I need help with my nuts.....

1poorplayer said:
This is excellent. I happen to have a set of cleaners.
Is there any negative effects of a slot that is say ,.... TOO wide ? Not too deep , but too wide ?
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Long term tuning stability will be bad as the string tend to "walk" in a wide slot. It also sounds like shit, bleeding energy of we call "tone". You can also get buzzing from a too wide nut slot.
That said, a .009 string needs a graduated taper from .010 to about .020 to sound best and stay in tune perfect on a strat.
 
1poorplayer said:
...someone I know mentioned grabbing a string from both ends and running it thru the nut back and forth , like a saw , to clear or widen the slot a bit , instead of an actual file.
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I don't recommend that. There's no way to control the cutting angle and no way to file in a straight line. Both are important when you're filing a nut.
 
From what I've read here , and seen elsewhere , I think this is what I will do....
Mark the slots with a pencil , wrap some 400 grit sandpaper around the proper string , and gently run the paper thru the slot - at an angle toward the tuners , taking care not to remove the lead from the fretboard side of the nut - where the break angle begins. Then I'll lubricate the slots and give it a go.

I'd like to say thanks to everyone for their input , even those who recommended not to do anything , as it will act as a reminder to work slowly and methodically.
 
1poorplayer said:
From what I've read here , and seen elsewhere , I think this is what I will do....
Mark the slots with a pencil , wrap some 400 grit sandpaper around the proper string , and gently run the paper thru the slot - at an angle toward the tuners , taking care not to remove the lead from the fretboard side of the nut - where the break angle begins. Then I'll lubricate the slots and give it a go.

I'd like to say thanks to everyone for their input , even those who recommended not to do anything , as it will act as a reminder to work slowly and methodically.
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Good luck! Tell us how it went.
 
I've used old strings to "floss" the nut when having this problem. Flossing also helps polish the slot for smoother string movement.
 
ianx said:
I've used old strings to "floss" the nut when having this problem. Flossing also helps polish the slot for smoother string movement.
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It also tends to round the leading edge of the slot, which isn't ideal.
 
I picked up the 400 grit sandpaper today. The helpful tip - coloring the slot with lead , so I can avoid the break angle area , I thought was a good one. I'll want to see lead - still there after I sand a bit.
Sounds like a job for my magnifier glasses ! ( especially since I can't read the date on a coin without them anymore )
 
I have a full set of nut files and have been doing my own nut work for 15 or so years for myself and others... it is tricky to get it right. Getting the depth right can make a HUGE difference in playability. Even more than the bridge adjustment, IMHO. As a depth gauge, I string the guitar up and tune it. I press the string down at the 2nd fret and monitor the gap between the top of the first fret and the bottom of the string. If you tap on the string at the first fret it should make a "tink-tink-tink" sound. If the string is resting on the first fret then the slot is too deep- time to start over either with a new nut or fill it with baking soda & super glue. You have to file the slot just right and take your time. Avoid rocking the file. Too much rocking and the string will end up buzzing in the nut slot. That is SUPER annoying when tuning and you hear a sitar type sound.
 
+1 on not rocking the file. That's harder to accomplish than you might think.
 
Rex said:
Good luck! Tell us how it went.
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I used 400 grit over a piece of string , thru the nut at angle. The 1st and 2nd string slots were too small to fit the paper and the string both , so I just used the paper. Very gently. The nut's slot depth was correct already , so I was afraid of accidentally making it deeper.
Anyways , all went reasonably well. I decided to put the trem on the deck. Swapped the standard strat tuners for some Fender locking tuners
I then proceeded to lube the nut with some nut sauce I had kicking around from years ago. Stretched the strings , retuned , stretched , retuned.
No good. If I bend the arm down and back , the tuning still goes a little sharp. I ran the 400 thru the slots again , more graphite , same results.

Here's my thoughts :
I think it may be best to float the bridge again. Having the upward stretch above " in tune" should allow the trem to rebound from the negative tension from a "dive bomb" type trem movement.
I have to believe , the nut that comes from the factory , on an American Standard Strat cannot be smoothed and lubed enough to provide a surface that will negate the friction.
The occasional drop D tuning will not be fun with a floating trem though.
I really don't want to change the nut.
 
1poorplayer said:
I
I have to believe , the nut that comes from the factory , on an American Standard Strat cannot be smoothed and lubed enough to provide a surface that will negate the friction.
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If it's a plastic nut you are wasting your time. But bone or a synthetic bone (Am Standard should have that) you most certainly can. That said, going at it with sandpaper like you did I can all but guarantee it's hosed by now. If it came in my shop I'd likely insist on replacing it at this point. (can't say for sure without seeing it)
 
Musikron said:
If it's a plastic nut you are wasting your time. But bone or a synthetic bone (Am Standard should have that) you most certainly can. That said, going at it with sandpaper like you did I can all but guarantee it's hosed by now. If it came in my shop I'd likely insist on replacing it at this point. (can't say for sure without seeing it)
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( Right.) ;)
I can assure you , it's not "hosed".
 
1poorplayer said:
I used 400 grit over a piece of string , thru the nut at angle...

No good. If I bend the arm down and back , the tuning still goes a little sharp. I ran the 400 thru the slots again , more graphite , same results...
I have to believe , the nut that comes from the factory , on an American Standard Strat cannot be smoothed and lubed enough to provide a surface that will negate the friction.
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I think this shows that there's no substitute for a proper nut file. :)

That said, there's no way to know what the real issue is without inspecting it. There are a lot of things that contribute to return-to-pitch. But with everything done right, even a plastic nut will perform well for a while.
 
Actually fellas , I think I was right. I put the bridge floating ; like it was originally from Fender , and adjusted the spring tension on the back using the claw ; as shown in this video. BAM , stays perfectly in tune. I can VH bomb this strat trem now or do a little vibrato , and its holding great. I highly recommend this setup.
:)

 
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