Tips for better tone with real cabs?

Jaekae

Member
Hello

Do anyone who use a matrix gt1000fx or similiar poweramp into a real cab, have any tips and tricks on how to get good distorted tones?

my setup is gibson LP-> axe fx2 -> matrix gt100fx ( with the volume level halfway according to instructions from matrix, and adjust room volume on the axe) into a suhr badger 1x12 cab loaded with scumback m75 ( or sometimes a mesa 2x12 with v30s)

but whatever i do it always sounds like theres a blanket over the cab, i want the sound to open up like a real amp with cab does.. is it possible?

i like the axe through my studio monitors but with a real cab it sound so fake :( unless i only play with clean tones which is ok on the cab
 
Did you disabled the cab block in your preset chain? Try without the cab block , and use eventualy a PEQ after the amp to adjust to taste.;)
 
I understand the issue. I use my Matrix and a 4x12 connected to OUTPUT 2 via the FX Loop block. I found the sound as-is to be a bit muffled, but a bit of subtle adjustment to the EQ (using the Global OUT2 EQ) and it was fixed. Sounds fabulous now.
 
Hello

Do anyone who use a matrix gt1000fx or similiar poweramp into a real cab, have any tips and tricks on how to get good distorted tones?

my setup is gibson LP-> axe fx2 -> matrix gt100fx ( with the volume level halfway according to instructions from matrix, and adjust room volume on the axe) into a suhr badger 1x12 cab loaded with scumback m75 ( or sometimes a mesa 2x12 with v30s)

but whatever i do it always sounds like theres a blanket over the cab, i want the sound to open up like a real amp with cab does.. is it possible?

i like the axe through my studio monitors but with a real cab it sound so fake :( unless i only play with clean tones which is ok on the cab

Didn't work out for me, but here are some tips to try from Matt and Matrix... Maybe you will achieve better results...

* Also bear in mind, this was many firmware's ago!

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Firstly, it is very important to start with a new patch for the Matrix. Dial one in for the Meda 2:90 / 2:20 and one for the Matrix. You won't get a patch that sounds great on both. As a general rule, tube power amps tend to add more bottom end and some extra "sizzle".

So on to some tweaking.
In the amp block there's a very important page that deals with Speaker Resonance (Spkr tab), normally this is set to a default 95hz but shifting the Low Freq to 110 or even 120hz will give you a big lift in the bottom end. Raise the Low Res value for extra effect. You can also do the same with the high frequency to add some sizzle or take away. Again, just alter the res value. The same goes for the mids. These controls interact with how the virtual poweramp of the sim reacts with the speaker.

The other "go to" tweak for getting a bit of extra warmth is to raise the Depth value (page 2 of the amp controls). This value is set to 250hz in the ADV parameters tab which again can be altered to give a little less "wool" if needed. Raising the depth value will raise the warmth centered around that default 250hz frequency.

Master volume on the amp controls can play a part as well. A common error is to crank up the master to increase volume in the patch but this function is best left to the Level control. A master volume too high on some amps can lessen the effect of some EQ controls (tends to be more modern amps) and values of about 4 to 5 are best suited. Worth keeping in mind sometimes.

In the ADV parameter of the amp block the a a couple of useful things to check. One is Low Cut Freq and High Cut Freq. High cut can be useful for dialling out some harsh top end you may get. Bright cap value can also do this. Just lower the value and experiment. Depending on the amp type, low cut can add a little bottom end if the value is lowered (obviously!) but sometimes it will be at it's lowest default setting. (useful if the amp is a bit boomy in the lows- just raise!)

Also remember that Cliff put an EQ tab into the amp block. Don't be afraid to tweak (small amounts at first) to get the amp really dialled in. Speaking of EQ's, you can also use a parametric EQ block after the amp. This can be useful for a couple of things. Increasing lows, focussing or accentuating frequecies and taming highs. Set tabs 1 and 5 to blocking mode but set the frequencies to a broad spectrum, say 70hz and 8500hz (or higher or lower, whatever speakers you're using). Increasing the Q factor of the low freq will give a little hump in the bottom end thus boost low end. If you were using a bass heavy speaker (say a V30 and wanted to remove some of that you could also lower the Q slightly). On the highs you can lower the Q to give a little "smoothing" to the tail off of highs. Try bypassing the PEQ and compare it with the straight amp. Use the other frequecy tabs to add/cut any mids or highs to the amp sound just like a normal EQ pedal would. Or use a separate GEQ or PEQ block if needed in the chain if you want to switch it in and out.

Also remember that patches created at lower volumes will sound different when cranked (just like a real amp) so always try and tweak with as much volume as you can get away with.

Hope some of these tips help.
 
I use a Matrix GT1000 with my Zilla 2x12. It's a must to dial in at high volumes. I find with my Zilla that the sizzle is not apparent until you crank it a bit. I'd assume that's the same with most cabs.

Also remember different cabs sound drastically different so it could be that you have quite a dark cab.
 
I prefer using my Mesa Boogie 2 90. I think the Matrix works better with a full range speakers or to power the Fx side in a guitar rig in my opinion. But it also depends on the speakers you're using. With the Matrix you need brighter speakers because it doesn't have presence control and the amp sounds a bit darker to my ears. With the Mesa 2 90 I barely turn the presence to 3 because the it sounds brighter to me.
 
I prefer using my Mesa Boogie 2 90. I think the Matrix works better with a full range speakers or to power the Fx side in a guitar rig in my opinion. But it also depends on the speakers you're using. With the Matrix you need brighter speakers because it doesn't have presence control and the amp sounds a bit darker to my ears. With the Mesa 2 90 I barely turn the presence to 3 because the it sounds brighter to me.

It's easy enough I find, to do all that EQ'ing in the Axe-FX itself, so then the signal hitting the power amp is correct already. There's no real need for more tone-tweaking options on the power amp itself. If there was, that would kind of defeat the object of the Axe-FX altogether.
 
I use these setups..
AxeII -> GT1000FX poweramp -> pair of Marshall 4x12 cabs
and
AxeII -> Marshall 8008 poweramp -> pair of Marshall 4x12 cabs

my 'live' presets are copies of my 'studio' presets that have been re-dialled for high volume through the 4x12 cabs..
these 'live' presets have no cab block
 
Don't forget that because it's a real cab the higher volume the more low end you get. Well in my experience with my GT800FX.
 
It's easy enough I find, to do all that EQ'ing in the Axe-FX itself, so then the signal hitting the power amp is correct already. There's no real need for more tone-tweaking options on the power amp itself. If there was, that would kind of defeat the object of the Axe-FX altogether.

There are no absolutes when it comes to getting a tone. I use the presence controls to make up the difference between different speakers that I use. The presence control in my Mesa 2 99 ads highs in a way that the main eq in the utility page can't do. I use many different cabs with 8 sets of different Scumback speaker models in a bunch of 4 x 12 or 2 x 12 that I use depending how big the gig is.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I play through studio monitors and not real cabs, so this tip might not help in your situation.

When things sound a little muffled on a patch, I try turning up the Bright control on the first page of the Amp block. I find turning it up just a little (less than 0.100) will open the tone up and give it the clarity I want without adding very much actual brightness. In fact, I think of this control as "Clarity" and not Bright, at least in small doses.
 
Post a patch?

I use the GT1000 into a Zilla 2x12 (one V30 and one Creamback). For home/low level use I use OP2 and have the EQ curve tweeked - boosts of up to around 2 db in the lows and highs. Live/high volume I dont need that.

I also do some minor tuning elsewhere. Transformer match, presence/depth (dynamic usually) and occasionally bright cap value. I have a couple of patches that I have pretty much matched to my Fender Machetes channels.
 
Hello

Do anyone who use a matrix gt1000fx or similiar poweramp into a real cab, have any tips and tricks on how to get good distorted tones?

my setup is gibson LP-> axe fx2 -> matrix gt100fx ( with the volume level halfway according to instructions from matrix, and adjust room volume on the axe) into a suhr badger 1x12 cab loaded with scumback m75 ( or sometimes a mesa 2x12 with v30s)

but whatever i do it always sounds like theres a blanket over the cab, i want the sound to open up like a real amp with cab does.. is it possible?

i like the axe through my studio monitors but with a real cab it sound so fake :( unless i only play with clean tones which is ok on the cab

Sounds like you have the cab block engaged. You need to bypass the cab block or disable it in the Global menu.
 
I understand the issue. I use my Matrix and a 4x12 connected to OUTPUT 2 via the FX Loop block. I found the sound as-is to be a bit muffled, but a bit of subtle adjustment to the EQ (using the Global OUT2 EQ) and it was fixed. Sounds fabulous now.

This is what I do. FX Loop before cab block to use OUT2 to my matrix. If there is any tonal tweaking needed, I have a Graphic #2 to adjust. This is the same thing as what Cliff said, it disengages the cab block.
If you don't need to use OUT1 for a direct to FOH, you can just leave off theca block altogether, however I want the flexibility without having to write more presets.It works for me. Can do either or both...which is what I do live.

Also, one MUST test presets at STAGE volume. Bedroom volume tones WILL NOT TRANSLATE to the stage. It's that simple. ALWAYS test at stage volume, before you are at the gig.
I just wait until everyone is out of the house and let it rip...then I can really decide if any additional EQing is called for.

Let us know what you find works for you. The box is actually hugely versatile and there are always many options to look into and choose from.
 
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