Best Power Amp for Modelers

Except they just increased the price to $1,999.
On what? I think you’re looking at the wrong model. If you’re correct then the apocalypse is finally here, my friends… tone and feel are the least of our worries if that’s true.

Cuz I just bought my ps100 for ~$1000 retail
 
I apologize for reposting a post I originally posted in the AXE FXIII section. :oops:

If any of you have experience with this power amplifier, please let me know.

I'm planning to pair this power amplifier with the AXE-FXIII. I'm planning on using a DIY, semi-open-backed 12-inch cabinet and installing Celestion's FX-something 250 speakers (the brighter of the two).

I'm not in a position to use it at high volume every day, and I'm not in a position to carry it around and perform every Saturday...

I just have this thing I've always wanted, but I can't get it, so I'm left with a lingering regret.

Is it a good idea to spend about $400 on this old tube gear? I'm a little worried that it'll become a burden after I buy it, with the cost of replacing the 6CA7 tubes, minor issues, and repairs. I'm wondering if I'm beating a dead horse.🤔

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Hello,

I've seen an opportunity to get an ADA T100s stereo tube power amplifier for around $400 in my country.

I don't necessarily need one, but I remember desperately looking for one a long time ago, so I'm keeping an eye on it!
(So, in the past, I bought a mesa50/50 power amplifier instead of the ADA. I wasn't very satisfied with it.)

I was wondering if anyone has ever driven an AXE FXIII with this ADA T100s power amplifier, and if so, how well it would work.

However, I'm concerned : My country uses 220V, and the seller states that this ADA power amplifier is 220V.
I haven't asked the seller yet, but I'm concerned that this might be a "remodeled" version of the original 120V model.

Does anyone know if converting an ADA product like the T100s or MP1 (I used to own one) to 220V simply require a small internal wiring change, or if it requires a major replacement, such as a new transformer?

Because I don't want to buy a T100s with a non-original transformer or something...
(I heard that products modified like that don't produce the original sound)🤔

(*I don't really care about "AITR" but since it's the analog tube gear used by My Guitar Hero(NB), a guy I admire, I thought it would be a good idea to get one at a bargain price before it becomes more harder to find.)

thanks
Have a nice day, everyone. :D

adaT100s.jpg
 
Slew rate 8 ms. Anyone know if this number is a good thing or not for fast guitar work?
That is a very weird way to measure slew rate, which is a speed. It’s measured in volts per microsecond, where good is maybe low tens, great is over 100, if I remember correctly.

If this amp really takes 8 milliseconds to reach some voltage, it’s like a thousand times slower than needed.
 
On what? I think you’re looking at the wrong model. If you’re correct then the apocalypse is finally here, my friends… tone and feel are the least of our worries if that’s true.

Cuz I just bought my ps100 for ~$1000 retailI
i am sure you are correct. I was referring to the two/ninety/two power amp.
 
For home only use, I was using 2 EHX 44 Magnums to power 2 Mesa 112 cabs but I ditched them as they were a bit noisy. Instead of replacing them with something else I diy'd a switch for $40 to be able to repoint my Matrix GT1000FX from my FRCABs to the Mesa Cabs without inconvenient recabling. Even tho I only operate that switch when the Matrix is powered off to ensure there's not a no-load situation on the amp for a split second, I've never been 100% comfortable with having that switch in there even tho it saves me from having to purchase another stereo power amp for the 2 Mesa Cabs which I really like having ready to play thru from time to time. Was thinking of getting 2 of these H+K Stompmans and using them in their power amp only mode which bypasses the onboard analogue pre and power amp sim circuits. Anyone have any thoughts on those? Am I better off just sticking with my DIY switch since I never have both the FRCABs and MesaCabs active at the same time.
 
That is a very weird way to measure slew rate, which is a speed. It’s measured in volts per microsecond, where good is maybe low tens, great is over 100, if I remember correctly.

If this amp really takes 8 milliseconds to reach some voltage, it’s like a thousand times slower than needed.
I searched online if this information is public about other poweramps (sd powerstage, pedal baby etc.) with no luck. If this info is off any importance.
 
That is a very weird way to measure slew rate, which is a speed. It’s measured in volts per microsecond, where good is maybe low tens, great is over 100, if I remember correctly.

If this amp really takes 8 milliseconds to reach some voltage, it’s like a thousand times slower than needed.
I think someone's gotta be miswriting microseconds as ms. Still weird, but at least on the right order of magnitude.
 
I think someone's gotta be miswriting microseconds as ms. Still weird, but at least on the right order of magnitude.
That's my guess too. I would like to know if officially fractal believes in class D in general for better representation of their modelers.
 
That's my guess too. I would like to know if officially fractal believes in class D in general for better representation of their modelers.
Cliff said that class D options are getting better and that they’ll be looking into some of them.

But I wouldn’t single out class D is being good or bad specifically, it’s not like if an amp is class AB it’s good by default. Issues with class D IMO are more like you look at the watts and expect some insane power while in reality the amp will not deliver the energy to push the speaker to render uncompressed peaks well, most consumer amps don’t even need to do that as they deal with mastered music.
 
That's my guess too. I would like to know if officially fractal believes in class D in general for better representation of their modelers.
This is a recent comment by Cliff... But I don't think that really applies to a harley benton. That's cheap stuff, good for the price but still cheap stuff.
Very cool. We evaluated the ICE modules and weren't super impressed. The damping factor at high frequencies is poor. The Hypex stuff measured much better but reliability was suspect at the time.

Class-D has gotten much better recently so we'll probably look into it again at some point.

PS: as I also wrote earlier, newer Icepower revisions should be much better in that regard.
I have an older one and I think it doesn't matter that much with a guitar cab anyway
 
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I think it doesn't matter that much with a guitar cab anyway
Lower damping factor will lead to higher resonance and thus less control from the modeler, so the impedance curve setting will not work as it should, I reckon. By how much I have zero clue though.
 
Do they? They keep their value about as well as most other mass produced music gear imo.

Price out a brand new mesa boogie dual rec (or marshall if you're EU). Then look at all the used listings. Should see a pretty big difference in number. Same with a brand new fender american pro ii vs a used one. My axefx is probably worth about as much as I paid 5 years ago.

Used gear generally keeps its value, whether it's a tube amp or a boss DS-1 is less of a factor. Sometimes an influence makes the price skyrocket but I don't put money into the idea haha.

One day I'll try a power amp again, but no rush here.
Tube amps keep their value once you get past the new amp tax. MW Dual Rectifiers were $2500-$2800 new for most of the 2010s, and for the past 4-5 years you can find them for $1500-$1900. A few years from now they'll probably be at the same price or maybe a little higher as they're discontinued now.
 
Tube amps keep their value once you get past the new amp tax. MW Dual Rectifiers were $2500-$2800 new for most of the 2010s, and for the past 4-5 years you can find them for $1500-$1900. A few years from now they'll probably be at the same price or maybe a little higher as they're discontinued now.
My modeller is still worth what I paid for it 5 years ago. My buddy’s ultra is still worth what he paid for it 10 years ago. Thats the used gear market in general.

And when adjusted for inflation we all probably lose money :/
 
I never had a modeller amp and really like the AM4. I tried to use it with PS2 (Fx return), Orange Pedal Baby and found that I like the Pedal baby more than PS2.. PS2 tone is more compressed, less mids?
So now I am thinking of comparing Pedal Baby with SD PS-170 (or PS-200). Wondering if someone can comment on these two amps used with a modeller..
 
I never had a modeller amp and really like the AM4. I tried to use it with PS2 (Fx return), Orange Pedal Baby and found that I like the Pedal baby more than PS2.. PS2 tone is more compressed, less mids?
So now I am thinking of comparing Pedal Baby with SD PS-170 (or PS-200). Wondering if someone can comment on these two amps used with a modeller..
Between the Pedal Baby and like, any SD PS… pick the one with the look and/or the power level you like. They’re both about on par with each other imo.

I got the little extra I always felt I was missing out on with my Fryette PS, but I’ll be first to admit it’s something I feel most people don’t care about. If you do though, it’s everything. If you’re talking about pushing real speakers, is your ideal solid state, tube, or don’t care?
 
Between the Pedal Baby and like, any SD PS… pick the one with the look and/or the power level you like. They’re both about on par with each other imo.

I got the little extra I always felt I was missing out on with my Fryette PS, but I’ll be first to admit it’s something I feel most people don’t care about. If you do though, it’s everything. If you’re talking about pushing real speakers, is your ideal solid state, tube, or don’t care?
IDK, Fryette has too much highs.. If I lower the presence it gets a bit muddy for my taste. My ideal is Marshall plexi amp and I have a couple but for quick practice I like to use a Spark or AM4 now. So, Pedal baby is not bad, now I heard Blueguitar AMP1 is a good choice as well so I might try that one instead of SD PS...
 
I'm thinking pulling the plug for a harley benton gpa-400 rack unit. Stereo operation is a must for single guitar work. Reading from the manual :
Slew rate 8 ms. Anyone know if this number is a good thing or not for fast guitar work?
https://www.thomann.de/gr/harley_benton_gpa_400.htm
Get one, works a treat, there is a lot of snobbish behaviours about anything that’s not a big name but seriously it’s a great it of kit
 
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