Some V.10 Thoughts and Tips

Great tips!

The R and L proximity in the cab block I have them at 5. Would you suggest lowering them or 5 is okay?

Proximity has no affect if there is no mic selected. Not sure if that's what you're referring to regarding the new Mix IRs.
 
As a pseudo serious audio engineer I'm a pseudo mic snob. Saying they are the "ideal combination of mic choice", doesn't mean a whole hell of a lot. What are the mic combinations then? Including the mic pres and eq? Is there a list, other than the accompanying photos?

They are the engineer/producer's personal preference. AFAIK, the actual mix is different for each IR and was left to the engineer's expertise.

Great tips!

The R and L proximity in the cab block I have them at 5. Would you suggest lowering them or 5 is okay?

Proximity has no affect if there is no mic selected. Not sure if that's what you're referring to regarding the new Mix IRs.

What Chris said. Proximity has no affect if you select "None" as your mic.
 
Thanks for this intro-tutorial. I just loaded V10 and adapted first my own patches, redoing amps & cab IR's, great sounds in there. Didn't yet notice the V2 mixIR's but will surely give it a try tomorrow. Sounds are really good and the few patches I have using two amps and cabs in parallel, sound absolutely crazy ! Nevertheless, I had some difficulties redialing in clean tones, and would be keen on your advice for clean tones (just right from the amp w.o artifacts) ?
 
Thanks for this intro-tutorial. I just loaded V10 and adapted first my own patches, redoing amps & cab IR's, great sounds in there. Didn't yet notice the V2 mixIR's but will surely give it a try tomorrow. Sounds are really good and the few patches I have using two amps and cabs in parallel, sound absolutely crazy ! Nevertheless, I had some difficulties redialing in clean tones, and would be keen on your advice for clean tones (just right from the amp w.o artifacts) ?

Explain 'artifacts' because I do not understand.

Cleans are just less gain on the drive and MV up. The MV on most clean amps defaults to 10; I just leave it there for most. I primarily use humbuckers, so my Drive settings are often around 1.5-3.0 or so depending on the amp. What amp/cab are you using with what sort of pickups/guitar?
 
Here's my take on v.10 just briefly.

I view things from this perspective: what has changed with V.10 is that you do not have to be a power user to dial in killer amp tones fast and easy; and for all the (deserved) focus on the improved amp modeling; the focus IMHO is more about accuracy with the amp modeling and less about "better". The biggest advance overall in terms of the results people can dial up is the new mixed IR's. But I'll get to that in a second.

IMHO, the key is this: there is a lot more 'detail' in the amp modeling for sure. Nonlinear aspects to how amps work; and the MIMIC process that essentially maps the modeling at *many* points of the circuit, instead of just comparing it as a single simple macro system. MIMIC allows the Axe-FX II in v.10 to accurately model an amp at the micro-level and takes into account the nonlinear and parasitic aspects - and the power supply modeling (AC) is a big component of that (*Pro tip: if you want a slicker idealized tone, change the power supply modeling to DC). These are parts of the 'added' bonus; but it didn't change the 'nature' of the amp modeling. The biggest difference overall was that MIMIC made the amp models *extremely* accurate to the actual physical amps modeled. That has a lot of implications; no longer are amp models 'idealized' versions; these are more dimensional and that leads, IMHO, to the real meat of the matter in V.10 that takes advantage of this enhanced and raw accuracy to the source amps: especially for the direct-to-FOH/FRFR guys.

The key with the Fractal in the direct-to-FOH/FRFR world was, is and will continue to be the cab IR. The mix IR's are the biggest - and this cannot be overstated - leap forward. The Axe-FX Standard, Ultra and II by design requires knowledge to dial it based on the amp; but now every control (including the Drive and Master Volume) match the range and taper of the original amps. Hugely important. What people in the past were fighting - and most power users were exploiting - were the ability to add your own IR's and mixing/Tone Matching them.

Enter v.10. The new mixed IR's from Fractal, and from the Own Hammer V2 IR's, are the big equalizer; it removes the actual 'issue' people had with getting professional amp tones fast and easy. Power users have mixed IR's and used Tone Match and advanced EQ for years; but a lot of people don't want to do that or don't understand it enough to harness it. Now? Drop in the new IR's from the Factory offerings and... done. It is that simple. The Mix'd IR's are done in professional rooms, professional mic techniques, professional preamps all done by professional engineers and professional producers. That's the key. Always was. Now there are 35 pre-mixed, drop in and go IR's. Own Hammer is working on building their library - again, same basic concept behind those too. Professional room, professional engineer, professional mic techniques, proper pre-amps and EQ - all out of the box.

Even the Ultra and Standard - with a properly mixed *or* Tone Matched IR - can sound remarkable even with it's amp modeling engines if you use proper cab IR's.

Now, some tips. I'll be doing videos (including a "Rig Rundown" exploring how I set up my presets and WHY I do it) but these are some tips based on my experience.

If you have watched or read about my systematic approach to dialing up a direct-to-FOH/FRFR tone, that hasn't really changed. There's a video of it on YouTube and the link to that is in my signature. Here are some tips/thoughts/advice:


  • I am extremely partial to mixing IR's by making cab blocks stereo and panning both IR's to center because I run mono. If you run stereo, the default panning is fine. I love to take complimentary cab IR's and drop them in together - ie. the 412 Basketweave TV Mix and the 412 Basketweave AX Mix are Marshall heaven.
  • The new Mix IR's should be used with the Mic modeling set to "None" (they already have the mic's (and preamps/EQ) 'baked in'. There's no need to add a mic when using them.
  • The new Mix IR's play well with the other IR's in the factory choices *and* with major third party sources (Red Wire and Own Hammer). I am *exceptionally* fond of what Own Hammer V2 IR's are doing with and mixed with the new Mix IR's from Fractal.
  • There are now 100 user IR slots for your use: this is an incredibly powerful and practical capability
  • In the Amp block: the "Dynamic Presence" is IMHO the most useful, powerful and simple thing to use in order to make your "good" tones into "GREAT" tones in the direct-to-FOH/FRFR world. I am finding that with a LOT of my presets, just adding +1.0 to that control makes everything "POP" in an organic and dynamic manner.
  • If you are primarily a smaller near-field studio monitor or headphone player, do not overlook the "Thunk" parameters on the Dynamics tab in the amp block. Just a little (+0.50) is incredibly satisfying. You don't need much here; be careful. But just enough is a wonderful thing in that circumstance.
  • Transformer Match continues to be - and will most likely always be - of major importance to change the overall RESPONSE of an amp in an organic way, without altering your timbre. Lowering it 'opens up' a lot of amps; raising it for tighter gain is popular. Just try it.
  • The Character and Character Frequency in the Advanced tab are phenomenal ways to 'morph' or 'voice' your amp; it allows you a relatively simple way to be a 'mad amp designer' and create your own personal amp concoctions that you can just do by ear. It works both ways - cut it or boost it and then move the frequency parameter around where you want; then adjust the boost/cut to your personal taste. This is so mesmerizing; you can essentially do - on the fly in real time - something that would take an amp designer hours and hours of trial and error on the bench.
  • I prefer the more raw, unpolished aspects of v.10; but for a 'slicker' more polished amp tone, change the Power Supply Type from AC to DC.

Try some of those things and you'll find that you can dramatically tailor amps in ways only dreamed of in the past.

There are a LOT more things to play with for sure; but these are the things that really have made me smile a lot.

Have fun!
What he said. ;-) Nice Scotty. Very helpful as always.
 
thanks for the pointers Scott..
there's some interesting thoughts there that I'll be sure to noodle with pretty soon...

and to echo your comments...
matching the right cab with the right type of tone [almost irrespective of amp type] will make or break your tone..
 
hey Scott - just tried your lil' DC trick...
I totally get it...
even with hi-ish gain tones it seems to place an almost transparent coat of polish on there..
it seems to me like it's very subtle.. as sort of "seen but not heard" thing..

for my tastes I switched back to AC cos it sounded [maybe more like it 'felt'] a shade more aggressive..
which for Clarky's is a good thing..

I like running a pair of amps panned hard into a stereo cab [with the cabs panned hard]
here's what I came up with

amp1:X = 5153Blue -------> cab left = 4x12 Basketweave TV Mix
amp2:X = Herbert ch2+ --> cab right = 4x12 1960a GM12M (RW)

now here's a little supporting evidence...
when I tried my pal's real Herbert a few years back
I thought it sounded better through the 1960a [that just happened to be in the rehearsal studio] than it did through the Diezel cabs..
it just sounded killer..
and just now [when looking for a cab to go with the Herbert ch2+]..
I'm blindly flicking through options and not noting cab type, one seemed to be hitting the spot...
I'm thinking "ohhh... yeah... baby ! !.. likes this one I duzz"
and I look up... and there it is... the 1960a..

ahh... it's almost 1 in the morning....
so I guess it's time to continue upsetting the street... lmao..

EDIT: I seriously feel the need to add...

FW10 is just totally rockin'
adoring it ! !
 
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OK, I know it is for AMPs. I was more mentioning it for the anecdote. But it could well be a new feature.

I did'nt know of the AC LINE FREQ param. I missed it in the release notes. Thanks once more for your help. I'll go try it out.

Soon there will be a VARIAC in the AXE:
Variac.jpg


;)

Palygap,

I'm with you. Get some of that "brown" sound on each and every amp model. ;) Still have one of those bad boys on my bench.

Cheers,

Lee
 
hey Scott - just tried your lil' DC trick...
I totally get it...
even with hi-ish gain tones it seems to place an almost transparent coat of polish on there..
it seems to me like it's very subtle.. as sort of "seen but not heard" thing..

for my tastes I switched back to AC cos it sounded [maybe more like it 'felt'] a shade more aggressive..
which for Clarky's is a good thing..

I like running a pair of amps panned hard into a stereo cab [with the cabs panned hard]
here's what I came up with

amp1:X = 5153Blue -------> cab left = 4x12 Basketweave TV Mix
amp2:X = Herbert ch2+ --> cab right = 4x12 1960a GM12M (RW)

now here's a little supporting evidence...
when I tried my pal's real Herbert a few years back
I thought it sounded better through the 1960a [that just happened to be in the rehearsal studio] than it did through the Diezel cabs..
it just sounded killer..
and just now [when looking for a cab to go with the Herbert ch2+]..
I'm blindly flicking through options and not noting cab type, one seemed to be hitting the spot...
I'm thinking "ohhh... yeah... baby ! !.. likes this one I duzz"
and I look up... and there it is... the 1960a..

ahh... it's almost 1 in the morning....
so I guess it's time to continue upsetting the street... lmao..

EDIT: I seriously feel the need to add...

FW10 is just totally rockin'
adoring it ! !

Yep - the power supply modeling is subtle; but magnified if you are paying attention to it.

And the IR's chosen are the core of the whole direct-to-FOH/FRFR 'thang' for sure.
 
As a pseudo serious audio engineer I'm a pseudo mic snob. Saying they are the "ideal combination of mic choice", doesn't mean a whole hell of a lot. What are the mic combinations then? Including the mic pres and eq? Is there a list, other than the accompanying photos?

The IR sounds how it sounds. A list of gear won't and shouldn't change that :)
 
Thank you for the great information, Scott.

Just one question:
How can I convince my wife to not to travel anywhere on this year's holidays? I just want to stay home, tweaking and playing. :p
 
I have some problems making good presets with fw10, im making a friedman HBE patch right now using all your tips in this thread, trying to dial it for my near field studio monitors adam A7X, so could someone listen to this with monitor and see if it sound like it should or not? I dont like it, feels muffled and weird here.

Used the New basketweave TV and AX combo as cab with mic set to none, dynamic pres on +1 and thunk on +0,5, only other things i touched was the basic on the pre (mid high bass and bright switch) and the depth and presence knobs. and theres a medium room reverb on also

got a arm injury right now so my playing is very bad :)
 
I have some problems making good presets with fw10, im making a friedman HBE patch right now using all your tips in this thread, trying to dial it for my near field studio monitors adam A7X, so could someone listen to this with monitor and see if it sound like it should or not? I dont like it, feels muffled and weird here.

Used the New basketweave TV and AX combo as cab with mic set to none, dynamic pres on +1 and thunk on +0,5, only other things i touched was the basic on the pre (mid high bass and bright switch) and the depth and presence knobs. and theres a medium room reverb on also

got a arm injury right now so my playing is very bad :)


I'm going to guess you have the drive cranked up. There's just too much drive IMHO.

Here's how I set up the HBE (*I use Seymour Duncan JB humbuckers primarily). Thunk is at 0.00 with these settings for me:

 
I'm going to guess you have the drive cranked up. There's just too much drive IMHO.

Here's how I set up the HBE (*I use Seymour Duncan JB humbuckers primarily). Thunk is at 0.00 with these settings for me:
started over from the beginning with the HBE now, settings are closer to yours now and found a IR combo i liked better, its SLM m75(oh) paired with basket weave TV mix

i like alot of distortion, if you overlook bad playing is this tone starting to get on the right track now?
 
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