down by a few inches to allow adding some more foam between the 2 boards but haven't decided yet.
 
That's all true. But, it also makes it harder (or at least uglier) to repair if that cable ever fails.

That being said, in my whole life, I think I can count on one hand the number of power cables I've had go bad. But still. The day I permanently install one will be the day I raise another finger.
TBH, it's happened to me at least twice if not 3 times. XLRs or soldered TS cables. I'd rather not let potentially bad cables eat into my savings than just sidestep the process altogether and kindly inform people larger access holes won't damage what you put in, IF you sand down the sharp drilled metal edges and tape over them to safeguard them.

By comparison, my history with pedalboards is comparatively good, save for the few instances where connecting cables were tested before transit time, discovered they'd need repair, and were replaced PRIOR to showtime.

Yes, like many guitarists who have gigged in their lifetime, we do the idiot check and insure that we have not forgotten anything, tested our gear, checked tubes, cable & effects connections, recorded choice preset levels, etc.

Only twice or 3 times, and each time, performance crisis was averted. It's practical wisdom, my friends, you learn to apply to your daily routine, just like regular car or home maintenance. When you do this, you avoid stress and costlier expenses every. single. time.

AND....you don't need a college education for this.
 
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Sorry to post this a second time, but I re-worked the switch box and feel like it's "done" now lol. Switch on the left is momentary for whammy and FreqOut emulation. Bottom right is a latching switch that engages my auto wah (next upgrade will be an LED for that...so I guess its still not done!). Top right is a momentary that isn't being used right now but I'm sure I'll find something for it to do!
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I haven't cut it yet! :D

There's honestly not going to be much foam left. I'll probably just create some "bumpers" a few inches thick along the long sides.

The few times I've used it, I take everything out except the thin upper and lower foam.

Then I put the boards in place with a thin foam piece between the 2 of them, and a block that's maybe 16x4x4 wedged into one side of the case that prevents shifting.

It's frigging heavy loaded up but it works well.

I've been thinking about cutting the Duo 24 down by a few inches to allow adding some more foam between the 2 boards but haven't decided yet.
That makes sense. Do you have to squish the lid down onto the boards in order to close it?
 
TBH, it's happened to me at least twice if not 3 times. XLRs or soldered TS cables. I'd rather not let potentially bad cables eat into my savings than just sidestep the process altogether and kindly inform people larger access holes won't damage what you put in, IF you sand down the sharp drilled metal edges and tape over them to safeguard them.

Agreed. But, I've had a lot more XLR/TRS/TS cables fail than IEC power cables. I had a pedalboard cable go bad just the other day....no idea what happened...the connector shroud thing fell apart and it stopped passing signal. It was also a super-cheap pre-made, so it just got replaced.

I think a lot of the shoddy/cheap manufacturers are lazier with audio cables made to carry maybe 1V than they are with power cables designed to carry 120/220V. I think they just don't want to get sued if they hurt someone.

At any rate, carrying a few extra patch cables and maybe a cable tester seems like good practice.
 
...I think a lot of the shoddy/cheap manufacturers are lazier with audio cables made to carry maybe 1V than they are with power cables designed to carry 120/220V. I think they just don't want to get sued if they hurt someone.

At any rate, carrying a few extra patch cables and maybe a cable tester seems like good practice.
Yup. In the gear bag at all times. It's also because IEC cable requires heavier gauge wire than 1V audio cables. 1V audio cables are typically core with braided shielded cable that don't usually have molded connectors, for reason of the TS/TRS plugs. XLRs are slightly better in this regard because of the molded connectors, but still fail after misuse or abuse.

Consider that 120VAC requires reliable and safe connections because of the possible electrical hazard. You can build cheaper cables when they don't pose as much of a threat to the consumer's safety. Yet, realize that cheaper stuff breaks more often than quality does; the old "you get what you pay for" mantra...
 
I think a lot of the shoddy/cheap manufacturers are lazier with audio cables made to carry maybe 1V than they are with power cables designed to carry 120/220V. I think they just don't want to get sued if they hurt someone.

Yeah, the payouts are a lot lower for “ruining” the gig than they are for burning down the house.
 
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