Lake Butler Midi Midigator

guitarman52

New Member
I have a Midi Midigator which I have lost the Power Supply to
Does anyone happen to know where or HOW I can get this Powered up again..
I really like this pedal it had features then that most new controllers don't and the ones that do
cost an arm a leg a few other body parts to purchase.....
anyway if anyone can help....thanks in advance...
George
 
I have three RFC-1s, and three power supplies. Two of the supplies no longer work. I think the cables are bad.

The output plug is a 5-pin DIN with 240 degree pin spacing. I tried to attach a jpg of the plug pinout, but I get an error saying the board attachment quota has been reached. Only three pins are used; 24 volts ac across pins 1 and 3 with a center tap at pin 4 (12 volts ac across pins 1-4 and 3-4). I doubt that there is much more inside the case than a center tap transformer.

I'll post again when I have opened up the case. So far, I have failed to find an exact replacement for the entire supply.
 
Lake Butler RFC-1 Mitigator

Does anyone know what type of power cable/adapter is used to power a Mitigator RFC-1? Does anyone know where to buy one or if it can me made? Will The Midi input accept phantom power from a 5-pin powered midi cable?
 
could you please email me the picture of the RFC-1's output plug? Is it 12v on the power supply plug? Thanks!
 
I located a source for the adapter and the plugs. My links to the plugs and supply were deleted, so I guess anyone wanting the info will have to send me a PM.

You can buy the adapter cheap, but it has the wrong plug. The correct plug is also available cheap. You will have to replace the plug yourself.

The "adapter" is nothing more than a transformer with a center tapped secondary. The adapter is rated at 17.5 volts ac, but actually puts out 19.5 ac across the secondary. The voltage readings in my picture are approximate and were taken with a super cheap meter. The current rating is 0.7 amps.

After opening up my broken supplies, it appears the transformers themselves are bad. That doesn't speak well for their quality. Or perhaps I shorted out the secondaries doing something stupid like measuring the voltage. They are over twenty years old, so who knows?

Note that the plug is NOT a standard 5-pin DIN (like a midi plug). The pins are spaced in a 240 degree arc instead of 180 degrees.

The Mitigator will not accept phantom power.
 

Attachments

  • RFC-1 Power Pinout.JPG
    RFC-1 Power Pinout.JPG
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Thanks for the info. I've tracked down the correct plug and adapter, will your diagram of the pins be enough for a technician to know how to wire them together or would I need further instructions?
 
I sent you a PM. Wiring it up is easy. The diagram should be all you need. If you have any questions though, just ask.
 
Got the plugs, I'm still waiting on the transformer to arrive... How do I change the Ni-Cad battery inside the RFC-1? Are these batteries still available? It appears to be soldered to the board. My RFC-1 arrived with one end of the battery separated from the contacts on the board. Should I just solder it back? Will that hold it to the board securely? The battery seems heavy so I'm concerned it will just break off again. Seems strange that I would have to resort to securing it with tape. Quite surprising since these units have a reputation for being built tough!
 
I haven't found a direct replacement for the VARTA 3/V170R, but any 3.6 volt NiCad with over 200 mAH should work. Radio Shack has a couple of candidates, but they are not a direct replacement and would have to be installed as a kludge. I would replace the old one for sure. All three of my units won't hold a charge for very long now.

I am refurbishing my units, including replacing the battery and having the eproms copied (to refresh them as they are over 20 years old). I hope that 'bit rot' isn't occurring, as one of the units now corrupts data when it packs memory.

If I find a good replacement battery, I'll let you know.
 
Thanks. You've been my #1 and only resource for RFC-1 information up until now. I even joined an RFC-1 yahoo group but hardly anybody visits the page to answer questions. I really appreciate your help so much. I have another question about the RFC-1's data buttons. They don't feel like regular buttons. How do they work? and what's under the rubber foot switches? Can they be replaced with regular Stomp style switches? Have you tried modifying them in any way? I've seen some with rubber stoppers glued on for supposedly an improved response when pressed.
 
The data buttons and switches are membrane -type. If you peel off the rubber pad, you will see that each switch is a circular white disk with an amber center, entirely flush with the surface of the unit. The switches have no apparent movement when pressed. The rubber 'pedals' each have a rubber bump on the underside that pushes the amber center when pressed. All you feel is the squish of the rubber. Since the switch's LED will light, and the main display will flicker briefly when a switch is pressed, I am satisfied that I have engaged the switch without a mechanical 'click'. I also like the silent operation. The glue-on rubber foot solution might actually work well if you find the right product.

Lake Butler originally offered an option for mechanical switches, but I have no details of the design. If you can track down Emmett Bradford (the designer), you may be able to get some info, but I doubt he is interested in support after all this time.

I also have info for the 32K memory upgrade if you are interested. I finally found it in my garage after a long search. With it, you can program each of the 5 switches in each of the 128 banks (640 total) with over 16 midi commands each. I have no info for the 64k upgrade, although I doubt I would ever need 32 commands on each of 640 switches :) Although obsolete, the memory chips are still available, as are the blank eproms. Your unit may already have 32k though. The later ones even came with 64k. Still seems small, but midi commands don't take much memory.

After hearing about the problems with the SoftStep, I have decided to refurb all of my Mitigators, including battery replacement, eprom refresh, memory upgrade, paint job, and cc pedal refurbish. I still cannot find a source for a pedal with a 100k log taper pot. My Cry Baby pot is clearly linear, or at least much closer to linear than log.

While a couple of current footswitch units will do the job I need (like the Gordius), they are just too expensive for my budget.
 
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BTW I had to resolder the battery a couple of months ago. It wouldn't hold it's memory when it was powered down. I opened it up and low and behold! One of the contacts was loose. I mean I could hear the thing rattling around in there if I'd only put two and two together. It's now running like a champ again!
 
steadystate - what's the softstep and what problem are you referring to? The regular lame rubber foot stomp? I'd love to see your refurb when you get to it!
 
The SoftStep is a new midi footcontroller that has capabilities that are similar to the Mitigator in many respects, and surpass it in others. Unfortunately, several owners say the software is not working correctly, and "standalone mode", which lets you use it without a computer connected, only allows you to have 16 banks of 5 switches each.

http://www.keithmcmillen.com/softstep/overview

With some development, this product will be awesome. But it apparently does not work as described. I have a bird in the hand, so I'm going with that, even if the bird takes a dump on me once in a while.
 
I located a source for the adapter and the plugs. My links to the plugs and supply were deleted, so I guess anyone wanting the info will have to send me a PM.

You can buy the adapter cheap, but it has the wrong plug. The correct plug is also available cheap. You will have to replace the plug yourself.

The "adapter" is nothing more than a transformer with a center tapped secondary. The adapter is rated at 17.5 volts ac, but actually puts out 19.5 ac across the secondary. The voltage readings in my picture are approximate and were taken with a super cheap meter. The current rating is 0.7 amps.

After opening up my broken supplies, it appears the transformers themselves are bad. That doesn't speak well for their quality. Or perhaps I shorted out the secondaries doing something stupid like measuring the voltage. They are over twenty years old, so who knows?

Note that the plug is NOT a standard 5-pin DIN (like a midi plug). The pins are spaced in a 240 degree arc instead of 180 degrees.

The Mitigator will not accept phantom power.
 
Recently got an RFC-1 replacement unit but it has no power supply - this forum/thread was recommended to me - I sure could use the details on the replacement power supply info if still available - that SoftStep looks interesting as well, will check into that.

Thanks!
Steve
 
I haven't found a direct replacement for the VARTA 3/V170R, but any 3.6 volt NiCad with over 200 mAH should work. Radio Shack has a couple of candidates, but they are not a direct replacement and would have to be installed as a kludge. I would replace the old one for sure. All three of my units won't hold a charge for very long now.

I am refurbishing my units, including replacing the battery and having the eproms copied (to refresh them as they are over 20 years old). I hope that 'bit rot' isn't occurring, as one of the units now corrupts data when it packs memory.

If I find a good replacement battery, I'll let you know.
Hi there! Would you still have the eproms file to share with me? I just bought my midi mitigator and wanted to backup the ROM but I don't dare messing around with the chip. Thanks!
 
Does anyone know the power pinouts for the 5-pin connector on the Mitigator power supplies?
I have a power supply and bought the 5-pin connector for it (the power supply cable does not have a connector on it)
and I need to solder on the connector correctly.
thanks
Matt
 
...

I also have info for the 32K memory upgrade if you are interested. I finally found it in my garage after a long search. With it, you can program each of the 5 switches in each of the 128 banks (640 total) with over 16 midi commands each. I have no info for the 64k upgrade, although I doubt I would ever need 32 commands on each of 640 switches :) Although obsolete, the memory chips are still available, as are the blank eproms. Your unit may already have 32k though. The later ones even came with 64k. Still seems small, but midi commands don't take much memory.

...
@steadystate

Your post is now fossilized but if you're still active, I'm quite interested in the RAM upgrade info you have (had?). Just shouting out to see!

Thx
 
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