Modeling Questions

James Freeman said:
Why "USA Lead" is not called "USA IV" like the two other Boogies?
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You might as well ask why:

  • Every Fender model is not prefixed with something.
  • Every Marshall model does not start with "Brit".
  • Every Mesa Model does not start with "USA".

Fractal's model naming is annoyingly inconsistent so models are all over the place in the list because you can't sort them any other way than alphabetically. The best you can do is use Axe-Edit to color code the models in some scheme you like.
 
James Freeman said:
When I turn off power amp modeling in the amp block, where does the signal is taken from, before the phase inverter or after?
"Master Volume becomes a simple volume" that implies that the PI is also removed but it could still have an effect?
Also, where is the 0.0dB position of the Presence knob when it is in shelving mode?
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It's taken before the phase inverter.

The manual is out of date. With power amp modeling off the Presence control does nothing.
 
James Freeman said:
That's an easy test; set the tonestack to 10, 0, 10, on a low gain amp like a plexi, then turn up the master, does the tone change or distort?
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Yeah, I'm not worried about it personally as I'm not using tube power amps and guitar cabs. IME Cliff's tube power amp modeling along with it's attendent speaker cab interaction is simply in a class by itself, and no other modeler or profiler comes close. Tube preamps are relatively easy to do, tube power sections into guitar cabs not so much.

Full Disclosure: Confirmed tube snob here with 13 or so tube amps and tube preamps, and I now use Cliff's amp modeling more often than not, not because of the obvious advantages of amp modeling over tube amps with regards to weight and SPL control, but because it sounds and feels great.

Welcome to the club James!
 
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I mean is there an internal automatic volume compensation (boost) when the Master is at a very low setting like 0.5 of 10.
Helix does that so I'm asking if Fractal also does, only Cliff can answer that question.
 
James Freeman said:
Not nescessarily, it only at the very low region of the MV like below 1.5, otherwise you would have to boost the output by like 50dB.
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I’m curious about this too - I do find I have to compensate with the output control quite a lot because I typically run the poweramps with lots of headroom.

AFAIK, some amps have more “sensible”/different MV tapers to the real amps, and a lot of the time the feel of adjusting the MV seems a bit different to the real thing even if they can produce the same sounds. I personally prefer when the tapers match the real amp, because I can use familiarity of the real thing as a reference point for dialling it in. I can understand why tapers have been changed to give them a smoother transition between tones but it obviously means you can’t rely on the experience you’ve had with the real thing as much.
 
MirrorProfiles said:
I’m curious about this too - I do find I have to compensate with the output control quite a lot because I typically run the poweramps with lots of headroom.

AFAIK, some amps have more “sensible”/different MV tapers to the real amps, and a lot of the time the feel of adjusting the MV seems a bit different to the real thing even if they can produce the same sounds. I personally prefer when the tapers match the real amp, because I can use familiarity of the real thing as a reference point for dialling it in. I can understand why tapers have been changed to give them a smoother transition between tones but it obviously means you can’t rely on the experience you’ve had with the real thing as much.
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You're not wrong, but personally I have real life experience with only a tiny fraction of the amps we get, so "reasonable" beats "realistic" for me, by a lot.
 
MirrorProfiles said:
I’m curious about this too - I do find I have to compensate with the output control quite a lot because I typically run the poweramps with lots of headroom.

AFAIK, some amps have more “sensible”/different MV tapers to the real amps, and a lot of the time the feel of adjusting the MV seems a bit different to the real thing even if they can produce the same sounds. I personally prefer when the tapers match the real amp, because I can use familiarity of the real thing as a reference point for dialling it in. I can understand why tapers have been changed to give them a smoother transition between tones but it obviously means you can’t rely on the experience you’ve had with the real thing as much.
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Having a consistent taper allows every amp to operate roughly the same for master volume settings, which takes out "need to know" stuff. And probably avoids users running into "Why doesn't my amp model sound good when I run its MV on 4? -That's because this model has a different taper and runs out of clean headroom already on 2" issues.
 
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