FM3 Firmware Version 3.02 Beta 1

A few observations...

Played a little more and the crackling seem to happening when playing as well.
The editor doesn't have an input clipping but the meter on the FM3 input1 does get on the red.
I play a Ibanez SA 160 on the humbucker position.
It seems to me that the input is very hot.
Crackling (which I'm more than sure now it's clipping) disappears if either the input block output level is lowered a few db or the amp block input trim is brought down to maybe 8-9 (0.15-0.2).
Moved everything back to default (output level of the input block and the input trim to the amp) and pressed the setup button.
Changed the input config input1 Pad from 0 to 18db and noticed the red led was not turning on any longer (no clipping). Tried the input 2 - same
For a well defined tone I still had to bring the input trim and input drive down in the amp (Angle Severe 2). Usually I keep the master volume to around 1:00 - 1:30 for nice power amp distortion.

I'm pretty sure with 3.1 I never seen the red led blinking so my guess is that for my configuration somehow the inputs got hotter.

Not sure what to learn from this. Oh - I did dial the bias excursion to 100 wherever I've seen it (pre and power) but the input clipping is happening nonetheless (tamed by the 18db pad now).
 
Isn’t it OK if you tickle the red on the FM3 input meter ? I thought that was ideal ? Should it never blink RED ?
 
Vio said:
I always thought that tickling the YELLOW is ok. red = clipping - no headroom - bad.
Click to expand...
It’s recommended that you go into the red when picking hard, but you don’t have to. Some of my guitars do and some don’t. Take your guitar that has the hottest pickups, and set it so it goes red when are strumming really hard and leave it there.
 
I’m getting a lot more red on the input indicator as well. I noticed it a few days ago but seeing this thread reminded me about it.
 
If the red Input LED lits too much, check the Input Pad setting in Setup > I/O and adjust if necessary.
 
yek said:
If the red Input LED lits too much, check the Input Pad setting in Setup > I/O and adjust if necessary.
Click to expand...

OK, thanks, yek. I'm going to check on that. I haven't had to enter that menu previously so I'm wondering if this is something with 3.02 Beta 1 or just something unexpected on my end. I have one guitar with hot(ish) pickups (a PRS SC-250 w/stock pickups) but the rest are vintage or vintage hot output. 6K to 9-10K. Nothing crazy.
 
PSA I spent close to 30 minutes yesterday trying to figure out why my Output 2 was so low in volume! It pays to read these posts when you are working with a Beta version! I know, ...........soon!
 
Neftalí said:
Hi.
I have a problem with this firmware. It is not very important but i post it. I'm playing with plexi 100 preset and i change the scene. Before, whrn i switch off the fm3 and switch on, the scence selected was the same than stay, but now when turn on the fm3 always are in the scene 1.
Anybody with the same issue?
Thanks
Click to expand...
There's a global setting "default scene". On my device it defaults to the scene, I have last selected and saved my preset with. You can also change it to a fixed scene. Just try to go to your preset, change to a scene you want and save the preset. Turn off and on again and see what happens.
 
Just a question - is the Out2 issue linked specifically to those using “Copy 1 to 2” instead of giving Out2 its own set of outputs?

Im using Out2 to cablessly feed a Poweramp/Cab and using Out1 via an IR/Cab to FOH.

I’d love to try the Beta and I know the whole rollback process is simple pimple but would like to know before delving in, loving a feature and then having to roll back!!
 
I have lowered the input pad to -18 dB this week too. Before it was "tickling the red", but the FM3 sounds cleaner and better on -18dB and I still see the red sometimes.
My pickups are not extremely hot (Duncan Custom TB-5 is the hottest), but I got no tone pot.
 
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