Footswitch Topper Suggestions?

hello, I am looking for a switch cap seller for the FM9 that I will receive soon.
On the FM3 I used Tone Revival Engineering stomp tops, but currently I can't access the Tone Revival Engineering site
greeting
 
Lolo-G said:
hello, I am looking for a switch cap seller for the FM9 that I will receive soon.
On the FM3 I used Tone Revival Engineering stomp tops, but currently I can't access the Tone Revival Engineering site
greeting
Click to expand...
See my previous post...
 
Joe Bfstplk said:
Got the switches to go under these, and put together the under-board switches for the ExpressionIO under the FM9 board.

Just waiting on some MIDI cables from Sweetwater to arrive to finish this board:
0206221731.jpg


The two colorless buttons on the left operate as a pair to let either flip the state of the other, like the pair of lightswitches at opposite ends of stairs or a hallway. The left one is momentary, and the right one is latching. Anyone familiar with Ma Bell cable numbering will recognize the white (silver), red, black, yellow (gold), violet numbering scheme, which compliments the blue, orange, green, brown (no slate/gray, as there is no pedal 5) on the pedals board:
0206222003.jpg
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Hey @Joe Bfstplk came across this thread earlier and it got me thinking about doing something similar with a pair of dual switches ( stand in switches)...I am thinking about undermounting these along the bottom of my temple board which I don't think is terribly difficult. You can see them in the pic here. i'm not sure what kind of switch you have underneath your temple board there but on my switches the shafts seem to be around 12 mm. I was thinking get a drill bit to size and measure the right distance center to center for the buttons on each switch...use the washer /nut on top side to hold it all in place. Finish with a button topper/shroom. Did you drill into your temple board at all? My reason for wanting to do something like this is that i keep hitting my stand in switches when i'm going for the FC12 bottom row switches. Too close in height. Obviously I could just put shroom/toppers on the FC12 but I like the undermounting idea
 

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Chewie5150 said:
Hey @Joe Bfstplk came across this thread earlier and it got me thinking about doing something similar with a pair of dual switches ( stand in switches)...I am thinking about undermounting these along the bottom of my temple board which I don't think is terribly difficult. You can see them in the pic here. i'm not sure what kind of switch you have underneath your temple board there but on my switches the shafts seem to be around 13 mm. I was thinking get a drill bit to size and measure the right distance center to center for the buttons on each switch...use the washer /nut on top side to hold it all in place. Finish with a button topper/shroom. Did you drill into your temple board at all? My reason for wanting to do something like this is that i keep hitting my stand in switches when i'm going for the FC12 bottom row switches. Too close in height. Obviously I could just put shroom/toppers on the FC12 but I like the undermounting idea
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Exact same reason I went "underground" with mine. Keeps 'em close but out of the way.

No holes were drilled. The Temple board's cable pass/thru holes are perfectly spaced and lined up nicely with the FM9 pushed back a bit on the board.

The switches' threads are usually 1/2" or 12mm, depending on the source. I splurged and got the better-built ones used in some of the boo-teek pedals like Strymon.

Found the shiny washers at Ace Hardware.

Used Cliffs style 1/4" stereo jacks underneath, with 14ga. copper wire from some extra 14/2 romex I had hanging around.

Will post up some photos of the switch/jack assemblies in a bit....
 
Joe Bfstplk said:
Exact same reason I went "underground" with mine. Keeps 'em close but out of the way.

No holes were drilled. The Temple board's cable pass/thru holes are perfectly spaced and lined up nicely with the FM9 pushed back a bit on the board.

The switches' threads are usually 1/2" or 12mm, depending on the source. I splurged and got the better-built ones used in some of the boo-teek pedals like Strymon.

Found the shiny washers at Ace Hardware.

Used Cliffs style 1/4" stereo jacks underneath, with 14ga. copper wire from some extra 14/2 romex I had hanging around.

Will post up some photos of the switch/jack assemblies in a bit....
Click to expand...
I can see in your application why no drilling was necessary. for my switches I needed to drill. not a big deal. I had a 1/2" drill bit that did the job. Ran into a small snag though as when i drilled through the aluminum it created a raised edge on the underside. So fitting the dual switch underneath does not sit flush with board surface and not leaving enough clearance for the switch threads to be fastened through. Its a little hard to see in the one pic there. but I'll need to get a file or something tmw and try remove that little bit of material.
 

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Chewie5150 said:
I can see in your application why no drilling was necessary. for my switches I needed to drill. not a big deal. I had a 1/2" drill bit that did the job. Ran into a small snag though as when i drilled through the aluminum it created a raised edge on the underside. So fitting the dual switch underneath does not sit flush with board surface and not leaving enough clearance for the switch threads to be fastened through. Its a little hard to see in the one pic there. but I'll need to get a file or something tmw and try remove that little bit of material.
Click to expand...


You need one of these:

20230113_222744.jpg

It's a countersink, 5/8", I think, and works great for deburring drilled holes...
 
i had a file kicking around and thankfully aluminum is fairly soft so was able to remove what i needed. It does fit but the switches themselves are lower profile and factoring in thickness of temple board material i didnt have room to put a washer in there. I know blashemy! but secured down tight with nut...there is a washer on the underside (inside) of switch box. Funny some nights you are too bored watching tv and spur of the moment decide to mod your board. Yeah a counter sink bit would have been easier if i had one on hand.
 

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Chewie5150 said:
i had a file kicking around and thankfully aluminum is fairly soft so was able to remove what i needed. It does fit but the switches themselves are lower profile and factoring in thickness of temple board material i didnt have room to put a washer in there. I know blashemy! but secured down tight with nut...
Click to expand...

It works. It's not aerospace work we're doing here. ;)

Chewie5150 said:
there is a washer on the underside (inside) of switch box. Funny some nights you are too bored watching tv and spur of the moment decide to mod your board. Yeah a counter sink bit would have been easier if i had one on hand.
Click to expand...

Yeah, after decades of having to 'make do' with the wrong tools, once you get your hands on the right tools (or even less wrong tools), it's a huge boost in your ability to do things....

BTW, were you the one that was looking at Telecasters recently? VZ Custom Guitars is running a sale, and that gorgeous "Sunset Burst" is only $975 right now....
 
@Joe Bfstplk Oh my that sunburst Tele is beautiful. yeah that was me looking at Teles. True, not Aerospace by any stretch! It would be ideal I suppose to have a taller switch. If i was really ambitious i suppose i could source out taller ones and replace the shallow ones in those little dual switch boxes...I have no idea what kind of switches though as I've never done that before. The switches just act as standby switches and long hold functions.

oh man i had the biggest derp slap-my-forehead moment here. i just realized all i need to do is adjust the nut on the underside of that switch. Opened up the box and saw it. lots of room to move the shaft up higher to fit a washer on...good lord.
 

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Chewie5150 said:
@Joe Bfstplk Oh my that sunburst Tele is beautiful. yeah that was me looking at Teles.
Click to expand...

I can vouch for the attention to detail, and playability/sound being top notch on Bud Veazey's stuff. He retired, and builds guitars because he enjoys it. When he puts on the occasional sale, you can't beat the value. I love mine!

Chewie5150 said:
True, not Aerospace by any stretch! It would be ideal I suppose to have a taller switch. If i was really ambitious i suppose i could source out taller ones and replace the shallow ones in those little dual switch boxes...I have no idea what kind of switches though as I've never done that before. The switches just act as standby switches and long hold functions.
oh man i had the biggest derp slap-my-forehead moment here. i just realized all i need to do is adjust the nut on the underside of that switch. Opened up the box and saw it. lots of room to move the shaft up higher to fit a washer on...good lord.
Click to expand...
Well, there you go! The chrome washers were a little expensive, but not "break the bank" expensive, and they look nice, IMHO....
 
Doubling up on this thread in case its not easily seen on the one I created today on the FC-12 section. I came across this company ninjafox that make some great looking magnetic translucent toppers for Helix products. I need to confirm the size of switches used on Fractal products as I suspect they will be different
 

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This post was super helpful, thanks, all! Just ordered some transparent Mooer Candy for my FC-6 and incoming FM9.
 
I do not, however, the Candy toppers look like they make a bigger glow area for each switch, which may be nice. I'm not committed yet.
 
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