Axe-Fx III Firmware 27.03 Release

simeon said:
and the three knob tube drive was one of my favourites. i can't seem to get a good sound out of it now
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FYI: In the FM9 thread this was posted about the three knob tube drive, this might also apply to the FX III:
FractalAudio said:
Yes, there is a mistake in that model. It has already been fixed for the next release.
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But i could be wrong, because the release of the FX III firmware was one day after that comment.
 
Just left some feedback in the presets thread but the 27.03 OS needs it's own!! I waited through the beta this time because fuzzes aren't my thing....until now!!! :p Finding inspiration and use for these is a treasure hunt, I've lost hours and hours playing with the new fuzz choices, so much joy and satisfaction!!

It's a blessing indeed when your musical gear can continue to inspire your creativity and excitement to play month after month, update after update, like that day you brought home your for dream amp. The Fractal platform embodies completely the idea of "the gear that keeps on giving"! Thanks Cliff, crew, and all the beta testers for this wonderful Christmas release version! Bless us all and may we all have a wonderful 2025!!
 
FlavAnderson said:
Loving the new Axe Edit in Blue for the Parameters in use! Would definitely add Blue to the "ON" position of the Boost, Cut, Fat, Bright, as well to match the other parameters!
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I agree it's a nice change. But picker screen would be great if it were 'modal' with a 'dark mode' option. ;)
 
squealie said:
Did something change with the Rat Distortion?
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Apparently, something changed in all the drive models:
FractalAudio said:
https://www.fractalaudio.com/downloads/firmware-presets/axe-fx-3/27p0/axefxiii_dsp_rel_27p03.zip

Axe-Fx III Firmware Release Notes​


27.03

Improved Drive block.

Improved PI Fuzz model. The new model also allows changing the type and quantity of diodes used in the transistor feedback paths, adds a “Wicker” switch which removes the feedback capacitors and adds a “Tone” switch which allows bypassing the tone circuitry.

Added “PI Fuzz – Triangle” model. This is based on a 1971 “Triangle” Big Muff PI. Thie model also includes the Tone Wicker mods.

Added “PI Fuzz – Ram’s Head” model. This is based on mid-70’s “Ram’s Head” Big Muff PI. The model also includes the Tone Wicker mods.

Added “PI Fuzz – Russian” model. This is based on a Sovtek produced “Civil War” Big Muff PI. The model also includes the Tone Wicker mods.

Added “Colortone Booster” model based on a Colorsound Power Booster (with added Master control).

Added “Colortone OD” model based on a Colorsound Overdriver (with added Master control).

Added “MOSFET Distortion” model based on an Ibanez MT10 Mostortion.

Added “Super Fuzz” model based on a Univox Superfuzz. The model also features a tone control which allows varying the frequency of the notch. Use the Bias control to simulate the “Octave” control found on some clones.

Updated DS1 Distortion model to Second Edition specs.

Improved Tube Drive 4-Knob model. If you are using this model in a preset a soft reset of the block is recommended to load the new default values.

Reworked Blackglass 7K model.

Added 1N5819 Schottky and Yellow LED diode models.

Fixed resistor mistakenly attached across drive pot on Plexi 2204 model.

Fixed Phaser block LFO Reset not working properly for some types.

Fixed wrong Miller capacitance value in Brit 800 models (probably not audible).

Various other fixes and improvements.
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I haven't done a lot of testing, but the Rat seems to act in a way different manner. It is rat-like...but it seems fuzz-ier. Reminds me of a bit-crusher. I'll live, but it's not doing the thing that I was using it for. Just curious if anyone else noticed.
 
squealie said:
I haven't done a lot of testing, but the Rat seems to act in a way different manner. It is rat-like...but it seems fuzz-ier. Reminds me of a bit-crusher. I'll live, but it's not doing the thing that I was using it for. Just curious if anyone else noticed.
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Try using the MCMLXXXI Drive model instead. That's a more refined RAT clone (1981 DRV) that doesn't have the fuzzy edges of an actual RAT circuit.
 
FractalAudio said:
Added “Colortone OD” model based on a Colorsound Overdriver (with added Master control).

Added “MOSFET Distortion” model based on an Ibanez MT10 Mostortion.
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Curious: why Is the "Master" control mentioned explicitly? It's the same as Level in each drive model, isn't it?

Axe-Edit doesn't show a Master control for the Colortone models, just Level.
 
yek said:
Added “Colortone Booster” model based on a Colorsound Power Booster (with added Master control).


Curious: why Is the "Master" control mentioned explicitly? It's the same as Level in each drive model, isn't it?

Axe-Edit doesn't show a Master control for the Colortone models, just Level.
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I haven’t tried the new firmware yet so I don’t know how everything is laid out, but I do know that the original pedals didn’t have a master volume and people modded their PB’s to add them. Maybe Cliff is just telling people in a roundabout way that the Level is the same thing as a master volume, but that’s just my guess.
 
yek said:
Added “Colortone Booster” model based on a Colorsound Power Booster (with added Master control).


Curious: why Is the "Master" control mentioned explicitly? It's the same as Level in each drive model, isn't it?

Axe-Edit doesn't show a Master control for the Colortone models, just Level.
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Probably because the gain knob is called "volume" in this pedal and it might create confusion with the block level which is the "master" output level and which the real pedal doesn't have.

As I mentioned in the fm9 fw thread though, this seems to have a lot more gain and output volume than the powerboost I owned in the past, I wonder if it's due to the different version (9v vs 18v) and/or if it was modeled with a different taper/scale on the gain and level controls.
 
squealie said:
Did something change with the Rat Distortion?
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I'm not sure, but it's one I use in a few of my everyday presets, and I thought it may have. I haven't had to change any of my settings, it just somehow sounds "Rattier".

Haven't read the whole thread yet, but just in case no-one said it yet... Big Muff Pi variants... Thank you, thank you, thank you Cliff and Fractal team! From memory, spot on. The Russian one just needs a few dead spots on the controls to capture the last of the vibe. Sounds just like my big old die-cast box of Soviet destruction. However, Ram's Head was one that I'd been waiting for, and it hasn't disappointed.

Liam
 
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simeon said:
yeah, i think i may have overstated it. they do all seem to sound very different though and the three knob tube drive was one of my favourites. i can't seem to get a good sound out of it now. i'm a bit frustrated by the drive blocks atm, i have to admit. i think i need to relearn which ones work for me and how to dial them in.
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The low end is definitely off on the new 4 knob tube driver in the Axe FXIII.

I have an original 4 knob tube driver I bought when they first came out. I compared it directly last night to the new version in the Axe FXIII. The 4 knob tube driver in the Axe FXIII has way more low end than mine. It has more low end with the bass on 0 as my real one has with the bass on 5 or 10. The 3 knob tube driver in the Axe FXIII actually sounded closer to my real 4 knob version.

I was able to get the 4 knob version in the Axe FXIII to sound very close to my vintage 4 knob Butler Tube Driver by setting the bass on 0, the treble on 2, dropping 100 in the EQ by 3db, and changing the low cut to 329.99.

If you notice Eric Johnson's settings on his tube driver, he has the bass and treble both on 0. Thats how I run my real one and it sounds great. I may sometimes run the bass on about 3 if am am playing at a lower volume.
 
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