Stupid idea that may work out!

F spaced Imperial , old school paf 8.5K ish a little under powered, I like 10/14K in the bridge. Clarity and enough to match a paf in the neck for volume.
That makes sense. I had a set of Imperials in a Les Paul and liked them for that use, but I I can see why you'd want more output for your build.
 
Is that a Pau Ferro fretboard?

I now have 3 guitars with Pau Ferro and quite like it aesthetically.
 
I can’t believe they’re even doing business after the reputation Ed left behind.

I always found it very odd that he’d go on his own site and rant about Ibanez relying on ghost builders, brag about his own builders could build a 10x better JEM than Ibanez and then show a bunch Roman-made JEM-knockoffs that looked like exact replicas of the JEMs.....and he never had a low supply of early JEM models, oddly enough. I would not be surprised in the least bit if there is more than one ”Ibanez JEM” floating out there that was made in Roman’s shop and sold as an Ibanez, either at the knowledge or without the knowledge of the customer.

And I’m surprised you were ever able to get Ibanez necks. Back in ‘98 I snapped my first RG neck and tried to buy a replacement 570 neck, they would only allow me to turn in the broken neck to receive a new one. And they wanted like $800 for an RG neck in 1998! By that time you could find used MIJ’s for $400 and it only cost me $200 to repair, so screw that!

I also tried getting a replacement neck for my JEM twice, as I broke the headstock twice and was just curious but I think Rich Harris quoted me $1300 each time. I’d rather just have one built at that point since mine’s a 90’s JEM neck and the profile has changed a bit over the years.
I used to be able to buy any Ibanez neck and the most expensive was about $300 no questions about what it was for.
 
I’m a sucker for a thin or no finish at all. I stripped an RG7620 in the 90’s and just the way it felt against my body after was a welcomed change to me. I also have an MIM Strat that seemed like it had 1/8” coat of poly on it, it was such a lifeless guitar. I stripped it all off and just sprayed one layer of primer and then painted it black, didn’t even bother coating it and it was a vast improvement, IMO.

I’ve never done any serious testing or A/B’ing, but just the way the body resonates differently after stripping a finish is enough of a change to convince me there’s a worthwhile benefit.
I stripped a Mex 70s strat a couple of weeks back and that was soooo thick.
 
It's actually just baked maple (hence the black dots). It's a B stock because the three pieces are all different colours .
Interesting as all 3 guitars I have with Pau Ferro fretboards have roasted Maple necks and they look very similar.

On my Suhr (before they replaced the neck) you almost couldn't tell it was different wood.
 
Found a more suitable bridge pickup, the Lollar is moving to the neck.FullSizeRender.jpg
Have to alter the shape of the legs to fit again.
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Now a cut a bit of foam.
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Yea,try it out now. Still waiting on a pot, I've got non left.
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F spaced neck?? oh well it will do for now.
 
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Sounding good, the 10.5K ish Tyler pickup is a good balance for volume and clarity with the Lollar now in the neck.
 
Pot arrived.
I can wire it up properly now.IMG_1622.jpg
I wanted to earth the switch without heating up the body.
IMG_1625.jpg

Using screened cable (vintage style in my case because I have it) you can screen the signal for almost its entire path without painting the cavities . I actually dislike the effect of copper foil, It seems to interfere with the signal in some way that is detrimental IMO. Anyway if you have wired your guitar like this with quality components and you have a noise problem you should be looking to solve that first and it won't be your guitar.
 
I would normally attach the pickup earths to the pot back but on this I don't want to cut the wire lengths in case the pickups get moved in to something else. They still indirectly all go to a single point though.
 
I'm going to put the strap buttons in the position Mayones use on the Duvell . Backplates, what colour? I only have cream and tortoise in stock. No I've found a bit of black and some pearl moto. Probably going to be black but tortoise may be good for a change. Opinions please?
 
Your probably right but I'm trying to be open to something a little different ,as long as it still looks ok.
 
Pot arrived.
I can wire it up properly now.View attachment 84860
I wanted to earth the switch without heating up the body.
View attachment 84861

Using screened cable (vintage style in my case because I have it) you can screen the signal for almost its entire path without painting the cavities . I actually dislike the effect of copper foil, It seems to interfere with the signal in some way that is detrimental IMO. Anyway if you have wired your guitar like this with quality components and you have a noise problem you should be looking to solve that first and it won't be your guitar.
Great idea - soldering ground to the lock washer. I NEVER would have thought of that.
 
What would be REALLY sweet would be wood matched to that killer transparent burst.
It's a great idea but I would have needed to have made them so they could be in situ for painting the burst. If I made them now they would never mach exactly and bug me forever. This guitar is a little rough and ready though and I don't want to be too bothered when it starts to look worn. It will quite quickly as it is super thin nitro.
 
Couch testing;
IMG_1627.jpg
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The frets still need their final polish. I never finish polish frets before trying it out in case fine adjustments are needed . I'm not a plek and string tension jigs are shit because push is not the same as pull from the head to the bridge. String tension finds all the weak points in the wood and they flex there. I can play the guitar find issues mark them and sort them out .
 
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