I've found using small flush end cutters, resisting the urge to use the cutters as leverage to pry the fret out and slowly squeezing the cutters prevents most of the tearout. I also work back and forth across the fret, lifting it out over a couple of passes.
Masking tape isn't going to prevent tearout when pulling the old frets. It will definitely help keep the pieces so they can be glued in though.
There are so many hackers out there, I did not trust anyone who was close-by and reasonable. The pros with a good name are too expensive and too long to wait. I bought and made a few tools and re-fretted my Gibson SG Custom (ebony board). Anyone with some manual dexterity and good vision can do it. I made my own sanding beam using a cheap level. I first got a good Stewmac straight edge and took it to the home improvement store. Most levels are truly flat. I did the same when looking for files. The best work is the use of under string levelers. My action can be as low as 0.020" at the 12th fret using these. Definitely practice on a cheap yard sale neck. You learn a lot without messing up your nice guitar.
True. Many on YouTube, also.
Manual dexterity and good vision. And patience. And a thoughtful approach. And good measuring tools.
Most levels are not truly flat. They don’t have to be, because they’re being held against wooden construction members that aren’t truly flat, either. You can’t judge flatness without a truly flat reference and a set of feeler gauges that go down to .001”.
Sorry. Not following you here.
+1.
To find a flat level, you must take a good straight edge with you. Yes, manual dexterity patience, good judgement, all that brain stuff. The under string leveler - look up the Katana system. The Katana is a bit expensive and I don't like it having its own truss rod - I prefer dead straight leveling. But they make a smaller version that is a straight beam that will also slip under the strings, which are tuned to pitch. It does about half the fret board. Someone else makes a full length one. I forgot the mfr. I have both and they really work. You can do some work and immediately check it for results. Now this is for the guy who wants ultra low action. If you're happy with 1/16th at the 12th fret, any method will do. I just spot leveled my new Chinese PRS. A PRS typically is perfect from the factory. Three of mine are, the Chinese one needed some work. It now has about 0.030" action.
admittedly this used to perplex me and I always used a radius block to level... then came the day I had to level a compound radius fretboard and the whole idea suddenly made a lot more sense! admittedly you have to be careful and learn to do it evenly... using 'the force' hehe. no really.
sorry, I unknowingly copied you.
And feeler gauges. You can't eyeball the degree of flatness you want in a leveling beam.
I'm not familiar with that system. The jury's out until such time as I've actually used one.
TBH, bridge and nut height are irrelevant to fret leveling. In fact, there's no way to know what the correct bridge or nut height will be until you're done removing metal.
Definitely take care not to slam into the nut. Often a few thicknesses of masking type are all you need.
It's true that cheap tools can be a regrettable purchase. It's also true that sometimes StewMac will take a generally-available tool, call it a luther's tool, and put a steep upcharge on it.
A good crowning file is nice, but it's instructive to have crowned a few frets by hand the traditional way, using just a triangular file.
Yes, but you'll want a small file with safe sides to do the more fiddly work (fret corners, edges of the bevels, etc.).
You're not going to find an accurate straight edge for $40. A claimed accuracy of 0.0005" per inch works out to almost 0.01" over the 18-inch length required to measure a fingerboard. When you have a target relief of under .005", you can see that this level of accuracy won't get you there.
45° is too much bevel. You're giving up valuable fret length.
They're damned handy, and you'll love the results, but you can get by without one.
100% correct. When someone tells you that fret jobs are a breeze, they're forgetting the mistakes they made when they were learning...or they've never recognized those mistakes.
Proceed with care. But know that you can learn how to do this.
that's how they did it back before there were crowning files... but I'm gonna have to pass on that experience. way too much work.
admittedly, when I do fret jobs... it's on a guitar I built so it's a bit different as one can always sand out a scratch easily. that said, I've refretted a few finished guitars using diamond files, tape and an aluminum protector to keep from touching the fretboard/binding. has worked fine for me but admittedly you have to be careful and it probably takes more time that way. I could easily run a groove through a board and glue in a file... just haven't bothered.
there is that much variance in the sandpaper one might use esp the lower grits. further variance introduced when you polish the frets. so my point is... I use levels so that I can run thru lower grits quickly - not sure if that came across in my post. it's really only the last passes that have to be super accurate.
I honestly don't even know what angle I do... because I do it by hand. probably closer to 67.5, I don't know. my only point was you don't need a special tool to do that, and you might be better off w/o one. at least that has been my experience.
like anything else... you can do almost anything with almost any tools. My first guitar builds I did almost entirely with a router and jig saw. I still use a router for 90% of what I do. Have a planer - never use it. don't even own a table saw nor a jointer.
fret jobs are a breeze... it's your first few fret jobs that aren't. that said, I wouldn't do one for $300. Once you've done a few your whole perspective on what folks charge for them changes.100% correct. When someone tells you that fret jobs are a breeze, they're forgetting the mistakes they made when they were learning...or they've never recognized those mistakes.
true, but fretwire is like $20 and if you mess up... just another opportunity to learn something... as long as you aren't working on a vintage strat.Remember: You can't replace metal that you've already filed off.
I have found straight edges for $40.00 that were less than .005 over 4 feet! You just have to test a bunch of them against something that is known to be straight.You're not going to find an accurate straight edge for $40. A claimed accuracy of 0.0005" per inch works out to almost 0.01" over the 18-inch length required to measure a fingerboard. When you have a target relief of under .005", you can see that this level of accuracy won't get you there.
100% correct. When someone tells you that fret jobs are a breeze, they're forgetting the mistakes they made when they were learning...or they've never recognized those mistakes.