Tremolo and staying in tune

[2204JCM]

That comment was written by a scammer who has since been banned, and I'm 99% sure that his comment was generated using ChatGPT. I took the OP's post and input it into Chat GPT, which spat out a response that's almost identical to the post from "Landon."

Yeah, when it comes to guitars and amps I'll take on AI no problem.

 

[unix-guy]

That comment was written by a scammer who has since been banned, and I'm 99% sure that his comment was generated using ChatGPT. I took the OP's post and input it into Chat GPT, which spat out a response that's almost identical to the post from "Landon."

Looked robotic to me...

 

[Harm]

It sounds like you're experiencing some frustration with tuning stability, especially with non-locking trem systems. Suhr guitars are definitely high-quality instruments, but your concerns are valid given your past experiences. Here are a few points to consider:

1. Set-Up and Maintenance: Proper setup is crucial. Make sure the guitar is set up by a professional who understands your playing style and the specific demands you place on the tremolo system. Sometimes, minor adjustments in the setup can make a significant difference.
2. Nut and Bridge: Ensure that the nut is properly cut and lubricated, and the bridge is functioning smoothly. Binding at the nut is a common issue that can affect tuning stability.
3. Tuning Stability Techniques: There are techniques that can help with tuning stability. For instance, after using the tremolo, you can do a gentle pull-up to help the strings return to pitch.
4. String Trees and Retainers: Adding or adjusting string trees or retainers can help improve the angle and tension of the strings, which can contribute to better tuning stability.
5. Quality of Components: High-quality components, like those used in Suhr guitars, do generally contribute to better tuning stability.
6. Consider Locking Systems: If tuning stability with a non-locking tremolo continues to be a significant issue, you might want to reconsider a guitar with a locking tremolo system, even if it's not your first choice aesthetically or in terms of feel.

From my experience, brands like PRS (Paul Reed Smith) and some high-end Ibanez models are known for having non-locking tremolo systems that can hold tuning well with proper setup and care.

Ultimately, it might also be worth consulting directly with a luthier who has specific experience with high-end guitars and tremolo systems to get personalized advice and setup recommendations.

Hope this helps, and best of luck finding the perfect guitar!

Cheers!

Thank you! I'll check the string trees and the bridge (trem) I have them mounted flat, so the little pull is not an option. I went the luthier way but without much luck. I lubed the nut, used graphite, filed them a tad wider, no luck. Tuners are locking. My ibanez guitars are either double locking or non-trem guitars. I keep envying the guys with a non locking system like Guthrie, Howe, Kotzen, Petrucci, Malmsteen, Hiland, Henderson, Timmons, that can use a trem and stay in tune enough. Admittedly when you watch the G3 concert Petrucci is the one tuning often, but still. I also understand that those touring musicians (not including the big boys with a crew) prefer a guitar without locking system for ease of use.

Oh, and I am a lefty. So the market is a bit more limited.

Kind regards, Harm

 

[ak301]

I'm a big trem user, not necessarily dive bombing all the time. But, way more than adding a bit of vibrato to a note or chord. If you're familiar with players like Alan Murphy, Steve Farris, Dan Huff it's that's sort of thing.

I've experimented a lot and found a formula that works for me.
I mainly play strats and over the past couple of years have got myself two fantastic Suhrs strats, a Classic S and and a Thornley Roughneck.

Coincidentally they have the same formula I use on my other strats, a two post trem, locking machine heads and no string trees.

Getting the string to come back to pitch is key. So the less that's there to possibly catch or restrict the string the better. Hence no string trees.
You need a good nut that doesn't catch the strings. If you lift the string out of the nut and there's no ping or click, your nut is fine.
I use Big Bends Nut Sauce on the nut and also on the bridge saddles. Some of my strats have the Wilkinson locking saddles on. They help, but a good nut I think is more important.
I make sure the fulcrum points on the bridge posts don't have any resistance and the spring tension is good - All my guitars are setup floating so I call pull the G string up a full tone. I use Rotosound 9-46 strings with two medium tension springs and that's the tension I like
New strings get a really thorough stretching in too.

These is what works for me.

It is worth noting that of my 6x strat style guitars with this setup there is a decent variation on a few of them how well the trem can be abused. I could spend more time getting them closer, but I like fact there's that difference.

I recently put a Vega Trem on a partscaster, that one on my profile pic - Wow! You really can go nuts with it.
The first gig I did with it after fitting it I did go daft and was dive bombing all over the place and it was impressive how well it holds tuning.
The trem arm they send is a bit like a golf club. It took a bit to get used to but it reminded me of a trem arm that cam with a Kahler two post trem I had once, and I think it helps with balancing things.
Making sure the nut is well lubricated and the strings thoroughly stretched in was very important. But, it was so good I'm ordering another one for another guitar. This one has a roller nut on so should be interesting to see how well that performs.

This video has some good tips on getting the nut right I found helpful

 

[Harm]

I'm a big trem user, not necessarily dive bombing all the time. But, way more than adding a bit of vibrato to a note or chord. If you're familiar with players like Alan Murphy, Steve Farris, Dan Huff it's that's sort of thing.

I've experimented a lot and found a formula that works for me.
I mainly play strats and over the past couple of years have got myself two fantastic Suhrs strats, a Classic S and and a Thornley Roughneck.

Coincidentally they have the same formula I use on my other strats, a two post trem, locking machine heads and no string trees.

Getting the string to come back to pitch is key. So the less that's there to possibly catch or restrict the string the better. Hence no string trees.
You need a good nut that doesn't catch the strings. If you lift the string out of the nut and there's no ping or click, your nut is fine.
I use Big Bends Nut Sauce on the nut and also on the bridge saddles. Some of my strats have the Wilkinson locking saddles on. They help, but a good nut I think is more important.
I make sure the fulcrum points on the bridge posts don't have any resistance and the spring tension is good - All my guitars are setup floating so I call pull the G string up a full tone. I use Rotosound 9-46 strings with two medium tension springs and that's the tension I like
New strings get a really thorough stretching in too.

These is what works for me.

It is worth noting that of my 6x strat style guitars with this setup there is a decent variation on a few of them how well the trem can be abused. I could spend more time getting them closer, but I like fact there's that difference.

I recently put a Vega Trem on a partscaster, that one on my profile pic - Wow! You really can go nuts with it.
The first gig I did with it after fitting it I did go daft and was dive bombing all over the place and it was impressive how well it holds tuning.
The trem arm they send is a bit like a golf club. It took a bit to get used to but it reminded me of a trem arm that cam with a Kahler two post trem I had once, and I think it helps with balancing things.
Making sure the nut is well lubricated and the strings thoroughly stretched in was very important. But, it was so good I'm ordering another one for another guitar. This one has a roller nut on so should be interesting to see how well that performs.

This video has some good tips on getting the nut right I found helpful

Thank you! A lot of useful info. I’ll go and work with it.

 

[Dr. Dipwad]

Looked robotic to me...

I kinda feel bad about that.

When I read it, my first thought was, "Hey, look, here's someone who types replies on complex topics with bullet-points and boldfaced headings and whatnot, and looks like he has to restrain himself from turning it into a dissertation. In short, he sounds like, well ...me."

I promise, I am not an AI. Just congenitally wordy.

 

[State of Epicicity]

I promise, I am not an AI. Just congenitally wordy.

I keep telling my wife that, but she remains unconvinced.

 

[Joe Bfstplk]

I play mostly PRS guitars, all core models, and as long as everything else is right (good strings broken in, nut in proper shape, intonation set right to start with) they stay in tune with the non-dive-bombing trem use I employ. A trem guitar is always a tuning challenge as any pressure on the strings, even strong grip chording, alters the bridge position and, as a result, tuning. It’s the nature of the beast. But properly set up, a PRS returns to functional tuning well. In other words, it still sounds in tune and fits with the band. I don’t check incessantly with a tuner.

Even my SE Standard 24 bridge stayed in tune nicely with mellow wiggling after the place I bought it from spent a little time/effort for a $15 nut tune-up.

Added the Wilkinson WLS130 locking saddles a while back, and it's even better. The saddles eliminate slippage over the saddle, and make it both stay in tune better and respond to wiggling the bar a bit more immediately.

The PRS bridge is really great. Thinking about a MannMade one for my Jazzbird, to replace the inexpensive Strat-style bridge....

 

[Joe Bfstplk]

I'm a big trem user, not necessarily dive bombing all the time. But, way more than adding a bit of vibrato to a note or chord. If you're familiar with players like Alan Murphy, Steve Farris, Dan Huff it's that's sort of thing.

I've experimented a lot and found a formula that works for me.
I mainly play strats and over the past couple of years have got myself two fantastic Suhrs strats, a Classic S and and a Thornley Roughneck.

Coincidentally they have the same formula I use on my other strats, a two post trem, locking machine heads and no string trees.

Getting the string to come back to pitch is key. So the less that's there to possibly catch or restrict the string the better. Hence no string trees.
You need a good nut that doesn't catch the strings. If you lift the string out of the nut and there's no ping or click, your nut is fine.
I use Big Bends Nut Sauce on the nut and also on the bridge saddles. Some of my strats have the Wilkinson locking saddles on. They help, but a good nut I think is more important.
I make sure the fulcrum points on the bridge posts don't have any resistance and the spring tension is good - All my guitars are setup floating so I call pull the G string up a full tone. I use Rotosound 9-46 strings with two medium tension springs and that's the tension I like
New strings get a really thorough stretching in too.

These is what works for me.

It is worth noting that of my 6x strat style guitars with this setup there is a decent variation on a few of them how well the trem can be abused. I could spend more time getting them closer, but I like fact there's that difference.

I recently put a Vega Trem on a partscaster, that one on my profile pic - Wow! You really can go nuts with it.
The first gig I did with it after fitting it I did go daft and was dive bombing all over the place and it was impressive how well it holds tuning.
The trem arm they send is a bit like a golf club. It took a bit to get used to but it reminded me of a trem arm that cam with a Kahler two post trem I had once, and I think it helps with balancing things.
Making sure the nut is well lubricated and the strings thoroughly stretched in was very important. But, it was so good I'm ordering another one for another guitar. This one has a roller nut on so should be interesting to see how well that performs.

This video has some good tips on getting the nut right I found helpful

Nice to see that I self-discovered Suhr's method for checking relief. Got to around 2:27 or so in the video and he starts describing perfectly how I do it.