Temple Audio / FM9 Build Project

DANG!!! Don't lose a finger!!!
That was my buddy drilling. He's got a workshop shed up where he lives and we spent a good 4-½ hours putting things together. He used the brace with the drill and held the enclosure against it. The metal drill bit went thru the CNC aluminum easily.

Just to clarify, it was the LoveMySwitches 1950BBS CNC Pro Aluminum enclosure we drilled for our circuit box, not the 1950BB as previously reported.

Looks nice!
Thanks, Joe, doing what I need to do to support the economic growth of this land of ours...🤪
 
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That looks great. Good job! Where there's a will, there's a way.
Thank you! My buddy, Bill, is a semi-pro (he receives pay for his part-time work) guitar tech/woodworker/luthier. He was paid for his parts and labor in gear barter (some electronics parts, a Korg tuner, and leather-tooled guitar strap, about $180 worth.) The difficult part was soldering in the connections, then wrapping them with electrical tape. The solution was to remove the AC/IEC jacks from the enclosure then reinsert them, and then add the wire nuts. Went together beautifully after that.

After arriving home, decided I needed to add a right angle CTN plug to my DC power adapter (the straight plug interfered with one of the external switches). So, with a multimeter and a spare Voodoo Lab Rt > power connector, I rewired the DC power adapter with a right angle CTN plug.

My only concern was to insure the plug was CTN, so after checking the 2 cut DC adapter wires polarity with the adapter plugged into a wall outlet (multimeter set for 0.0 VDC), the correct wire was identified at positive. That wire was connected to the sleeve lead wire, and the center core wire as negative. Soldered, shrink-wrapped, and electrical-taped tighter than a bug in a rug.
 
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1950BBS CNC Pro Aluminum Enclosure:

Access Hole to Be Widened:
vMPVEFf.jpg


Temple Audio Power Module Installed:
7Vag7NA.jpg


Widened Access Hole for IEC Plug:
DHKQ2DP.jpg


Drilled 1950BBS Enclosure to Be Filed Down to Accept AC & IEC Jacks:
RVU8l8r.jpg


Drilling Process:
FhmEZ73.jpg


Attached AC & IEC Jacks:
v0cYjbz.jpg


Pigtail Wiring for 2 120V 15A AC Jacks:
tmm6JUu.jpg


Wire Nuts Installed; Enclosure Attached to Duo 34 via Screws:
sklNrUp.jpg


Next 3 Images: Various Angled Images of Cables Plugged In:
C71QoEn.jpg

AfSi5Wb.jpg

iv7ZV4b.jpg


Enclosure Reopened to Check for Continuity, Cover Replaced, Board Powered Up:
O5rkV7x.jpg

Is the enclosure connected to ground or isolated from it? I would have thought that with a conductive enclosure it should be connected to ground, but I defer to the qualified electricians (which I am not!).
 
Is the enclosure connected to ground or isolated from it? I would have thought that with a conductive enclosure it should be connected to ground, but I defer to the qualified electricians (which I am not!).
TBH, that was concern of mine as well when we put the circuit box together. What I can tell you is that both of the AC 3-prong mains are grounded to the IEC ground, soldered with insulated lead wires that extend into the box cavity. Each of the hot, negative and ground of each outlet has soldered wires extending with wire leads. We simply pigtailed the hot, negative, and ground wires together with wire nuts. The box itself is isolated from electricity because no exposed wiring or solder touches the box.

As insurance, I asked a handyman licensed electrician friend if he could take a peek inside the box, just to make sure no electrical hazards existed. I sent him a pic of the pigtailed harness with the wire nuts installed, and he said it looked good, and a formal in-person inspection would not be necessary.
 
UPDATE:
Flor those who are building home kit projects that includes Temple Audio Modules, please post your questions regards specific modules separately so we can address your concerns individually. I don't think what comes out in the wash will be of benefit to us within this thread. Better to post a separate thread with your Temple Audio Module question.
 
UPDATE:

It took some doing, but I finally learned how to program presets into my StroboStomp HD tuner. Now, with a simply up/down of my value switch, I can access 3 of my main presets, my James Taylor offset sweetened tuning (SBJ), my DADGAD (DAD) and my standard EADGBE (STD).

There still remain over 130 separate guided and/or sweetened tunings within the StroboStomp; I just don't use most of those and would likely not need them for either practice or a gig.

But if I ever need add one of these to my preset list, I now know the process of doing so. I've also set up my StroboStomp so that it is true bypass; meaning, when the tuner is on, the screen is lit and the signal is muted. When the tuner is off, the screen goes dark and signal passes thru as unaltered signal.

One might think of this as a go-to effect whenever the FM9 tuner offsets are not being used for sweetened EADGBE electric guitar tuning. The StroboStomp James Taylor and DADGAD tunings are typically for putting acoustic signal thru the FM9 when FM9 offset tunings would not be what was needed.
 
I love the idea of mounting extra footswitches underneath the board. Is there a way to have two momentary switches connected to one of the pedal inputs (one switch tip, one switch ring), or does each of the switches require its own TRS connector?
 
I love the idea of mounting extra footswitches underneath the board. Is there a way to have two momentary switches connected to one of the pedal inputs (one switch tip, one switch ring), or does each of the switches require its own TRS connector?
The FM9 jacks only support a single switch per jack. Each one needs a TS connection although a TRS cable will still work.
 
1950BBS CNC Pro Aluminum Enclosure:
iCxRWDO.jpg


Access Hole to Be Widened:
vMPVEFf.jpg


Temple Audio Power Module Installed:
7Vag7NA.jpg


Widened Access Hole for IEC Plug:
DHKQ2DP.jpg


Drilled 1950BBS Enclosure to Be Filed Down to Accept AC & IEC Jacks:
RVU8l8r.jpg


Drilling Process:
FhmEZ73.jpg


Attached AC & IEC Jacks:
v0cYjbz.jpg


Pigtail Wiring for 2 120V 15A AC Jacks:
tmm6JUu.jpg


Wire Nuts Installed; Enclosure Attached to Duo 34 via Screws:
sklNrUp.jpg


Next 3 Images: Various Angled Images of Cables Plugged In:
C71QoEn.jpg

AfSi5Wb.jpg

iv7ZV4b.jpg


Enclosure Reopened to Check for Continuity, Cover Replaced, Board Powered Up:
O5rkV7x.jpg
Off topic but I am guessing you are using the Temple soft bag. I just recently bought the DUO 34 with the flight case and I had to take the feet off unfortunately. The lid would not close without them. I did add a few washers underneath the FM9 for a little clearance for the exhaust vent, but normally I mount directly to board with longer screws.
 
Off topic but I am guessing you are using the Temple soft bag. I just recently bought the DUO 34 with the flight case and I had to take the feet off unfortunately. The lid would not close without them. I did add a few washers underneath the FM9 for a little clearance for the exhaust vent, but normally I mount directly to board with longer screws.
Actually, I had ordered a Studio Slips gig bag for the TA Duo 34. The standard Temple Audio bag did not afford the same protection that the Studio Slips does. The SS bag allows plenty of room with the rubber feet on. You can even specify a little extra room in your build requirements before they commit to building your order. Not cheap...I think my SS bag was just over $250 insured and shipped...
 
Ah ok. Yea those bags are nice. I just knew I didn’t want to carry a bag so I went with the case since it rolls but it’s not light for sure.
 
Ah ok. Yea those bags are nice. I just knew I didn’t want to carry a bag so I went with the case since it rolls but it’s not light for sure.
Yup. Rolling cases are nice, too. I'm hoping that when I finally get around to gigging again, my rig will be a simple Rock 'n Roller cart (maybe) with accessories bag, FRFR108 (maybe), guitar gig bag, and Studio Slips Duo 34 bag.

Carrying all that may prove a bit weighty for my old frame, but I think if I can avoid the R n'R cart and FRFR, the weight problem will be minimized...

If necessary, the Rn'R cart can just about carry all I'd need...it's just a couple extra pieces of gear that adds to the backstage greenroom clutter prior to showtime...
 
Yup. Rolling cases are nice, too. I'm hoping that when I finally get around to gigging again, my rig will be a simple Rock 'n Roller cart (maybe) with accessories bag, FRFR108 (maybe), guitar gig bag, and Studio Slips Duo 34 bag.

Carrying all that may prove a bit weighty for my old frame, but I think if I can avoid the R n'R cart and FRFR, the weight problem will be minimized...

If necessary, the Rn'R cart can just about carry all I'd need...it's just a couple extra pieces of gear that adds to the backstage greenroom clutter prior to showtime...
Funny part is I end up complaining that I am adding weight when I too soon forget about carrying a pedalboard, a couple guitars, rolling rack with a 100w head in it, as well as a 4x12 lol. Now its just the pedalboard and a guitar. We are spoiled.
 
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