Fender FR-12 preamp mod : The Hissterectomy

Primarily, if you are connecting the XLR output from the FR10 to a PA’s mixing console, make sure the cable you are using to connect it is not plugged into an input that has engaged phantom power on the console’s input channel.
Yup. That's all it means. Actually fairly straightforward, once it's explained that way.
 
What are you plugging into the FR?

It is just receiving from my Axe. I don't run it out into anything. Seems like that means I'm on the clear (which was what I had always assumed but these recent posts were scaring me).

Primarily, if you are connecting the XLR output from the FR10 to a PA’s mixing console, make sure the cable you are using to connect it is not plugged into an input that has engaged phantom power on the console’s input channel.

Super helpful -- thank you!
 
It is just receiving from my Axe. I don't run it out into anything. Seems like that means I'm on the clear (which was what I had always assumed but these recent posts were scaring me).



Super helpful -- thank you!
Phantom power is used to send power from a mix board or interface to a microphone. Some mics require external power to work properly. Rather than have a separate power cable, these mics can have the power routed via the cable itself.

That's all fantastic, but you can see how sending power to a device which is only expecting an audio signal could be problematic.
 
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Proofs of two V3 versions are in production. I am looking forward to hearing them both and picking a winner. One is full SMT, one is old school full size parts with just SMT ICs.
So are you expecting them to sound different? I don't know about these things, so I am learning.
 
I think he’s asking whether you expect the two V3 versions to sound different.
I hope they sound identical. They are the exact same circuit.

If they sound very close, the one that will keep the target price low wins.

If they sound different, the best sounding one wins, even if it costs more.

I don't know how much myth and mystery live in the big full size components (especially nice film caps) This will be a great test. It may be one of those things old guitarists like me just believe in ... or it may be a drastic improvement over SMT. I am testing my long held belief that the really nice PTH size passives sound better than some SMT parts.
 
Are all the V2’s gone?
No a few dozen will be available soon for waitlisted folks even before the V3 is finalized. I might even do a nice discount to burn a large hole in the waitlist.

..But there are way more folks on the waitlist than the remaining V2s. Because yall are awesome!

I will have the V3s completely assembled by an outside contractor. So there will be no waitlist. Just dropping large quantities all at the same time and re-ordering.
 
I hope they sound identical. They are the exact same circuit.

If they sound very close, the one that will keep the target price low wins.

If they sound different, the best sounding one wins, even if it costs more.

I don't know how much myth and mystery live in the big full size components (especially nice film caps) This will be a great test. It may be one of those things old guitarists like me just believe in ... or it may be a drastic improvement over SMT. I am testing my long held belief that the really nice PTH size passives sound better than some SMT parts.
Cool, this is the kind of info I was interested in. As more electronic gear moves to SMT, I always wondered if the sound suffered, or even if quality and longevity was affected. I certainly am not attached to any one method, except it has to sound good. I think that can probably be achieved either way.
 
All I can say is that, after some long waiting, I've finally have got my V2 mod to be delivered to me in Brazil!!! Yesssss!!!

On the other hand, I'm having a very tough time dis-assembling my FR-12. I've already removed all the screws, knobs, nuts and washers, including those from the input board. But I jut can't open it, the chassis seems stuck! Any tips on what kind of movements I have to do in order to oppen it safely? I'm afraid to pull it off too hard and end up damaging something important inside.
 
If you have something like a plastic or teflon spudger you can pry without maring up the tolex. Once the top 2 chrome screws are loose.. push / pry the chassis down and it should free it.
 
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