JP6 Floating Trem Problems

Tonemeister

Tonemeister

Experienced
I know a bunch of you guys have MusicMan JP models. I just got a 2012 JP6 (no piezo option) and it has the MusicMan floating trem system. Do all of yours stay in tune after whammy usage? I bought the guitar because I needed a guitar to do some whammy stuff with. Problem is that with the slightest usage it throws the guitar out of tune. I read somewhere that the strings are pinned over an edge inside the trem and that they can get stuck when you use the trem and not return to pitch. There seem to be so many happy customers of these guitars, not to mention JP himself. Anybody got any tips for me on how to keep this thing in tune?
 
It should stay perfectly in tune (within reason of course) . The JP trem is one of the best I've ever used. You should contact EBMM customer services for some advice and get this sorted asap - give them a call 866-823-2255
 
My first guess is the string nut,get some graphite ,can even use a pencil,just rub it over the string slots . Not sure how the bridges are set for those, but I'd make sure its parallel with the body.Also make sure the stings are stretched.
 
EdgE said:
My first guess is the string nut,get some graphite ,can even use a pencil,just rub it over the string slots . Not sure how the bridges are set for those, but I'd make sure its parallel with the body.Also make sure the stings are stretched.
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Thanks Well I knew to try and lubricate the saddles and nut. I used some 3 in 1 oil but still having an issue. I can try cust support but I'll be surprised if they can help. I know there has to be something I can do here after all the praise I've heard for this trem.
 
Do I recall reading something about one of the bridge posts being slightly different to the other and as such, the trem can slip into the 'wrong' position unless perfectly set up..?

Sorry I can't be anymore specific, but I believe there was some issue surrounding this
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Cover'd said:
Do I recall reading something about one of the bridge posts being slightly different to the other and as such, the trem can slip into the 'wrong' position unless perfectly set up..?

Sorry I can't be anymore specific, but I believe there was some issue surrounding this
thinking.gif
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I am no expert on floating trems. I used to play guitars with Floyd Roses but switched exclusively to stop tails in the 90's (thanks Seattle). I have noticed on occasion when diving it will make a little hitch noise as if something is moving in the hardware that maybe shouldn't
 
I have two JP models and they both stay perfectly in tune, even with a lot of trem use. I bought them new, so both were factory set-up and I've never had to do anything special in the many years that I've had them. Only thing I'm careful with is to always change strings one-at-a-time, and never take all the strings off simultaneously (as this can be difficult to re-float properly). I suggest to take it to a luthier and have it set-up correctly.
 
love mine can try "super lube synthetic grease" nut, saddles, though Im no expert, it also worked great for a squeaky trem arm hole, and prob. other things which I shall not get into, jk :) few bucks on ebay, amazon
 
It can be a lot of things my first guess would be the knife blades on the trem, but it’s a new guitar so that’s out. My second would be the nut itself, I believe those guitars come with 10’s stock if you are using something heavier the nut my need to be widened a bit. Strings might be getting slightly bind-ed on the nut when you use the trem. Another thing to check is the neck itself, are the screws snug?

I have seen this a few times through the years guitar stays in tune except when you use the trem even a double locking system. Just checked the screws were the body and neck are put together tightened down, retune and done. Guitar now stays in tune!
Something you never mentioned how you use the trem are you dive-bombing and things of that nature?

These trems are great but are not that well suited for that type of use dive-bombing IMO. A doubling locking Floyd or Floyd like system is the best for that type of stuff.
Also something I forgot to ask is that trem sitting at zero to begin with?? If it’s a bit higher or lower that can do it also??

I would suggest taking it to your local guitar guy get him to do a setup and also tell him your concerns and go from there. And of course see what MM says first, chances are they will have you bring it to someone local.

Keep us in the loop!
John
 
6L6C said:
It can be a lot of things my first guess would be the knife blades on the trem, but it’s a new guitar so that’s out. My second would be the nut itself, I believe those guitars come with 10’s stock if you are using something heavier the nut my need to be widened a bit. Strings might be getting slightly bind-ed on the nut when you use the trem. Another thing to check is the neck itself, are the screws snug?

I have seen this a few times through the years guitar stays in tune except when you use the trem even a double locking system. Just checked the screws were the body and neck are put together tightened down, retune and done. Guitar now stays in tune!
Something you never mentioned how you use the trem are you dive-bombing and things of that nature?

These trems are great but are not that well suited for that type of use dive-bombing IMO. A doubling locking Floyd or Floyd like system is the best for that type of stuff.
Also something I forgot to ask is that trem sitting at zero to begin with?? If it’s a bit higher or lower that can do it also??

I would suggest taking it to your local guitar guy get him to do a setup and also tell him your concerns and go from there. And of course see what MM says first, chances are they will have you bring it to someone local.

Keep us in the loop!
John
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What I've read on the Ernie Ball FAQs is that these guitars are factory setup with .10-.46 but the guy I bought it from had it strung with 9's. I am guessing it wasn't setup properly. I am going to try switching it to .10s (my preferred gauge anyway) and then dick around with the spring tension, truss and saddles. I'll also get some graphite in the nut slots. I'll let you guys know how it comes out. If I end up f-ing it up I will take it to someone. Anyone have a go to guy in Boston, MA?
 
I set the action very low on mine with the trem post and I could feel the trem touching the body after only slightly depressing the trem arm. Not smooth. So I raised the trem post and lowered the saddle screws to fix. (I restrung mine with 9's)
 
Yes, it's not only one of the best but THE BEST bridge for electric guitars. I've owned four EBMM JPs and all of them kept their tune and I do crazy whammy tricks. So I'd say your setup is the problem. F.ex. look at how I got it: Suhr Modern vs PRS Custom 24 vs Ernie Ball Music Man JPXI - YouTube

1) Put graphite in the nut under the strings.
2) You've got locking tuners so don't roll the strings around the tuning gear. It may cause the strings to move and lead to being out of tune.
3) Make sure your bridge is set properly so when you're not using it it stays flat just like the body of the guitar.
 
UPdate. So I decided to put 10-46's on my JP6. I changed each string individually. I rubbed a pencil a bunch of times in each groove of the nut for lubrication. Then I stretched and stretched and stretched each string some more. Tuned it up a bunch of times. Played with the whammy etc. to loosen things up a bit. Then I tightened up the springs about 5 turns on each screw to bring the bridge completely level with the body. Tuned it again, had to adjust the springs a tiny bit (went too far). Then I checked the action and decided to raise it a bit by adjusting the truss rod. I probably went all in all about 5 turns and then ended up going back 2 or 3 once the neck settled a bit. I checked and adjusted intonation on all strings. Left it overnight and started playing today. I've been beating on this thing. Dive bombs, pull ups, straight up vibrato and then checked the tuning. It has not swayed even a cent. Really happy , and relieved, now. Thanks for all of the suggestions.
 
I'm glad it's working for you now. A few thoughts:

  1. Lube the nut with graphite or a grease made for nuts. Clean that 3-in-1 out of there. :)
  2. Use the bridge to raise or lower the action, not the truss rod (that's for changing the neck relief).
  3. Adjusting the truss rod by two or three turns makes a huge change in your neck relief. After that big a tweak, you owe it to yourself to get the guitar properly set up, and get the neck relief back in the ballpark.
 
Rex said:
I'm glad it's working for you now. A few thoughts:

  1. Lube the nut with graphite or a grease made for nuts. Clean that 3-in-1 out of there. :)
  2. Use the bridge to raise or lower the action, not the truss rod (that's for changing the neck relief).
  3. Adjusting the truss rod by two or three turns makes a huge change in your neck relief. After that big a tweak, you owe it to yourself to get the guitar properly set up, and get the neck relief back in the ballpark.
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Hey Rex. Thanks for taking the time to offer your suggestions. Please allow me to explain

1. I hear you, I'll pick some up. Just used what I had which was pencil graphite.
2. I have to disagree with you on this one. The FAQ for Ernie Ball and many other expert opinions state that the FIRST place you should go for action adjustments is the truss. Once the relief is set you can adjust individual strings to taste. In my case it did the trick perfectly. As evidenced by my update post previously. If I'm wrong here let me know.
3. It was really like a turn of as much as you can turn it with an allen wrench between the strings. I know enough not to crank the thing. I've made truss adjustments before. Staring down the length of the neck it is pretty much dead straight with just a tiny bit of relief which seems perfect
 
it was definitely the nut. all of my jp guitars, the nut slots had to be widened a bit for 10s, even though it was stock with 10s. weird.
 
Tonemeister said:
1. I hear you, I'll pick some up. Just used what I had which was pencil graphite.
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Pencil graphite is fine. It's the 3-in-1 oil that made me cringe a bit. :)


Tonemeister said:
2. The FAQ for Ernie Ball and many other expert opinions state that the FIRST place you should go for action adjustments is the truss. Once the relief is set you can adjust individual strings to taste. In my case it did the trick perfectly. As evidenced by my update post previously. If I'm wrong here let me know.
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The truss rod is one of the first places you go to begin a setup, but it's the wrong place to change the action. In other words, it's all part of setting up a guitar, but you adjust the truss rod first, then set the action using the bridge. You typically raise or lower the entire bridge to change the action. Individual string height adjustments are for making sure the curvature of the bridge matches the radius of the neck.


Tonemeister said:
3. It was really like a turn of as much as you can turn it with an allen wrench between the strings. I know enough not to crank the thing.
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Whew! :)


Tonemeister said:
I've made truss adjustments before. Staring down the length of the neck it is pretty much dead straight with just a tiny bit of relief which seems perfect
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If your frets are level, the difference between too little relief and too much relief is only two or three thousandths of an inch. You won't see that by sighting down the neck.
 
Chris@KatsuKuriMedia said:
it was definitely the nut. all of my jp guitars, the nut slots had to be widened a bit for 10s, even though it was stock with 10s. weird.
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bizarre. Yeah but mine had 9's and it was sticking. I switched to 10's and all is well. Maybe graphite made the biggest difference but I think all of the adjustments I made improved the feel.
 
Rex said:
If your frets are level, the difference between too little relief and too much relief is only two or three thousandths of an inch. You won't see that by sighting down the neck.
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now I'm nervous. :eek:. I think there's a chance some of the frets are high. Maybe bringing it on for a checkup isn't a bad idea after all
 
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