No experience with either but generally 2-post trems return to pitch better.
Also, the FR has locking saddles which will be better for tuning stability.
Ah, my bad... I assumed vintage meant 6-screw.The Anderson Vintage Trem is a 2 point trem. At least on the S model I tried, I think the vintage is a better option, because tuning stability was completely perfect, and didn't require fine tuners. Also, because the one I tried was blocked for dive only, you could move to different tuning and still use the trem on the fly. Now that I'm writing about this in detail, I'm kicking myself for not having bought it!
Not really your bad, Man. Their terminology is confusing, since everyone else on earth refers to 6 point trems as vintage and 2 point trems as modern haha.Ah, my bad... I assumed vintage meant 6-screw.
Thanks for clarifying.
The newer ones actually still have circular cut outs in the baseplate like the old 1088/99. So they're not exactly the same as the GF one.If you mean the newest version of the two point; it works well enough but is actually quite a cheep OEM Korean unit that also GF sell for $42
2-Point-Hardened-Steel-Upgrade-Tremolo-System--Fits-USA-Stratreg_p_775.html
The version Anderson use is basically this with a logo.
I would go with the non fine tune Floyd.
@Andy Eagle That’s interesting, and disheartening, if it’s actually a cheap unit, i.e., if in this instance that means it’s made with an alloy that might wear more easily, on such an expensive guitar. In my experience, so many Floyds tend to wear easily enough not to return to zero, and many of their lines are also made in Korea, though I’m not skeptical about Korean guitar parts in general. I have not had good luck with Schaller made Floyds in the past either, except for the long defunct Speedloader, whose demise still infuriates me to remember (even then there was no tone, to my ears). Of course, blocking for Dive only will help regardless, with tone and. But with a similar setup, I’m curious to know the tonal difference between the TA 2 point and the non fine tune Floyd, because my inclination is always against the locking saddles / nut unless truly unavoidable.
For trems in general I’m most hopeful about the non-knife edge idea either of a Vega-Trem or Super-Vee Bladerunner (really I just like hyphenated names), not that I’d want to spend even more money to upgrade an Anderson. If I were buying an Anderson, a huge part of it for me would be the fact that every part would hopefully be well engineered and well made, but knife edges just seem like an idea that should’ve been abandoned as a beta idea across the board long ago.
How is the intonation travel range of the saddles on the Vega-Trem? I read on one forum that there’s not much room for travel.I have them all on different guitars. The old model Anderson vintage is fine but I like the non-fine tuner Floyd better
I have never bonded with the blade runner, I am about to put two up for sale as I have swapped them out for Vega's
In my opinion, the Vega is the best trem currently available
Also, what did you not like about the Bladerunner?I have them all on different guitars. The old model Anderson vintage is fine but I like the non-fine tuner Floyd better
I have never bonded with the blade runner, I am about to put two up for sale as I have swapped them out for Vega's
In my opinion, the Vega is the best trem currently available
How is the intonation travel range of the saddles on the Vega-Trem? I read on one forum that there’s not much room for travel.
Also, what did you not like about the Bladerunner?
I don’t think it does imply anything, really. I know they were using cheaper alloys at some point that wore more easily on the posts and baseplate knife edges, but I’ve had the same problem with the German made ones. I thank a low quality part is tied to a specific factory in a country, not to the country of origin. And some really fantastic lutherie in general comes out of Korea.Another thing to note.
The NFT Floyds are made in Korea. If that implies anything about quality then you have to consider it.