Axe-Fx Firmware Version 21.00 Release Candidate 2 (Beta 8)

Status
Not open for further replies.
Thomas Obester said:
exactly, BB pre is the correct boost for amps with tons of mids !
Click to expand...
I've been having great results with the Shimmer Drive on high gain stuff too. Gain at 0, tone at noon, level to taste (I like it around 1-2 o'clock). It's hotter than the 808 but not as flubby as the 808mod, TS9, etc. But I like wayyyy too much gain by most people's standards though. My ideal sound is the amp almost falling apart, lol
 
Thomas Obester said:
I was headbanging all the time without even reading the description like a dumbass 😅 🤘👌
sounds amazing in your hands !
for me and my guitar, jp2c doesn’t work somehow, dunno why :(
I much prefer C++ or triaxis LD2 yellow.
Click to expand...
The JP2C's knob ranges are a bit narrower and more in the ballpark when set to near noon IMHO. For example, I set USA lead (mk4) bass to 1 - 1.5, while I set the JP2C bass to 3-4. Try and see if it works for you.
 
the last time, I wondered why there were so many high gain amps in the axe where you had to put the bass so low. then I think that since the master was high, it's true that at high volume you have to lower the bass. in most of the heads that I had, I rarely put the bass at 1, that's why I was wondering.
 
jwa174900 said:
Cliff could you double check to PV 5150 Block letter lead amp? I know it is a very mid forward amp but it sure seems to me like it has too much honk to it. The JCM 800 has always had a lot of mids being a marshall but I find the PV has a lot more honk than any of the marshall amps. TIA
Click to expand...
Try EVH's settings, they work! :)
Even better with basketweave impedance curve and a good greenback IR:

1668636966374.png
 
FractalAudio said:
Provide an A/B recording with the real amp and I'll see if something is amiss. Otherwise it's just opinion.
Click to expand...
I used the same A/B method as the other FW21 amp/model comparisons. This is the 5150 block letter with BMT and Depth at 6. Presence on zero, and Master volume just below 2. The settings were mirrored on the model with MV at 1.8. To my ears, the amp has more/deeper low end and less mids in the 380-ish Hz and 800-900 Hz areas but I didn't have time to pinpoint exact frequency, level, and Q settings to get them more in line with each other. I hope this helps, and let me know if you need me to adjust anything and send again.

 
luckymethod said:
One is slightly more muffled and less aggressive than the other, i think it's the second segment after the first switch, which one is which? Just curious, they are both real close.
Click to expand...
On the Mark IV comparison, it went amp/model/amp/model. You'd probably hear similar differences comparing the real Rev A and Rev B versions, but that one was still pretty dang close.
 
GO CHIEFS ! said:
I doubt it, but will be sticking with my Mk 1 regardless.

:)
Click to expand...

It will be a while, especially if there will be all this graphical cab modeling. Imagine all the time needed for creating that.

But if taken to industry standard format compatibility then would ideally be called an "Axe FX Pro". But it should only have that title if there was a wordclock BNC coaxial connector as well an internally up-sampled rate at least at the output so we can connect to 88.2 or 96k equipment clocked properly to the DAW recording at that rate.

I know what the response to that will be - there is already clocking at the digital outputs. But unfortunately those of us clocking to a crystal clock via BNC connection would not find much consolation in that response.
 
Last edited:
My name is mud said:
the last time, I wondered why there were so many high gain amps in the axe where you had to put the bass so low. then I think that since the master was high, it's true that at high volume you have to lower the bass. in most of the heads that I had, I rarely put the bass at 1, that's why I was wondering.
Click to expand...
I’ve been cranking 100 to 200 watt amps to 10 for a while, and unfortunately I have the tinnitus to show for it. That’s why the AF3 is a godsend for me, amps on 10 sound with volume much less than 125dB. 100% the real amps all have a certain amount of increase in bass, some more than others, some have a crazy amount more. Pretty much all of them had too much bass for me when everything was on 10. It took a while for that to sink into my thick skull when I started using the AF3 at much lower volumes than a cranked plexi, and I always had way too much low end in my presets because I set the amps the same way.

My guess is that’s the #1 problem with people that crap on modellers. They don’t have enough tinnitus yet to realize that while we perceive louder as better, the stress of that much volume and the wall rattling that comes with it is just not useable for anyone that’s not playing Woodstock.

Everyone who has brought amp to my place to compare could only “win”, in their minds, when they blew the walls and out ears out. I let them do it for 30 seconds then I stop them and ask them how many situations and for long can they use that tone. The real answer, if they admit it, is about the same, 30 seconds, lol!
 
York Audio said:
I used the same A/B method as the other FW21 amp/model comparisons. This is the 5150 block letter with BMT and Depth at 6. Presence on zero, and Master volume just below 2. The settings were mirrored on the model with MV at 1.8. To my ears, the amp has more/deeper low end and less mids in the 380-ish Hz and 800-900 Hz areas but I didn't have time to pinpoint exact frequency, level, and Q settings to get them more in line with each other. I hope this helps, and let me know if you need me to adjust anything and send again.

Click to expand...


The tolerance of potentiometers is terrible. You cannot set the knobs exactly the same as a given amp and expect things to match perfectly. For example, with BMT at noon on our reference 5150 I have to set the model's bass control to around 4.5 and the treble to nearly 6 to match. This is because the bass and treble pots are not perfect in the real amp.

Do a search on potentiometer tolerance. End-to-end and center. You'll be amazed at just how poor consumer grade "quasi-log" pots are.

Our models assume the pots are "perfect" and exhibit the exact resistance as specified. I.e. if it's a 1M 10A pot then it will be exactly 100K with the wiper at mid rotation. In a real amp the end-to-end resistance is +/- 20% and the midpoint can be off another 20%. Do the math and you'll see why no two amps sound the same at the same knob settings and why the model will not necessarily match a particular amp at the same knob settings.

I assure you that our model is accurate. You may have to adjust the controls up or down as much as 20% to match a given amp. That's the nature of tolerance. Listening to the clip I would say turn the bass up to 7 or more, turn the treble and mid down a bit.
 
Last edited:
York Audio said:
I used the same A/B method as the other FW21 amp/model comparisons. This is the 5150 block letter with BMT and Depth at 6. Presence on zero, and Master volume just below 2. The settings were mirrored on the model with MV at 1.8. To my ears, the amp has more/deeper low end and less mids in the 380-ish Hz and 800-900 Hz areas but I didn't have time to pinpoint exact frequency, level, and Q settings to get them more in line with each other. I hope this helps, and let me know if you need me to adjust anything and send again.

Click to expand...

That sounds like amp, axe, amp, axe to me. IF that is correct it is what I hear from the axe model as well, it's close and maybe Cliffs amp is different, but is definitely different. What IR were you using?
 
jephjacques said:
I've been having great results with the Shimmer Drive on high gain stuff too. Gain at 0, tone at noon, level to taste (I like it around 1-2 o'clock). It's hotter than the 808 but not as flubby as the 808mod, TS9, etc. But I like wayyyy too much gain by most people's standards though. My ideal sound is the amp almost falling apart, lol
Click to expand...
Ya the Shimmer has been a fav since it came out.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top Bottom