Axe-Fx III Firmware 25.00 Public Beta (Cygnus X-3)

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unix-guy said:
I remembered Cliff saying ,,, "Turn the Power Tube Bias down. That controls the shape of the response. Fenders are notoriously biased cold whereas the models are biased warm)."
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Let's hope/try, because Input Trim has its cons ...
  • austinbuddy, 11/2017: If the Cleans-only bank is a little bit crunchy on your guitars, the best solution is to just dial back the input trim from 1.0 down to 0.50 and you’ll be good to go.
  • Cliff, 1/2017: Be sure to set your Input Trim properly. If you are using single-coil pickups then you want to increase the Input Trim. This will optimize the S/N Ratio. With a properly optimized SNR the Axe-Fx has less self-noise than your guitar.
So, I guess, if we would lower Input Trim for a single coil, we are hurting SNR for the kind of pickup we least want it to happen to...
 
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Brewce said:
Let's hope/try, because Input Trim has its cons ...
  • austinbuddy, 11/2017: If the Cleans-only bank is a little bit crunchy on your guitars, the best solution is to just dial back the input trim from 1.0 down to 0.50 and you’ll be good to go.
  • Cliff, 1/2017: Be sure to set your Input Trim properly. If you are using single-coil pickups then you want to increase the Input Trim. This will optimize the S/N Ratio. With a properly optimized SNR the Axe-Fx has less self-noise than your guitar.
So, I guess, if we would lower Input Trim for a single coil, we are hurting SNR for the kind of pickup we least want it to happen to...
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These posts (here and here) are in the context of Ax2 which I'm not sure is the same scenario wrt to SNR. Also, tho there are no rules, I would not expect standard / common practice in Ax3 would be having to adjust / alter any incoming guitar signal (post A/D conversion) for optimal SNR performance and/or amp accuracy. I kinda hear some wanting to adjust their guitar signal to match a static set of amp settings rather than adjusting amp settings to incoming guitar signal (to each their own, but the former seems backwards to me).

Additionally, not sure, but Cliff's post might be referring to global input setting on Ax2 which is different from amp input trim and which, if he meant the global input setting on Ax2. has also changed between Ax2 and Ax3 (Ax2 had "Input" which some referred to as "Input Trim" at the time, and which is what's now named "A/D Sensitivity" in Ax3, in a group of controls along with the new in Ax3 compared to Ax2: "Input Gain" control in the I/O menu).
 
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I don't see any information in the Axe-Fx III Firmware 25.00 Public Beta (Cygnus X-3) release notes or anywhere else about this firmware enabling the option for the MK I users to be able to change and/or cycle the colors of the logo on the front like on the MK II?

I guess this will be coming in maybe the Axe-Fx III Firmware 26.00?

EDIT - (ridiculous April 1st comment above)
 
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Scott333 said:
I don't see any information in the Axe-Fx III Firmware 25.00 Public Beta (Cygnus X-3) release notes or anywhere else about this firmware enabling the option for the MK I users to be able to change and/or cycle the colors of the logo on the front like on the MK II?

I guess this will be coming in maybe the Axe-Fx III Firmware 26.00?
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No it's not possible, by hardware limitations
 
Josetxu said:
And before anyone asks: I've played and owned a lot of them (vintage and modern ones). My main amp since 15 years ago is a brown panel vibroverb replica and have a lot more clean headroom than most modeled fenders even with my Les Paul (Duncan Antiquity)
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Unless you have played Cliff's amp, you are comparing apples to oranges to put it mildly. The component value tolerances in those amps was not remotely mil-spec, probably the same person didn't wire up both amps, tubes were different, room humidity/temperature for operating the amps were different.

I have never found 2 hand built vintage amps of the same kind to sound the same when copying knob positions.

If you have, that's amazing.
 
pauly said:
Hi rummellh
TGF is probably not the most reliable source. If Cliff himself posted that, then I stand corrected. Otherwise, it’ll just be others speculating.

Thanks
Pauly
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Grace Black Reaction GIF by Hollyoaks
 
In my opinion it’s the best firmware yet!

I agree with the general opinion that the edge of breakup tones have improved considerably.

I tried to recreate John Frusciante‘s tone on „Californication“ in FW 24 and couldn’t quite nail it. If I got the distortion right, it was not bright enough. If I lowered the gain, the tone was too bright and so forth…

I tried the same on 25b and it was like a revelation. Tried the 1987x bright model and hit the tone on the spot. Tried the „1987x jumped“ for fun‘s sake and nailed it once again. It’s so much fun to go through all the great Plexi und Fender tones once again. I can stay on a single amp the whole night and still discover some inspiring new tones. In previous firmwares there were amps that I loved, amps that I liked and amps that weren’t my cup of tea. On 25b every single amp is great!

Thank you, Cliff for your continued strive for perfection!
 
dr bonkers said:
Unless you have played Cliff's amp, you are comparing apples to oranges to put it mildly. The component value tolerances in those amps was not remotely mil-spec, probably the same person didn't wire up both amps, tubes were different, room humidity/temperature for operating the amps were different.

I have never found 2 hand built vintage amps of the same kind to sound the same when copying knob positions.

If you have, that's amazing.
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that there are minor differences I agree, but when you play in a hot rod you play in a hot rod ...

With luck, brands offer regularity in their know-how and their products. They are not randomly made

in all politeness
 
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Brilliant update ! Thanks a lot for our amazing Fractal team!!!! You guys rules! Personally I don’t care how close the pots values are or if exact position on knobs from my real amps translate to exact positions on Axe FX! I just want to get my model react as close as possible to my real amps and this update is really good advance in this direction !!!!! One more time thanks you guys !!!!!
 
Josetxu said:
I always have had hat feeling with the Axe: fender amps start to break a lot earlier than the real ones.
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My experience does not match yours. We actually measure the amps and compare them to the models. The gain of an amp is an easily measured quantity and the models match the gains of our reference amps.

Now, our reference amps are always serviced before matching. Any resistors that are out of tolerance are replaced. Capacitors are replaced as needed and new tubes installed.

Old amps almost invariably have less gain than a freshly serviced amp. Tubes lose gain as they age. Resistors tend to increase in value as they age but this doesn't change the gain as much as the reduction in tube gain.

But if you feel differently please provide quantitative data to back up your assertions.
 
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I have original tweed Fenders, and they break up
almost immediately. I have original brown panel Fenders, they break up earlier than my original black panel Fenders.

The important bit is volume and room size. If the room is too small, it may be too loud to hear the grind. Even a Princeton is too loud in a typical room in a house. Put that amp in a large enough club, or outdoors, and you’ll hear the break up straight-away. I once used a 1966 Twin Reverb at an outdoor concert on the harbour in Uusikaupunki Finland. The breakup was early and beautiful.

In my experience, if I play a Fender model and put it through a solid-state amp and Fender speaker cab at the same loudness as the actual amp, they sound about as close as any two Fender amps compared to each other.
 
skydog said:
I have original tweed Fenders, and they break up
almost immediately. I have original brown panel Fenders, they break up earlier than my original black panel Fenders.

The important bit is volume and room size. If the room is too small, it may be too loud to hear the grind. Even a Princeton is too loud in a typical room in a house. Put that amp in a large enough club, or outdoors, and you’ll hear the break up straight-away. I once used a 1966 Twin Reverb at an outdoor concert on the harbour in Uusikaupunki Finland. The breakup was early and beautiful.

In my experience, if I play a Fender model and put it through a solid-state amp and Fender speaker cab at the same loudness as the actual amp, they sound about as close as any two Fender amps compared to each other.
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Btw, my amps are all self-serviced and maintained to original values as specified in the schematics.
 
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If my band commander model is breaking up faster than my actual band-master, given the way the fas input works, my first thought is to adjust the input trim to match.

I’m reminded of recent discussions on audio interfaces and where and how to set levels. Without reopening that can of worms, gain staging matters. And I appreciate the care with which fas attends to the full gain range. 🤙🏼
 
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