OrganicZed
Fractal Fanatic
Yeah, one of the guitars I intonated has jumbo frets and I took extra care not to bend the notes sharp. Also, I find that it helps to pick lightly because a strong pick attack will pull the note sharp as well.
Sorry but this is utter rubbish. It does not identify any issues with the guitar it is like just raising the action until it stops buzzing regardless of the cause. Too much relief play havoc with the geometry of what NEEDS to happen to make a guitar play well. This is Like having a Ferrari with the engine misfiring and because it still drives saying it is fine.Here another action setup method I found in a forum, called the "Biddlin" method. Makes sense too
Begin by setting the bridge height for frets 17-21(2) so that the strings play buzz free at the lowest possible height.
Start with low E. Lower the bass side until it buzzes, raise until clear. Check A and D raise slightly if needed to get clean notes. Then do the treble side. If you bend notes up here, try a few typical bends, to make sure they don't buzz out.
When all strings play clean go to the lower frets and neck relief. Play the high E string from fret 1 to fret 16, increasing relief (loosening trussrod) to relieve buzz or decreasing relief (tightening trussrod) to lower the string height. So tighten, by fractional turns, until it buzzes and back off until it doesn't. If you bend strings , do your typical bends to insure they don't buzz out. Once satisfied, check the other strings and make small adjustments as needed.
Once you have acceptable relief, i.e. no buzz and easy action, set your intonation and you're done.
This is the opposite order of most setup directions. It is based on performance and not measurements, hence, I don't take any. It works because the neck is immobile between frets 17 and 22. The trussrod only affects lower frets. By setting the upper end first, you know any buzzes are coming from too little relief. This method works for most guitars, with truss rods.
Not really because what is the point of setting your guitar up playing one way then as soon as you gig it it is out of tune because that's not how you actually play. It needs to be picked how you would normally and the bending strings because you can't get the pressure right is something you would need to fix in your playing anyway.
Suhr has stopped using BFTS quite a long time ago.
But there are Suhrs out there with it including one of mine.
Yes, of course. But it's like 10 years since they stopped using the BFTS. There are way more Suhrs without it than with it.
Well, in reality, he was talking about general guitar set up, not just for Suhr guitars & there are a lot of guitars out there with it. No biggie. I have the info I need so it's all good.
I could almost say that's just mean
Not really you have to judge it at tension and make a guesstimate on how much to turn it . If you are new to this start with an 1/8 ~ 1/4 turn put it all back and see. You will quite quickly learn how to judge the feel of how tight or loose the bar is.
He did say to pro and Troy can save you a LOT of time. It was years before I figured out I economy pick all the time if possible. It didn't occur to me until I tried to play easy repetitive riffs and kept tripping over them but I can play whole Yngwie pieces at tempo without too much trouble. Basically I have the same picking style as YJM and EJ and that makes their stuff just flow when you play it as long as you use the original fingerings.I could almost say that's just mean
Troy's stuff is for advanced guitarists trying to play as fast as humanly possible, not for a novice trying to get started.
I'm afraid I don't have a better reference for beginners though.
Do you wind your strings differently while you're doing this? I wouldn't expect to be able to reuse them if they have only a short bit around the post, like I usually do.
