Andy Eagle
Fractal Fanatic
I think this is the best outcome and I hope you come to like the new guitar as much as the old one.
This is what I love about the DynaCabs. I know some have not found them useful and I can sort of understand why. I find it the easiest way to dial in the tone especially when dealing with a recording situation. I find it the best way to get the guitar to cut right from the start and not having to rely so heavily on mixing EQ. You’re right, it can get a bit distracting from playing. I always liked the engineering aspect of music production so I don’t mind too much.I found myself really getting some great tones with this thing. @Sashman, the presets I'm creating are just four blocks: in, amp, cab, out. The only remotely interesting thing I'm doing, and I'm not sure it's remotely interesting, is taking two mics on the same DynaCab, the Dynamic 1 (SM57) in slot 1 and the Condenser (Soyuz) in slot 2, going to the Align tab on the front panel (for greater fine tuning than the large zoom of Axe-Edit), setting slot 2 to be further back until the pick attack appears to "smear," if you will, to a more midrangey sound, then I move both mics about halfway between cone and cap, adjusting the level of slot 2 between about -3 (less lows, more thick, juicy mids) to -9dB (mid scoop), where I tweak the mic alignment, position, mic 2 level, and amp controls until I get a soft but present attack with all the girth I want without being overbearing.
This is something as I grew as a player has become important. When I was younger the volume and tone pots were full on and didn’t give it any thought. The volume knob was for turning all the way down when I needed to talk to someone. Anyway, I’m very happy to read your experience so far. Also, I just read through the whole thread and I guess a couple days went by and totally missed the section where you informed that Schecter was replacing the guitar. Some good info in there from @Planta Fantasma & @Andy Eagle.I found that riding the volume and tone knobs is a great experience with the factory configuration
Don’t want to put any pressure on you, but would love to hear a quick clip of the guitar.
Seems riding vol and tone controls comes with maturity on guitar. Still learning here. Doesn't hurt that we have equipment that allows us to find those sweet spots!
Running a tap through is exactly what I was going to suggest. World Music don't have a plek but an old school good piece of wood with a good level works too . Plek really helps if something is not quite perfect then it can compensate automatically. I love what plek can do but a neck that works perfectly without it is probably going to be better in the long run.I'll just start by asking, is the Floyd BR2 nut that comes with the 1500 system in fact a non-standard nut?
The guitar came from the factory in tune with itself, but off from concert pitch, so today I unlocked the nut for the first time in order to set it up in tune. To my surprise, two out of three nut lock screws didn't want to come out at all. The asshole screwing them in at the factory would've had to have forced them in to get the nut to lock. I had to work way way way too hard to remove them, and upon further inspection, the threading inside the nut lock thread holes was stripped toward the bottom! Man, that's something to let go in QC. I owned a Korean made Schecter years ago that had a weird Floyd nut problem too, where it was installed just off center. Anyway, I removed this nut altogether to see about ordering a new one. It turns out it's a BR2; that's what's stamped at the bottom. I could find very little about this BR2 nut online, because I couldn't tell if a standard R2 would fit in its place. Then I found this thread:
https://online-discussion.com/Suhr/viewtopic.php?p=50774
According to this guy, a standard R2 will not fit in its place! So I considered this for a moment. About a month ago my wife and I installed a new ceiling fan, and in the process I learned what a tap and die set is, a tool set that allows you to rethread holes! To me that was an awesome discovery, and exceedingly helpful today. So I went to Ace Hardware and bought this 4MM x .7 plug tap, which is the same threading as the Floyd nut screw thread:
View attachment 136279
I screwed that slowly into the two holes that were stripped at the bottom, and it worked! I was able to get the screws to go in and out without any problems. Had I not known about this tool, I would not have been able to lock the nut.
In the process I finally removed the plastic film (revealing the awesome looking ridged pickguard), put nut sauce on the knife edges of the baseplate as well as the indention on the stud insert posts where the knife edge contacts the posts, and I'll tell you, this guitar is incredible. First of all, the intonation from the factory, from what I can tell from hitting fourths and fifths in adjacent and skipped strings all over, is fantastic. The tuning stability is incredible, from bending, trem diving, and pulling up with the trem. I'm thinking now that my first one may have had worn out springs by the end, because it wasn't as solid as this guitar is now. It's a reminder to me that if I ever find this guitar not quite returning to zero, I should first check the springs.
When I set up the guitar today, it was a piece of cake. I inserted a stack of business cards cut in half to stabilize the trem, set the fine tuners to the halfway point, put on new strings, tuned, stretched, locked the nut, removed the business cards, then unscrewed the spring claw screws until it was in tune just right. Man, so easy. What an experience. It was shockingly as easy as the most stable Floyded guitar I've had, the Washburn Steve Salas with the Floyd Speedloader.
In doing so, I found I must've accidentally moved the Floyd posts up a tad, because the action was now higher. No big deal, I just removed the bridge with the nut still locked, unscrewed the posts by hand to lower the action, and replaced the bridge. I got that action so low, and I found no fret problems. The guitar was nearly playing itself. It was really something else. It actually makes me wonder if World Musical Instruments is using PLEK machines at their factory, and that's why so many guitars these days come with exceptional fretwork.
I just found that playing the guitar today was easier than ever. It was a blast.
I'll post some pictures with the film off soon, with some recorded clips.
Not if it doesn't rase a burr of feel dry and wenge usually doesn't.Thanks @Andy Eagle for weighing in on the nut. It's amazing they could be made with any variance.
For the wenge neck, would you recommend applying any sort of oil or anything over time?
Kinda looks like a fresh crack?The guy who sent it to me had the pick guard off to put an EMG Mav 5 in, so I know he seen it before listing. sucks....
Guess what I found on my 2020 Super shredder that arrived today. Not sure if i am sending back. The guy who sent it to me had the pick guard off to put an EMG Mav 5 in, so I know he seen it before listing. sucks....
Thats my plan, fingers crossedPost lean and cracks are common when the wood is routed out too much in the design but that is unlikely to cause much of a problem. Run a bit of water thin super glue in the crack and all will be well.