My "educated guess" is that aircadet is from Australia, and since IM doesn't have the MFC price yet, it got the MFC from the Yahoo store... but he needs the EU power supply (240V 50Hz) and may be a plug adaptor.jnapo said:Please educate someone new here. Why is this even a question does the controller come with its own power supply?
For the sake of clarity the MFC has an AC power supply.jmpatrick said:The MFC comes with its own DC power supply
terry64 said:My "educated guess" is that aircadet is from Australia, and since IM doesn't have the MFC price yet, it got the MFC from the Yahoo store... but he needs the EU power supply (240V 50Hz) and may be a plug adaptor.jnapo said:Please educate someone new here. Why is this even a question does the controller come with its own power supply?
I think the question is interesting, it let me know the MFC is using a switching converter without opening the unitand it can be battery powered for a reasonable amount of time without looking all the other forums (thank you Robboman)
For the sake of clarity the MFC has an AC power supply.jmpatrick said:The MFC comes with its own DC power supply
terry64 said:My "educated guess" is that aircadet is from Australia, and since IM doesn't have the MFC price yet, it got the MFC from the Yahoo store... but he needs the EU power supply (240V 50Hz) and may be a plug adaptor.jnapo said:Please educate someone new here. Why is this even a question does the controller come with its own power supply?
I think the question is interesting, it let me know the MFC is using a switching converter without opening the unitand it can be battery powered for a reasonable amount of time without looking all the other forums (thank you Robboman)
For the sake of clarity the MFC has an AC power supply.jmpatrick said:The MFC comes with its own DC power supply
Are you sure you were measuring AC voltage and not DC voltage? (Though if that were the case, I would expect the meter to show 0, ~5.7, or an error.)Out of interest I measured the output voltage of the Fractal 9VAC 1000mA (UK) adapter that came with my MFC. It was reading about 11.3VAC output. I also tested another 9V AC/AC 1000mA adapter I have, and that one was reading about 12.2 VAC output. Does this mean they all generally put out way more tham 9VAC?
Hmm... I usually set my M&Ms to pretzel.I definately set my MM to measure VAC.
Out of interest I measured the output voltage of the Fractal 9VAC 1000mA (UK) adapter that came with my MFC. It was reading about 11.3VAC output. I also tested another 9V AC/AC 1000mA adapter I have, and that one was reading about 12.2 VAC output. Does this mean they all generally put out way more tham 9VAC? I have been using the Fractal one for ages, with no signs of trouble. Also I have used a generic 9VDC adapter (that actually does put out 9VDC) with no issues at all. I am no electrical expert, far from it, but It'd be nice to know what's considered 'safe' for use with the MFC.
"Wall wart" power supplies usually have pretty high impedence (as power supplies go). In other words, they eat up some of their own power, eating more of it as the load increases.Out of interest I measured the output voltage of the Fractal 9VAC 1000mA (UK) adapter that came with my MFC. It was reading about 11.3VAC output. I also tested another 9V AC/AC 1000mA adapter I have, and that one was reading about 12.2 VAC output. Does this mean they all generally put out way more tham 9VAC?
You are probably measuring peak AC voltages while real things are spec'ed in RMS (root mean square) voltages because that's more useful as it directly relates to power even with non sine wave signals. A good multimeter will measure "true-RMS" and optionally peak voltages. Cheaper ones only measure peak.
You measure 9 volts on your DC pack because there is only one voltage, peak and RMS are the same at DC, and even a cheap meter measures this right.
Get yourself a Fluke... Multimeter | Fluke 170 Series Digital Multimeters - Fluke 179, 177, 175 multimeters
Darryl
"Wall wart" power supplies usually have pretty high impedence (as power supplies go). In other words, they eat up some of their own power, eating more of it as the load increases.
With no load to drive, they put out more voltage than what they're rated for. As you start to draw current, the output voltage drops. When you reach the rated output current, the output voltage should (but doesn't always) drop to the rated voltage. Draw more power still, and the output voltage drops below the rated voltage.