'New' Schaller S-Locks

I have had it happen on occasion, usually due to the nut backing off. A drop of lacquer or loctite on the threads helps prevent that....
I clamp the horseshoe and crank on the nut with a socket wrench. Snugs it up pretty good.
 
It's a good tip that I picked up here! Works great!

I use a box wrench on the U piece and a socket on the nut.
Never tried box-end on the horseshoe. I offer an Irwin clamp with padded jaws so it doesn't dig into the finish.
 
Another little trick a friend I know uses when attaching the strap buttons to the body: he splits a wooden match stick and places a sliver of it in the screw hole then attaches the button. It tightens the up the space considerably without resorting to glue or loc tite. If he removes the button, he will remove the match piece with a paper clip.
 
Question about the new "S" lockers. The strap pegs look exactly the same. I have the old ones on my fav Strat. Anyone know if they are the same?
I would rather not replace them but would like the extra length and all on top.
Thanks
 
Another little trick a friend I know uses when attaching the strap buttons to the body: he splits a wooden match stick and places a sliver of it in the screw hole then attaches the button. It tightens the up the space considerably without resorting to glue or loc tite. If he removes the button, he will remove the match piece with a paper clip.
I use a round wooden toothpick... Used to put a drop off wood glue on it but it isn't needed.
 
I use a round wooden toothpick... Used to put a drop off wood glue on it but it isn't needed.
I recommend using the glue. Matchsticks and toothpicks are made of soft wood. If your strap-button screw managed to chew up the hole, it'll eventually do the same to toothpicks.
 
I recommend using the glue. Matchsticks and toothpicks are made of soft wood. If your strap-button screw managed to chew up the hole, it'll eventually do the same to toothpicks.
Have not experienced the button screws chewing up the hole. I have experienced builders who use larger screw sizes. I find a shim to be preferable to glue or loc tite. A matchstick/toothpick is reversible. Once you put glue in a hole you can’t get it all out - short of re-drilling the hole.
 
I recommend using the glue. Matchsticks and toothpicks are made of soft wood. If your strap-button screw managed to chew up the hole, it'll eventually do the same to toothpicks.
I used it because the screws are smaller than the factory... No chewing involved.

Also, while soft for the size, I was pretty sure round wooden toothpicks are made of hardwood? However, I'm no toothpick tone-wood connisseuer ;)
 
Have not experienced the button screws chewing up the hole. I have experienced builders who use larger screw sizes. I find a shim to be preferable to glue or loc tite. A matchstick/toothpick is reversible. Once you put glue in a hole you can’t get it all out - short of re-drilling the hole.
Short of drilling out and doweling, I’ve found that hard wood (e.g., maple) shavings plus glue works best. Install the screw while the glue is still soft. I’m not sure why you’d want to “get it all out.”
 
I used it because the screws are smaller than the factory... No chewing involved.

Also, while soft for the size, I was pretty sure round wooden toothpicks are made of hardwood? However, I'm no toothpick tone-wood connisseuer ;)
There’s hardwood, and then there’s “hard wood.” Those two sets don’t completely overlap.
 
Short of drilling out and doweling, I’ve found that hard wood (e.g., maple) shavings plus glue works best. Install the screw while the glue is still soft. I’m not sure why you’d want to “get it all out.”
I would want it completely removed if I sell the guitar. When I sell guitars, I restore them to original condition. If you have added material to the hole and try to use a larger screw from the original strap button it could be too tight and potentially crack the body.
 
I would want it completely removed if I sell the guitar. When I sell guitars, I restore them to original condition. If you have added material to the hole and try to use a larger screw from the original strap button it could be too tight and potentially crack the body.
The screws are close enough in size that the original will cut its own grooves through the wood-shavings-and-glue that’s left behind. A little soap on the threads will do a lot to help that along.
 
You never stood while playing guitar for 14 years? :oops::eek: (mind blown)

I hate playing guitar while sitting down.

Nope but now I wish I did! I know I'm going to sound like Captain Obvious, but man, it's so much easier playing electric guitar standing up...It's much more comfortable and way more fun too!

I have short fingers, so I always thought it would too hard playing standing up. I also thought it would difficult to see the fret board, but I find, for the most part, I don't even need to look at the fret board. Good thing though, after all the years of practice and persistence, it's finally all coming together. Turns out, you can teach an old dog new tricks! Off to buy more straps! lol
 
Nope but now I wish I did! I know I'm going to sound like Captain Obvious, but man, it's so much easier playing electric guitar standing up...It's much more comfortable and way more fun too!

I have short fingers, so I always thought it would too hard playing standing up. I also thought it would difficult to see the fret board, but I find, for the most part, I don't even need to look at the fret board. Good thing though, after all the years of practice and persistence, it's finally all coming together. Turns out, you can teach an old dog new tricks! Off to buy more straps! lol
If you practice using a strap while sitting and standing, it should be the same... Assuming your strap is adjusted to keep the guitar off your lap when you sit. ;)
 
If you practice using a strap while sitting and standing, it should be the same... Assuming your strap is adjusted to keep the guitar off your lap when you sit. ;)

I did try using a strap sitting down but I could never seem to get comfortable.
 
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