Finaldo said:
iaresee said:
Finaldo said:
My MPX-R1 is also in need of new switches. They all work, but they're quirky. I will be selling it (along with my MPX-G2) as soon as Fractal Audio sends me my MFC101
The pedal is put together in a really interesting manner. It's quite service-able. If anyone is interested I'll post the TACT switches that are drop-in replacements. I'm about to order some from Mouser...can't abide by the wonkiness anymore.
Sure, I'd like to see the info. I heard that it was a pain to replace the switches, with soldering and all. If I do anything to replace the switches, I'd like to upgrade them to something that won't just flake out again in a few years...
Unfortunately there's no replacement solution that can be done without soldering.
If you want to do a direct replacement of the TACT switches that are in there these Omron switches are a drop replacement, but rated for a slight higher pressure and more presses:
http://ca.mouser.com/Search/ProductDeta ... 3-B3W-4005
That's a 1:1 replacement.
If you wanted to drop the TACT switch approach I've measured and did a dry fit of a Carling momentary NO switch and it will fit in the enclosure and it *just* clears the board when it's on the standoffs. Just.
You can get generic NO momentaries that'll work from Small Bear for ~$4/switch:
http://www.smallbearelec.com/Detail.bok?no=672
Or if you want the super nice Carlings:
http://www.smallbearelec.com/Detail.bok?no=26
Either of those will work. They're the same dimensions on the below-surface portion.
Both of those, however, will stand up taller on the top of the unit. They need to be pushed right up against the inside of the top, as far as they can go, to clear the board. So you'll end up adding about 4 - 5mm of height to each switch. Not too bad.
You do need to solder them on to the board using some jumper wires. You can use the existing vias for the TACT switches though.
The downside to doing the Carling switch replacement (aside from the cost -- which would be about $64 if you use the cheap switches and $144 if you go with Carling switches), is you can't fully remove the board from the chasis without un-screwing every switch from the top of the board. When you take it apart you'll see how the existing switch setup is done: the switches you press are actually just plungers that go down a shaft and press the top of the TACT switch. A small spring returns it to upright when you release your foot. It means the chasis and the electronics board are complete separate.
Honestly the cost to replace the switches with anything other than TACT-type switches is so high it hardly seems worth it. I paid about $140 for my R1 so just that in switches...doesn't seem worth it. The TACT switches are substantially cheaper but will definitely fail again and, shipped to me in Canada, they're still a little high at $40.