Axe-Fx III 16.00 Beta 4 "Cygnus" Firmware - Public Beta

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It very well could be user error on my part and I haven't rolled back to v15 for a fresh comparison, but I'm also struggling with this model in Cygnus. I always play my real DS through a 16 ohm cab because I prefer the tone and feel compared to 4 or 8 ohms. It really is a very noticeable difference even when using the same type of speaker, it's a cool and sometimes annoying quirk of the amp. With the model I feel like I'm having to pull the bass back even lower and boost the treble or presence higher than in Ares. On the other hand, Cygnus is pretty much dead nuts on compared to my BE, AC20 and Ecstasy.
I will recheck the model. I did a cursory check this morning and nothing appeared amiss. When I get back to main HQ I will get the amp out and compare.

Remember there are two versions. Dirty Shirley 2 is the brighter of the two (has a 2.2nF cathode cap instead of 4.7nF).
 
Potential Bug? Activating the Bright Switch on the Friedman HBE V1 model really kills the sound. It almost adds like an Octave effect? Perhaps this is the the intended operation, since the Bright switch is on the Ideal page, not the Authentic page, but I wanted to bring it up. Preset attached.
Quoting myself because I'm getting the same fuzzy octave sound with the Bright Switch on the Atomica High. This time, the amp does have a Bright Switch (Edge Switch) on the Authentic tab.
 
I'm curious; how much of these things do you remember off the top of your head?

With my job, if I don't keep notes on 90% of the things that enter my head through the day, I'm lost by the end of the hour. I'd have to think that either you spend a LOT of time with these amps, to the point this stuff is ingrained in your memory, or you've got a list of notes you can refer back to. Regardless, I'm always fascinated by guys like you, Friedman, Egnater, Suhr, etc discuss this stuff as common knowledge. I'm dying to get into an electronics class so I understand it more.
Read through the Tech Notes at the top of the forum. There is a lot of interesting information in their brain dumps put out there to help us understand Fractal's collective madness. Also the Wiki is chockfull of great information.

You can bookmark pages for faster reference, or periodically read through them because each time you'll understand more and more.
 
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You learn something new every day.
Turn down the Preamp Bias Excursion to reduce it.

The problem with those "Mid Stage Drive" designs using a Plexi drive network is that if you bypass the drive pot with a cap (bright cap) you also bypass any grid stoppage and the next stage goes into blocking distortion very easily. There's essentially a straight shot into the grid for all the high frequencies. Friedman probably realized this and that's why there's no bright cap on the BE as the BE is very similar to the Atomica.

Dumbles, etc. have the "Overdrive" control mid stage but don't have any bypass caps and also have an additional grid stopper.
 
I was just playing one on my guitars that in FW15 was A microphonic screechy good luck gating the damn thing, and in FW16, it's completely fine, and less feedback noise too, and I'm playing through a Marshall Full stack, 2 Straight fronts, A 1960B and 1960BV on top, just really proud TBH to have a Marshall Full Stack, PRS Custom 22 goldtop with my AXE FX 3 making it all sound like pure Awesome, thank you Very Much Cliff!
 
Also note that the Axe Fx knobs are 0-10 where some real amps may be 0-11 or 0-12. So the "numbers" might not match but the full range of the knobs is equivalent.
Somewhere in the WIKI is a conversion chart to convert the more common schemes to the Axe's standard 0-10 range....
 
I will recheck the model. I did a cursory check this morning and nothing appeared amiss. When I get back to main HQ I will get the amp out and compare.

Remember there are two versions. Dirty Shirley 2 is the brighter of the two (has a 2.2nF cathode cap instead of 4.7nF).
Thanks! Mine is a fairly early one, but it sounds closest to the regular Dirty Shirley model and virtually identical to my Twin Sister with the bright switch off. This evening I’m going to hook my DS up to a load box and A/B the real thing against Cygnus and Ares (on my FM3) just to make sure it's not all in my head.
 
I have purchased every black box that Professor Chase has devised and was always satisfied with the tones I was able to achieve. This software version on the III really does make me doubtful that I will ever purchase a tube amp again. I'm sure someone has commented on the secret sauce happening in the lower mids in the 69 previous pages, but I sure like what I'm hearing. The soft reset is a pain-in-the-arse, but worth it. Incidentally, it's far better to be called a chucklehead than a blue falcon (caw-caw). All you prior service members (particularly Army) know what I mean.
 
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They are very dark amp when used with the matching 16-ohm cabinet. The feedback is off the speaker jack (don't ask me why, doesn't make sense). This results in a lot of negative feedback at high frequencies which makes the sound dark. The amp is modeled assuming a 16-ohm load.

If you use them into an 8-ohm cabinet they're brighter. To simulate this lower the negative feedback by 1/sqrt(2). This results in a negative feedback value of 0.3.

I will recheck the model. I did a cursory check this morning and nothing appeared amiss. When I get back to main HQ I will get the amp out and compare.

Remember there are two versions. Dirty Shirley 2 is the brighter of the two (has a 2.2nF cathode cap instead of 4.7nF).
Very cool information there, I was not aware of that. Thanks, man.

Now this question is completely due to my ignorance on this, is there a way to model the 8 ohm load in the Axe III with a certain cabinet or setting on the amp block?
 
Just had a weird experience with 16.00b running through S/PDIF back into my interface. I was getting a lot of high-end noise and it sounded super hissy, I assumed it to be digital jitter noise. At first I thought it was my monitors, so I plugged in to my interface's headphones (18i20 3rd gen), noise was still present.

Swapped clock source between the interface and the axe, no change. Plugged my phones direct into the AxeFX, noise disappeared. Back into the interface, boom there's the noise.

Power-cycled both units, waiting 30+ seconds before turning each back on, no dice. At all times my interface showed that it had sync-lock with the Axe FX.

Finally downgraded the Axe firmware to 15.01. Noise completely disappeared, sound out of both headphone ports was identical. Then, upgrade again back to 16.00b and noise stayed gone.

Have no idea what could've caused it, and haven't seen it happen again yet. But at least I thought I'd put it on the Fractal radar. Will make another post if it happens again.
 
I've decided to do a little more digging in the amp block. Has changing Preamp Tube Type setting always produced the severe "POP"? I am bypassing the amp now when I change this parameter.
 
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