How are you measuring dB to ensure the best preset sound/level?

This depends also a lot on size of room, speakers distance to listening position etc...i would loose my hearing if i was mixing at 85dB daily in my studio. In my control room 75dB is already...LOUD.
That's true.

I also learned to limit exposure to 15 minutes on and 20 minutes off, which helps save your hearing.

Turning the mix down to "elevator music" listening levels as a contrast also help retain a set of mix perspective.

If you hear a lot of reverb at elevator music listening level, you better be mixing surf music, post rock, or ambient stuff. If you hear one instrument dominate the mix at that level, it probably is out of balance with the rest of the mix.
 
That's true.

I also learned to limit exposure to 15 minutes on and 20 minutes off, which helps save your hearing.

Turning the mix down to "elevator music" listening levels as a contrast also help retain a set of mix perspective.

If you hear a lot of reverb at elevator music listening level, you better be mixing surf music, post rock, or ambient stuff. If you hear one instrument dominate the mix at that level, it probably is out of balance with the rest of the mix.
My Scarlett audio interface includes a handy 12dB "Dim" button that works great for this....
 
Try this PEQ block.

It basically adds/subtracts roughly the difference between the F/M curves to approximate the changes between them.

If you move the controller above 50%, it adds the bass and treble to sound better when listening quietly.
Below 50%, it removes the same bass and treble, to hopefully dial back the "boom and sizzle" and save your gig when using presets dialed in at lower volumes and you are getting lost in the mix.

It's not the be-all and end-all, but it helps.
Thanks for sharing, Joe. I haven't gigged in a long time, so my suggestion was really for other Fractal users that are. I do think it would benefit a
lot of users if Fractal could add some built-in functionality to address the F/M curve issue.
 
There are at least four different ways of wiring it and a bunch of different values; When I first started experimenting with it I used a bunch of different capacitor and resistor values and experimented with the ways to wire them to find the ones that reacted best with my humbuckers, and then did it again for my single-coils, so they're just enough to retain the sparkle without affecting the taper, resulting in the knob at 0 being totally off. I couldn't stand it if there was any signal bleeding through or the tone becoming too thin.

Now I use mostly PRS, which come with one already and it works just right so I don't need to fiddle with them. The last time I needed to was when I built my last Strat and haven't needed to open it up since so I have no idea what the values are.

The 50s wiring in a Gibson is a nice alternative, but, again, since my LP-type guitar is a PRS SC-245 it was a non-issue.
Totally agree with PRS guitars. I have 4, plus 2 Gibson Les Paul’s, and Fender Tele’s and Strats. The PRS guitars controls work the best.. I use them all the time. I want to get my Gibson’s to work the same.
 
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