Mooer Candy (cylindrical) or Mooer Shroom (convex) toppers will fit the FM(3/9). They do not fit LoveMySwitches external stand-in switches...Barefoot Big Bore metal toppers are required for these...I use the Mooer ones for my MFC but I don't know if they would fit on Fm3/9.
See my previous post...hello, I am looking for a switch cap seller for the FM9 that I will receive soon.
On the FM3 I used Tone Revival Engineering stomp tops, but currently I can't access the Tone Revival Engineering site
greeting
Hey @Joe Bfstplk came across this thread earlier and it got me thinking about doing something similar with a pair of dual switches ( stand in switches)...I am thinking about undermounting these along the bottom of my temple board which I don't think is terribly difficult. You can see them in the pic here. i'm not sure what kind of switch you have underneath your temple board there but on my switches the shafts seem to be around 12 mm. I was thinking get a drill bit to size and measure the right distance center to center for the buttons on each switch...use the washer /nut on top side to hold it all in place. Finish with a button topper/shroom. Did you drill into your temple board at all? My reason for wanting to do something like this is that i keep hitting my stand in switches when i'm going for the FC12 bottom row switches. Too close in height. Obviously I could just put shroom/toppers on the FC12 but I like the undermounting ideaGot the switches to go under these, and put together the under-board switches for the ExpressionIO under the FM9 board.
Just waiting on some MIDI cables from Sweetwater to arrive to finish this board:
The two colorless buttons on the left operate as a pair to let either flip the state of the other, like the pair of lightswitches at opposite ends of stairs or a hallway. The left one is momentary, and the right one is latching. Anyone familiar with Ma Bell cable numbering will recognize the white (silver), red, black, yellow (gold), violet numbering scheme, which compliments the blue, orange, green, brown (no slate/gray, as there is no pedal 5) on the pedals board:
Exact same reason I went "underground" with mine. Keeps 'em close but out of the way.Hey @Joe Bfstplk came across this thread earlier and it got me thinking about doing something similar with a pair of dual switches ( stand in switches)...I am thinking about undermounting these along the bottom of my temple board which I don't think is terribly difficult. You can see them in the pic here. i'm not sure what kind of switch you have underneath your temple board there but on my switches the shafts seem to be around 13 mm. I was thinking get a drill bit to size and measure the right distance center to center for the buttons on each switch...use the washer /nut on top side to hold it all in place. Finish with a button topper/shroom. Did you drill into your temple board at all? My reason for wanting to do something like this is that i keep hitting my stand in switches when i'm going for the FC12 bottom row switches. Too close in height. Obviously I could just put shroom/toppers on the FC12 but I like the undermounting idea
I can see in your application why no drilling was necessary. for my switches I needed to drill. not a big deal. I had a 1/2" drill bit that did the job. Ran into a small snag though as when i drilled through the aluminum it created a raised edge on the underside. So fitting the dual switch underneath does not sit flush with board surface and not leaving enough clearance for the switch threads to be fastened through. Its a little hard to see in the one pic there. but I'll need to get a file or something tmw and try remove that little bit of material.Exact same reason I went "underground" with mine. Keeps 'em close but out of the way.
No holes were drilled. The Temple board's cable pass/thru holes are perfectly spaced and lined up nicely with the FM9 pushed back a bit on the board.
The switches' threads are usually 1/2" or 12mm, depending on the source. I splurged and got the better-built ones used in some of the boo-teek pedals like Strymon.
Found the shiny washers at Ace Hardware.
Used Cliffs style 1/4" stereo jacks underneath, with 14ga. copper wire from some extra 14/2 romex I had hanging around.
Will post up some photos of the switch/jack assemblies in a bit....
I can see in your application why no drilling was necessary. for my switches I needed to drill. not a big deal. I had a 1/2" drill bit that did the job. Ran into a small snag though as when i drilled through the aluminum it created a raised edge on the underside. So fitting the dual switch underneath does not sit flush with board surface and not leaving enough clearance for the switch threads to be fastened through. Its a little hard to see in the one pic there. but I'll need to get a file or something tmw and try remove that little bit of material.
i had a file kicking around and thankfully aluminum is fairly soft so was able to remove what i needed. It does fit but the switches themselves are lower profile and factoring in thickness of temple board material i didnt have room to put a washer in there. I know blashemy! but secured down tight with nut...
there is a washer on the underside (inside) of switch box. Funny some nights you are too bored watching tv and spur of the moment decide to mod your board. Yeah a counter sink bit would have been easier if i had one on hand.
@Joe Bfstplk Oh my that sunburst Tele is beautiful. yeah that was me looking at Teles.
Well, there you go! The chrome washers were a little expensive, but not "break the bank" expensive, and they look nice, IMHO....True, not Aerospace by any stretch! It would be ideal I suppose to have a taller switch. If i was really ambitious i suppose i could source out taller ones and replace the shallow ones in those little dual switch boxes...I have no idea what kind of switches though as I've never done that before. The switches just act as standby switches and long hold functions.
oh man i had the biggest derp slap-my-forehead moment here. i just realized all i need to do is adjust the nut on the underside of that switch. Opened up the box and saw it. lots of room to move the shaft up higher to fit a washer on...good lord.