Swapping Out Rotary Encoder...

D

DJD100

Power User
Anyone done this?

Mine's been bad since about the 6 month point (it's over a year old I think, so no warranty etc). This Ultra's mostly been used in the studio with Axe Edit so it wasn't a huge issue until now (going to use the Axe live more). I have tried cleaning it a couple of times, it helped for a while though I need it to work while traveling, so, if anyone's done this R&R sound off...

It looks straight forward and the part is available via Mouser, though it's racked up now so I can't look in there. Any gotcha's regarding the R&R that I should know about (I'm familiar with pcb soldering and have good desoldering tools etc)?

Thanks...
 
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Have you already tried spraying some DeOxit into the pot by removing the knob cover and spraying it?
 
Yep, it's not under warranty I think?

Getting the part is easy enough as they did confirm the part number etc, I'm just wondering if anyone's actually done the R&R and if they have any pointers is all?

LMO said:
Have you checked to see if FAS will send a replacement part?
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Are you saying FAS wouldn't replace it, or you didn't ask because of being out of warranty? From what I've heard, it is worth asking.
 
I asked, but they thought it was out of warranty. The part is only like $6 or so, so not a big deal, just looking for any insight on getting to it to solder in the new one (mine's racked up and in use at the studio at the moment so I can't tear it apart right away)?

LMO said:
Are you saying FAS wouldn't replace it, or you didn't ask because of being out of warranty? From what I've heard, it is worth asking.
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I was sent a replacement by G66 because mine is broken too.
I was told that you have to take the front lid off, and then solder the encoder on three points.
 
Thanks Yek. Looking at pictures of the encoder it appears to have three solder points, and four mount/shield solder points, though I'm still wondering how much dis-assembly is required to get the encoder's pcb out enough to do the solder job etc.

yek said:
I was sent a replacement by G66 because mine is broken too.
I was told that you have to take the front lid off, and then solder the encoder on three points.
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DJD-
I need t do this too. If you give it a go, would you mind taking the time to photo the process and share you learning experience?
Cheers.
Jon
 
Sure, though it likely won't happen for a few weeks as I have to order it online, wait for shipping to CA, and then find the time etc, but I'll try to take some pics.

blueherdim7 said:
DJD-
I need t do this too. If you give it a go, would you mind taking the time to photo the process and share you learning experience?
Cheers.
Jon
Click to expand...
 
I'm interested in this, too. Mine is bonkers and acts like it's all hopped up on goofballs. It's a real pill. I'd like to wring it's neck but I doubt that would help.

I solder all the time, so as long as the disassembly is fairly reasonable I should be OK. What is the Mouser part number?
 
Mine's wierd, it'll suck on the drive mix param for example, then work better on another drive param, then intermittently work, then not work, blah, blah, blah. The part number is...

Bourns P/N "ECW1J-C24-BC0024L"

If you get to it first, please describe the disassembly, thanks.


Mark P. said:
I'm interested in this, too. Mine is bonkers and acts like it's all hopped up on goofballs. It's a real pill. I'd like to wring it's neck but I doubt that would help.

I solder all the time, so as long as the disassembly is fairly reasonable I should be OK. What is the Mouser part number?
Click to expand...
 
Whats the long term consensus on this issue? Is there any reason to beleive tht a new encoder will fix the problem for good or will the issue simply resurface after a while? Could it have been a defective batch of encoders that many people got? Curious minds want to know before we break out the desoldering tools.
 
Okay, I did it. Wouldn't recommend it to anyone who hasn't got a pro soldering iron, and steady hands.
Don't underestimate this. You need to remove screws in a tight area. You may need to desolder at both sides of the board, at 7 spots.
After doing this the display wouldn't show anything anymore. Luckily it was only a bit of solder residu. *sweat*
And no, I didn't make a video :)
 
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yek said:
Okay, I did it. Wouldn't recommend it to anyone who hasn't got a pro soldering iron, and steady hands.
Don't underestimate this. You need to remove screws in a tight area. You may need to desolder at both sides of the board.
After doing this the display wouldn't show anything anymore. Luckily it was only a bit of solder residu. *sweat*
And no, I didn't make a video :)
Click to expand...


You have balls of steel my friend!
 
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